LAUNDERING 


TT  

&  &5\     L  RAY  BALDERSTON 


32   172 


LAUNDERING 


BY 


L.  RAY  BALDERSTON 

Author  of  "Laundry  Manual" 

INSTRUCTOR  OF  LAUNDERING 

TEACHERS  COLLEGE,  COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY 

NEW  YORK  CITY 


THIRD  EDITION 
REVISED 


PUBLISHED  BY 

L.  R.  BALDERSTON 

1224  CHERRY  STREET,  PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 

PR/CE,  $135  POSTPAID 


Copyright  December,  1914,  by 
L.  RAY  BALDERSTON 


PREFACE 

(First  Edition) 

TN  preparing  this  second  book  on  the  art  and  science  of 
laundry  work,  the  author  has  tried  to  overcome  the  many 
shortcomings  of  the  little  book  called  "Laundry  Manual." 
Laundering  up  to  the  time  of  that  book  had  not  been  con- 
sidered worthy  of  a  text-book,  but  later  classes  caused  the 
demand.  Through  students  and  teachers,  together  with 
the  work  being  required  in  many  schools  and  colleges,  the 
science  has  advanced  to  such  an  extent  that  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  keep  abreast  of  the  chemical,  textile  and 
mechanical  side,  to  say  nothing  of  the  educational,  econom- 
ical and  practical  aspect  of  the  subject.  The  whole  view- 
point is  broad  and  still  growing  broader;  consequently  the 
new  book  is  starting  on  the  journey  which  it  is  hoped  the 
pioneer  has  prepared  for  it,  to  be  of  greater  service  to  stu- 
dent, teacher  and  housekeeper. 

The  author  wishes  to  thank  all  of  the  former  friends  who 
have  used  the  "Laundry  Manual,"  and  hopes  that  the  new 
book,  "Laundering,"  will  be  even  more  helpful,  because 
more  up  to  date.  Special  thanks  are  extended  to  all  who 
have  so  willingly  given  of  their  help  and  advice:  to  Miss 
M.  J.  McKeown,  for  the  ever-helpful  assistance  in  reading 
manuscript  and  writing  the  chapters  on  Bluing  and  Disin- 
fection; to  Dr.  B.  R.  Andrews,  for  reviewing  the  manu- 
script; to  Miss  S.  B.  Vanderbilt,  for  her  assistance  from 

(5) 


/f  n  er  r~  n  - 


6  Preface. 

the  chemistry  standpoint;  to  Mrs.  Ellen  McGowan,  for 
reviewing  the  work  on  textiles  and  stains;  to  Professor 
Emma  H.  Gunther,  whose  aid  in  compiling  has  made  the 
book  possible. 

To    students,    teachers    and   housekeepers   the   book    is 
dedicated. 

L.  RAY  BALDERSTON. 

1914. 


PREFACE  TO  THIRD  EDITION 

CCARCELY  any  subject  in  household  arts  has  made 
greater  strides  in  the  past  few  years  than  that  of  laun- 
dering. Great  changes  in  equipment  for  the  laundry  have 
been  made,  and  dependent  upon  these,  necessarily  changes 
in  methods  must  follow. 

Much  assistance  is  being  given  the  rural  worker  today, 
whether  she  is  a  housekeeper,  a  teacher,  or  a  county  agent. 
The  author  has  presented  some  suggestions  on  this  line  of 
work. 

L.  R.  B. 

1918. 


CONTENTS 


PART   I 

PAGE 

CHAPTER         I. — Fabrics 11 

CHAPTER        II. — Methods  of  Cleansing 16 

CHAPTER      III. — Stain  Removal 23 

CHAPTER       IV. — 'Washing  Agents 38 

Water 38 

Soap 39 

Starch 46 

Bluing 52 

Other  Cleansers 59 

CHAPTER        V. — Preparation  of  Wash 67 

CHAPTER      VI.— Process  of  Washing  White  Clothes 69 

CHAPTER     VII. — Table  Linen  and  Bed  Linen 75 

CHAPTER  VIII. — Body  Linen 80 

CHAPTER      IX.— Colored  Clothes ..:...  90 

CHAPTER        X.— Woolens 94 

CHAPTER      XL— Silks 1 00 

CHAPTER    XII. — Laces  and  Special  Cleaning 103 

CHAPTER  XIII. — Fumigation  and  Disinfection 112 

CHAPTER  XIV.— Dry  Cleaning 116 

PART  II 

CHAPTER     XV. — Equipment 121 

Domestic 121 

Institutional 153 

PART  III 

CHAPTER   XVI. — Methods 165 

Teaching  Suggestions 177 

Outline  for  Courses '189 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 194 

INDEX..                                                                                                   .  197 


(7) 


PART  I 


CHAPTER   I 
FABRICS 

Animal:  Silk. 
Wool. 

Vegetable:  Cotton. 
Linen. 

Those  who  would  do  the  most  delicate  work  and  undertake 
the  unusual  problems  in  the  laundry  should  make  a  study  of 
the  fabrics — -enough  to  know  their  special  characteristics  and 
their  reaction  to  changes  of  temperature  and  various 
chemicals. 

Animal  Fibers  are  more  easily  injured  than  vegetable  fibers. 
They  are  easily  scorched  and  usually  beyond  repair. 
Silk  stiffens  under  heat  and  then  breaks.  This  is  espe- 
cially seen  where  plaits  in  taffetas  are  pressed  in  the 
making  of  a  dress.  The  animal  fibers  are  affected  by 
alkalis,  the  effect  depending  on  the  kind,  the  strength, 
and  the  temperature  of  the  solution.  With  either  fabric, 
a  continued  application  of  most  alkalis  will  dissolve  the 
fiber.  In  either  case,  the  white  fiber  yellows.  Strong 
soda,  potash  or  chloride  of  lime  will  disintegrate  it. 

Wool  and  silk  are  animal  fibers.  The  wool  is  a  tubular 
fiber,  but  covered  with  tiny  overlapping  scales.  Under 
the  microscope  these  scales  look  like  fish  scales.  When 
the  fiber  or  cloth  is  wet,  it  expands  and  these  scales 
project  their  edges.  If  the  cloth  is  rubbed  while  wet, 
the  scales  interlock  and  the  fiber  shortens,  with  shrink- 
(11) 


1:2 


.'•:'••**":.*:  /.  ** -laundering. 


age  of  the  cloth  resulting.  This  same  interlocking  takes 
place  when  the  wool  is  subjected  to  great  heat — either 
water  or  iron — to  strong  alkali  solutions  or  soap,  and 
to  rubbing.  Dilute  acids  are  not  so  injurious  to  wools 
and  have  less  action  than  on  linens  and  cottons. 

Silk  is  a  fine,  lustrous  fiber,  more  delicate  than  wool. 
Under  the  microscope  it  is  a  double  fiber  before  boiling 
off,  but  after  that  the  filaments  are  separated  into  single 
structureless  threads  as  we  see  in  sewing  silk  and  silk 
material.  Silk  does  not  shrink  like  wool,  but  is  easily 
affected  by  alkalis,  by  concentrated  acids  and  by  heat 


WOOLEN  FIBERS. 

From  the  study  of  wool  and  silk  fiber  we  may  deter- 
mine the  rule  for  cleaning  woolen  and  silk  fabrics: 

Wash  in  lukewarm  water — about  110°  Fahr. 

Soap  used  should  be  free  from  excess  alkali  and  should 
be  in  solution. 

Stains  may  be  removed  if  dilute  acids,  which  do  not 
harm  either  fabric,  will  dissolve  the  stain.  This  only 
applies  to  white  goods. 

Chloride  of  lime  bleach  cannot  be  used  with  either 
fabric.  Borax  and  ammonia  may  be  used  with  either, 
as  they  are  both  such  mild  alkalis  that  they  do  little 


Fabrics. 


13 


or  no  harm — in  fact,  often  make  the  washing  easier,  as 
they  soften  the  water. 

Irons  should  be  warm  rather  than  hot,  and  the  fabric 
should  be  protected  from  the  iron  by  cheese-cloth  to 
prevent  scorching. 

Vegetable  Fibers. — Cotton  and  linen,  the  vegetable  fibers, 
are  tougher  than  the  animal  fibers,  and  hence  have 
greater  resistance  to  chemicals,  to  friction,  and  to  heat. 
The  cotton  fiber  is  like  a  ribbon  and  may  be  dis- 
tinguished from  linen  in  that  it  is  ribbon-like  and  inclined 


COTTON  FIBERS. 

to  twist,  while  linen  is  tubular  like  the  stem  of  a  plant 
and  the  broken  fiber  is  straight  or  brush-like  at  the  end. 
Linen  is  not  so  flexible  as  cotton  and  will  break  under 
too  heavy  repeated  pressure  on  the  folds,  as  is  shown 
in  the  cracking  of  table  linen  from  the  continual  foldings. 
Concentrated  acids  and  alkalis  will  in  time  destroy 
either  fiber,  but  dilute  acids  and  alkalis  can  be  used  to 
remove  stains  and  bleaches,  provided  the  contact  is 
not  long  and  at  too  high  a  temperature,  and  provided 
all  chemicals  be  either  neutralized  or  thoroughly  washed 
out.  In  either  case  the  chemical  must  be  rendered 
inactive. 


14  Laundering. 

With  this  knowledge  we  are  ready  to  formulate  a  rule 
for  washing  cottons  and  linens : 

Cotton  and  linen  may  have  stains  removed,  if  color 
plays  no  part,  by  using  either  dilute  alkali  or  dilute  acid. 

All  chemicals  must  be  thoroughly  removed. 

Soaps  may  come  in  direct  contact  with  fiber ;  a  slight 
amount  of  rubbing  will  not  injure  these  fabrics.  Cotton 
and  linen  can  be  bleached  if  one  is  careful  to  use  solutions 
of  proper  strength  and  if  the  chemical  is  neutralized  or 


LINEN  FIBERS. 


washed  out.    A  good  rule  may  be  used  here — many  short 
applications  are  better  than  any  one  long-continued  one. 

Cotton  and  linen  may  be  boiled  and  may  be  starched 
and  ironed  with  a  hot  iron  because  the  fibers  are  tough 
enough  to  allow  this  treatment. 

Mixed  Fabrics  and  Adulterations. — In  attempting  to  clean 
a  fabric  which  is  made  of  two  fabrics,  it  is  always  wise 
to  consider  the  fiber  that  is  the  most  delicate,  and  wash 
as  for  that  fabric.  For  instance,  a  garment  of  silk  and 


Fabrics.  15 

cotton  had  better  be  considered  as  all  silk.  Silk  and 
wool  is  an  easy  combination,  as  the  same  treatment 
suits  either. 

Imitation  fibers  are,  like  any  fraud,  hard  to  deal  with. 
Artificial  silk  may  not  resist  heat,  so  if  one  is  in  doubt 
as  to  the  purity  of  the  silk,  water  used  in  washing  should 
be  cool  rather  than  warm.  Imitation  brocades  are  only 
stamped  patterns,  and,  of  course,  disappear  with  the 
finishing  gloss  in  the  water.  Cheap  imitation  mercerized 
cloth  is  no  longer  shiny  after  leaving  the  wash  water, 
for  the  starch  or  dextrine  gloss  used  to  give  the  appear- 
ance of  mercerization  is  dissolved  in  the  water.  Real 
mercerization,  a  finish  which  is  given  to  the  individual 
fiber,  is  lasting  in  its  effect,  becaues  the  fiber  is  chemically 
mercerized  by  caustic  soda  while  under  tension. 


CHAPTER  II 

METHODS   OF  CLEANSING 
STAINS  AND  REMOVAL 

We  have  already  realized  the  need  of  knowing  the  character 
of  the  fabric  we  are  to  clean;  and  determining  that,  the  next 
we  must  know  is  the  character  of  the  soil  or  stain.  Soil  is 
any  material  foreign  to  the  fabric  in  its  pure  or  fresh  state. 

SOIL. 
A.  Organic. 

1.  Animal.     Stains  from 

1.  Meat  and  its  products.  6.  Body    (perspiration, 

2.  Blood.  oily  secretion,  body 

3.  Egg.  excretions,      dead 

4.  Milk  and  its  products.  skin). 

5.  Fats.  7.  Bacteria. 

2.  Vegetable.     Stains  from 

1.  Vegetables.  3.  Oils. 

2.  Fruits.  4.  Mildew. 


B.  Inorganic. 
Stains  from 

1.  Medicine. 

2.  Ink. 

3.  Paint. 

4.  Minerals. 

5.  Acids. 


6.  Alkalis. 

7.  Wagon   grease,   ma- 

chine oil. 

8.  Dust. 


(16) 


Methods  of  Cleansing.  17 

An  unknown  stain  is  not  always  easy  to  classify,  but 
with  experience  many  deductions  can  be  made  which  help 
towards  the  classification. 

Most  of  the  so-called  animal  stains  are  held  in  by  albumin 
or  fat.  The  albumin  type  of  stains  is  inclined  to  remain  on 
the  surface,  as  the  albumin  coagulates  quickly  and  prevents 
absorption — a  pronounced  example  is  an  egg  stain. 

A  fat  stain,  whether  animal  or  vegetable,  is  likely  to  make 
a  white  fabric  translucent,  often  has  an  odor,  and  with  dark 
silks  or  wools  is  made  more  noticeable  by  darkening  the 
fabric,  or  showing  the  dust  it  has  gathered. 

Meat  juice  stains  usually  combine  a  fat  with  albumin. 
Albumin  dissolves  in  cold  water,  and  fat  stains  may  be 
washed  out  with  cold  water  and  soap,  so  a  valuable  rule 
presents  itself:  When  in  doubt  always  use  cold  water.  It 
does  no  harm,  and  may  do  wonders.  Any  water  stain 
remaining  is  easily  steamed  out. 

Vegetable  stains  are  held  in  by  sugar  and  fats.  The 
sugar  causes  the  fabric  to  stiffen  and  glaze,  while  the  fat 
stain  is  neither  stiff  nor  glossy,  but  more  translucent.  Cold 
water  dissolves  sugar — hot  water  does  it  more  quickly,  so  if 
one  is  sure  it  is  fruit  juice  or  punch,  hot  water  is  a  most 
efficient  reagent.  Depend  on  cold  water  if  cream  or  any 
fat  is  mixed  with  the  sugar.  Again  we  may  repeat — When 
in  doubt  use  cold  water. 

The  third  type  of  stains  is  the  most  difficult  type  and 
requires  the  most  knowledge  and  care.  These  stains  are 
hard  because  at  the  outset,  owing  to  various  manufacturing 
formulae,  the  composition  of  any  of  the  materials  may  be 
unknown  and  complex.  For  example,  ink  may  give  an  acid 
or  alkaline  reaction,  and,  in  either  case,  its  opposing  chemical 
should  be  used.  Paints  may  have  all  kinds  of  pigments; 
medicine  may  be  a  mixture  of  many.  It  is  with  these  stains 


18  Laundering. 

that  chemical  and  textile  knowledge  reaps  the  greatest 
reward  and  where  patience  is  the  crowning  factor.  As  a 
class  these  stains  are  not  soluble  in  water.  So  chemical 
solvents  must  be  used  if  they  are  to  be  removed. 

Mildew  is  an  organic  or  vegetable  stain  of  a  fungi  nature. 
It  attacks  the  cloth  first  on  the  surface  and  if  found  early 
enough  may  be  washed  off  easily.  In  later  stages  it  may  be 
bleached  out  by  Javelle  water  or  by  a  solution  of  chloride  of 
lime,  or  by  potassium  permanganate  and  oxalic  acid.  A 
still  later  stage  will  be  found  impossible  to  remove  because 
it  has  attacked  the  fiber  to  the  point  of  destruction. 

The  fabrics  and  the  soil  have  been  classified;  it  remains 
to  classify  the  method  of  removal : 

By     1.  Solvents.  3.  Detergents. 

2.  Absorbents.  4.  Bleaches. 

Solvents. — The  discussion  on  soil  shows  us  that  water  is 
the  main  solvent.  Acids  and  alkalis  may  be  solvents 
because  they  convert  the  solid  substance  into  a  liquid, 
or  the  insoluble  into  the  soluble  state,  and  the  stain 
passes  out  with  the  wash  water  which  is  used  to  rinse 
out  the  chemical. 

Soap  increases  the  cleansing  power  of  water  in  cases 
of  grease  by  the  suds  it  produces  with  water. 

Other  solvents  are : 

1.  Alcohol.  4.  Ether. 

2.  Benzine.  5.  Oxalic  acid. 

3.  Chloroform.  6.  Hydrochloric  acid. 

Absorbents. — These  are  most  often  used  when  the  fabric 
is  not  to  be  wet,  either  because  it  is  new  or  because 
water  is  injurious  to  its  color  or  its  finish.  Absorbents 
act  like  blotting  paper  and  must  be  used  as  such,  bearing 


Methods  of  Cleansing.  19 

in  mind  that  as  fast  as  they  absorb  and  are  saturated, 
so  fast  must  new  absorbent  be  used.  A  list  of  absorb- 
ents follows : 

1.  White  blotting  paper.  5.  Fuller's  earth. 

2.  Unglazed  paper.  6.  Meals. 

3.  Unglazed  cloth.  7.  Magnesia. 

4.  Dry  starch. 

Apply  usually  on  both  sides,  so  the  absorption  may  be 
rapid.  The  above  absorbents  are  best  used  for  greases. 
Egg  for  example  would  not  be  removed  this  way. 

Detergents  are  solvents  because  most  prepared  detergents 
have  some  grease  solvents,  such  as  ether,  alcohol,  gaso- 
line. A  detergent  usually  is  a  soap  solution,  which 
cleans  by  its  lather,  combined  with  some  grease  solvent 
so  that  the  garment  is  quickly  cleansed. 

Any  cleansing  solution  containing  ether  or  chloroform 
may  fade  color,  as  some  dyes  dissolve  in  their  presence. 
It  is  wise,  therefore,  to  test  the  effect  of  a  detergent  on 
a  sample  of  the  goods  or  on  a  hidden  part  of  the  garment. 
Diluting  the  solution  may  be  all  that  is  necessary  to 
prevent  fading.  Again,  the  water  used  with  the  deter- 
gent may  leave  a  water  spot  or  ring;  this  is  easily 
removed  by  steam — see  chapters  on  Stains  and  Recipes. 

To  use  detergent:  Apply  cleaning  fluid  with  a  soft 
cloth  or  clean  sponge ;  or  preferably  use  a  piece  of  the 
same  goods  as  that  to  be  cleaned.  Place  the  same 
material  under  the  stain  and  keep  in  mind  the  fact  that 
the  detergent  cleans  by  dissolving,  and  consequently 
the  dirt  is  passing  to  the  absorbing  material  underneath . 
Therefore,  remember  this — that  the  under  t^iece  must 
be  changed  very  frequently.  The  reason  for  using 


20  Laundering. 

material  like  the  garment  for  cleaning  is  that  if  there 
is  any  bleeding  of  color  the  cleaning  cloth  will  add  color 
rather  than  subtract. 

Bleaches  may  be  called  the  heroic  cleaners,  and  for  that 
reason  are  accepted  and  used  as  the  last  alternative. 
Bleaches,  whether  used  .on  stained  white  goods,  or  on 
a  colored  fabric,  remove  color  by  oxidation;  therefore 
they  should  be  considered  only  in  connection  with  white 
clothing.  Most  effective  bleaches  are  oxygen  bearers; 
this  oxygen  in  the  presence  of  heat  or  moisture  is  set 
free  to  do  its  work  by  decolorizing.  Bleaching  should 
always  be  left  to  the  last,  as  at  no  time  is  it  justifiable 
to  use  strong  chemicals  when  sunlight,  soap  and  water, 
or  borax  will  do  the  work.  The  bleaching  should  be 
done  on  clean,  wet  fiber;  clean,  because  often  the 
washing  process  will  remove  the  stain;  wet,  because 
oxidation  or  bleaching  is  best  done  with  moisture. 
Dew  and  frost  furnish  naturally  the  moisture,  otherwise 
the  laundress  must  apply  moisture  by  sprinkling  the 
garment  before  laying  in  the  sun.  The  only  time  one 
should  consider  bleaching  colored  material  is  when  the 
colored  pattern  has  been  washed  and  has  faded  to  such 
a  degree  that  the  garment  would  look  better  if  all  trace 
of  color  were  removed. 
List  of  bleaches : 

1.  Sunlight  and  moisture.      8.  Potassium  perman- 

2.  Oxygen,  air,  ozone.  ganate  with  oxalic 

3.  Ammonia.  acid. 

4.  Borax.  9.  Hyposulphite        of 

5.  Sulphur.  soda. 

6.  Chloride  of  lime.  10.  Hydrogen  peroxide. 

7.  Oxalic  acid. 


Methods  of  Cleansing.  21 

The  first  two  in  the  list  we  may  call  nature's  bleaches 
and  may  consider  harmless  for  cotton  and  linen. 
Wools  and  silk  will  yellow  in  sunlight. 

Sunshine  is  the  simplest  method  of  bleaching  and  is  also 
the  safest.  To  bleach  with  sunshine,  the  garment 
should  be  washed  clean,  then  spread  while  wet  in  the 
sun.  The  sun,  together  with  the  oxygen  of  the  water, 
is  most  effective  in  its  work.  This  method  requires 
the  least  knowledge  and  the  most- time,  but  no  destruc- 
tion of  fiber  results.  Often  the  garments  are  spread 
in  the  dew.  This  dew  takes  the  place  of  sprinkling  the 
clothes.  With  either  process  we  are  dependent  upon 
the  oxygen  supplied  by  the  moisture. 

Borax  and  Ammonia  are  often  used  as  mild  bleaches.  They 
may  be  added  to  the  water  and  if  used  in  the  final  rinse, 
will  do  much  to  whiten  the  fabric.  Their  great  power 
is  as  a  solvent  of  grease  which  may  be  holding  the  soil 
in  the  fabric. 

Sulphur  may  be  used  to  bleach  woolens,  but  must  be  handled 
with  great  care,  as  its  burning  not  only  involves  the 
danger  of  fire,  but  sulphur  fumes  should  not  be  inhaled. 
A  large  barrel  or  box  out  of  doors  may  be  used  as  the 
bleach  room.  Sulphur  bleaching  indoors  is  not  advis- 
able. Stand  a  sulphur  candle  in  a  pan  of  water  in  the 
bottom  of  the  barrel,  suspend  a  number  of  strings  from 
each  side  of  the  barrel,  and  on  the  stretched  strings  lay 
the  clean,  wet  woolen  garment  (white,  of  course)  and 
let  the  fumes  from  the  burning  candle  pass  up  and 
through.  A  cover  over  the  top  will  make  the  process 
more  complete.  After  bleaching,  wash  to  remove 
sulphur  odor.  The  time  depends  on  degree  of  discolor- 


22  Laundering. 

ation  to  be  removed.  To  test,  remove  cover  of  barrel 
for  a  few  minutes  before  looking  in  and  then  examine. 
Re-cover  for  further  bleaching. 

Chloride  of  Lime  is  the  bleach  most  often  used  in  the 
laundry.  It  is  rarely  used  alone,  but  is  combined  with 
washing  soda,  the  combination  producing  Labarraque, 
more  commonly  called  Javelle.  Javelle  should  be  used 
as  a  perfectly  clear  liquid,  and  always  with  water. 
Heat  increases  its  bleaching  action,  which  is  due  to  the 
chlorine,  which  when  set  free  unites  with  water  and 
releases  oxygen,  the  real  bleach.  It  is  wrong  to  boil 
clothes  in  bleach,  because  under  high  temperature  the 
bleach  is  most  destructive  to  cotton  and  linen  fiber. 
A  good  bleaching  temperature  is  110°  F.  Javelle  must 
not  be  used  for  woolens  and  silks.  See  recipe  for 
Javelle,  page  25. 

Oxalic  Acid.     See  pages  26,  65. 

Potassium  Permanganate.    See  pages  26,  60. 

Hydrosulphite  of  Soda  and  Hydrogen  Peroxide  are  also 
oxidizing  agents,  the  former  being  especially  suited  for 
silks. 


CHAPTER   III 
METHOD   OF  REMOVING   STAINS 

Working  outfit  for  stain  work : 

1  dropper  for  each  chemical. 

1  cup. 

1  bowl. 

White  blotting  paper  or  cloth  the  color  of  fabric. 

Soft  cloth. 

Soft  brush. 

Chemical. 

Before  beginning  to  work  on  the  stain,  the  worker  must 
ask,  and  as  near  as  possible  decide,  these  questions: 
What  kind  of  fabric  is  stained  ? 
What  is  the  stain  ? 

In  both  cases  experience  helps  to  answer,  but  often  a 
third  element  is  present,  and  that  is  the  color  of  the  fabric. 
It  is  wise  to  test  a  bit  of  the  colored  fabric  by  using  a  sample 
of  the  goods,  some  inner  seam  or  underneath  part  of  the, 
garment,  and  in  that  way  test  the  action  of  the  reagent; 
and  that  test  having  been  made,  the  worker  or  owner  must 
decide  which  is  the  least  noticeable — the  stain  with  its 
color,  or  no  color  from  the  removal  of  the  stain.  Water 
rings  need  not  hinder,  for  if  they  are  all  that  remain  after 
the  stain  is  removed,  they  may  be  easily  and  quickly  removed 
by  steam. 

Removal  of  stains  on  white  cottons  and  linens  is,  compara- 
tively speaking,  a  known  quantity;  on  white  silks  and  wools 
it  is  harder  and  less  sure,  but  usually  worthy  of  trial.  On 
colors  there  is  always  a  risk,  always  need  of  much  care  and 

(23) 


24  Laundering. 

deftness,  always  the  use  of  dilute  solutions  and  very  rapid 
work.  Often  it  is  preferable  to  have  the  stain  removed; 
even  if  the  white  spot  remains,  it  may  be  retinted.  This 
retinting  can  be  done  with  water  colors  or  carefully  mixed 
dyes,  and  must  be  done  after  each  cleaning. 

Knowing  the  fabric  and  the  stain,  prepare  to  remove  the 
stain  by  spreading  stained  portion  over  a  bowl,  moisten  the 
stain  with  cold  water,  and  then  with  a  dropper  or  stirring 
rod  apply  the  right  reagent.  Follow  quickly  with  warm 
water,  not  hot,  and  keep  in  mind  that  many  short  applica- 
tions are  surer  and  safer  than  long-continued  use  of  chemi- 
cals without  rinsing. 

If  all  concentrated  chemicals  are  diluted  by  an  equal 
quantity  of  water,  they  are  strong  enough  to  dissolve  stains 
and  need  not  harm  the  fabric.  (See  Recipes.) 

When  the  stain  has  disappeared,  one  of  two  things  must  be 
done  and  done  well:  Either  wash  the  spot  treated  and  its 
surroundings  until  the  chemical  is  entirely  removed,  or 
neutralize  the  chemical  by  an  opposing  chemical,  and  then 
rinse.  After  removing  stains,  wash  the  spot  with  soap  and 
water  and  then  rinse. 

In  some  cases  two  chemicals  are  needed;  one  follows  the 
other  in  right  rotation  as  prescribed  in  stain-removing  list, 
but  it  is  always  wise  to  wash  between  reagents  with  clear 
warm — not  hot — water.  Do  not  use  bleaches  unless  as  a 
last  effort,  and  do  not  use  on  colors — remember  that  the 
word  bleach  means  no  color. 

Ink  stains  on  white  woolens  may  be  removed  by  the 
oxalic  acid  and  Javelle  method  only,  as  the  oxalic  acidulates 
the  wool  and  keeps  the  alkali  bleach  from  its  natural  action 
of  yellowing  and  dissolving  wool.  If  these  treatments  are 
long  continued,  they  result  most  likely  in  a  thinning  of  the 
woolen  fiber. 


Method  of  Removing  Stains.  25 

Rules  that  a  good  worker  on  stains  follows : 

1.  Know  material. 

2.  Know  stain. 

3.  Use  dilute  reagents. 

4.  Use  a  dropper. 

5.  Wash  thoroughly. 

6.  Always  use  simplest  reagents  first. 

STAINS  WHERE  WATER  CAN  PLAY  NO  PART 

On  some  woolens  and  silks,  grease  spots  may  be  removed 
by  gasoline,  naphtha,  alcohol,  benzine — all  of  which  are 
grease  solvents,  or  by  fuller's  earth,  paper  or  starch,  which 
are  absorbents.  The  above  solvents  are  inflammable. 

The  solvent  method  means  that  the  gasoline,  etc.,  dissolves 
the  grease,  setting  it  free  in  the  gasoline,  and  it  is  free  to 
run  where  it  will,  perhaps  spreading,  making  a  "gasoline 
ring."  Much  of  this  can  be  avoided  by  the  use  of  clean 
white  blotting  paper  or  soft  white  cloth  under  the  stain 
when  it  is  rubbed  by  a  cloth  (preferably  of  the  same  mate- 
rial) on  top.  As  fast  as  either  cloth  is  soiled,  a  new  pad  and 
a  new  rubber  should  be  used.  Rubbing  these  stains  until 
they  are  dry  also  helps  prevent  the  gasoline  ring.  After  the 
spot  has  been  removed,  it  will  be  found  that  dipping  the 
whole  garment  in  gasoline  or  naphtha  will  remove  traces  of 
spots.  Alcohol  is  a  grease  solvent,  but,  like  ether,  is  a  sol- 
vent of  color  as  well.  The  absorbent  method  is  best  used 
when  the  stain  is  fresh  and  so  easily  absorbed.  As  fast  as 
the  absorbent  agent  shows  grease  or  color,  a  new  covering 
should  be  used.  A  warm  iron  will  liquefy  the  grease  and 
aid  the  absorbent  in  its  work.  Do  not  have  iron  too  hot, 
as  it  will  not  only  change  the  color  of  the  fabric  but  often 
darkens  a  grease  spot. 


26  Laundering. 

NOTE. — Care  must  be  taken  in  the  use  of  gasoline,  naphtha, 
ether  or  benzine,  as  all  are  inflammable.  Do  not  have  a 
flame  near. 

Detergents  given  in  this  book  and  sold  as  grease  cleaners 
usually  contain  ether  and  should  be  used  most  carefully, 
because  ether  is  quite  likely  to  fade  color.  Do  not  use 
detergents  where  water  can  not  be  used.  They  are  of  most 
service  in  "spotting"  (technical  term  for  removing  spots) 
heavy  suitings.  Here,  again,  a  cloth  should  be  used  under  the 
stain  while  it  is  being  rubbed  on  top. 

JAVELLE  WATER. 

1  Ib.  washing  soda,  \  Ib.  chloride  of  lime, 

1  qt.  boiling  water.  2  qts.  cold  water. 

Put  the  soda  into  an  agate  pan  and  add  the  boiling  water.  Mix 
the  lime  in  the  cold  water.  Let  the  mixture  settle  and  pour  the  clear 
liquid  into  the  dissolved  soda.  Bottle,  and  keep  in  a  dark  place. 

Javelle  water  forms  a  very  efficient  bleaching  liquid  for  unbleached 
fabrics,  as  well  as  for  cotton  goods  that  have  become  yellow  with  dirt 
and  age.  To  remove  stains  from  white  goods,  soak  the  article  in  equal 
quantities  of  Javelle  water  and  hot  water  until  the  stain  disappears; 
then  rinse  thoroughly  in  several  waters,  and  finally  in  dilute  ammonia 
water.  Articles  washed  in  Javelle  water  have  a  strong  odor  of  the 
chloride  of  lime  and  the  final  washing  in  water  to  which  ammonia  has 
been  added,  will  help  to  destroy  this  odor.  Use  1  tablespoon  of  am- 
monia in  2  quarts  of  water.  Javelle  removes  all  stains  and  all  colors, 
and  therefore  should  not  be  used  on  colored  goods.  If  articles  remain 
too  long  in  the  Javelle  water,  the  fiber  will  be  injured. 

OXALIC  ACID. 

1  oz.  crystals,  I  c.  water. 

Dissolve  crystals  in  water.  For  dilute  solution,  add  equal  quantity 
of  water. 

POTASSIUM  PERMANGANATE. 

1  teaspoon  of  permanganate  crystals,  1  qt.  water. 

Dissolve  the  crystals  in  water. 


Method  of  Removing  Stains. 


27 


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Cover  both  sides  of  stains,  moisten  v 
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Apply  Javelle,  and  follow  immediately 
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CHAPTER  IV 
WASHING  AGENTS 

Water. — Water  is  a  solvent  and  a  carrier,  so  is  especially 
adapted  to  the  cleaning  of  soiled  clothes.  There  are 
two  kinds  of  water — soft  and  hard.  Soft  water  is 
most  suited  for  washing,  because  it  combines  readily 
with  the  soap,  easily  making  a  lather  which  is  the 
means  of  carrying  off  the  dirt.  Hard  wrater  may 
either  be  temporarily  hard  because  its  mineral  matter 
is  in  the  form  of  carbonates,  or  permanently  hard  with 
the  mineral  matter  in  sulphate  form.  Temporarily 
hard  water  is  easily  made  soft  by  exposing  the  water 
to  the  air,  or  by  boiling,  which  will  expel  carbon  dioxide, 
causing  the  carbonates  of  calcium  and  magnesium  to  be 
precipitated.  It  is  this  precipitation  which  causes  the 
crust  to  form  on  the  inside  of  boilers  and  kettles. 

The  sulphates  hinder  the  water  from  making  suds, 
so  that  permanently  hard  water  is  unsuitable  for  wash- 
ing, but  can  be  made  suitable  by  the  use  of  sodium 
carbonate  (washing  soda).  If  this  is  not  done,  the 
soap  will  combine  with  these  salts,. and  a  scum  forms 
which  is  a  greasy,  insoluble  curd.  This  scum  is  called 
lime  or  magnesium  soap,  and  will  form  in  a  boiler,  a 
wash  tub,  or  a  washing  machine  unless  live  suds  con- 
stantly exist.  This  lime  soap  streaks  the  clothes,  often 
settles  in  between  thicknesses  of  hem  and  tucks,  and 
requires  a  garment  to  be  rewashed.  An  abundance  of 
soap  will  soften  the  water,  but  it  will  be  at  the  high  cost 
of  the  price  of  soap,  while  washing  soda,  a  very  much 
(38) 


Washing  Agents.  39 

less  expensive  agent,  will  soften  it  and  will  be  inactive 
up  to  the  amount  required  to  soften  the  water.  When- 
ever washing  soda  is  used  in  connection  with  washing, 
it  should  be  in  the  form  of  a  solution,  using  only  enough 
to  produce  lasting  suds  with  the  scap  used. 

Water  when  raised  to  a  boiling  temperature  has  great 
power  as  a  disinfecting  agent. 

Water  cleans  by  dissolving  dirt ; 

by  carrying  away  insoluble  particles ; 
by  forming  an  emulsion  with  soap ; 
by  sterilizing  at  boiling  temperature. 

SOAP 

Soap  is  considered  today  as  an  essential  in  every  civilized 
community.  Some  one  has  said  that  the  civilization 
of  a  country  is  known  by  its  soap  bill.  Soap  is  not 
only  a  cleaner  but  it  is  a  disinfectant. 

As  a  cleaner,  soap  dissociates  in  water  and  forms 
suds  which  in  turn  act  as  an  agent  to  carry  off  the 
dirt.  -  This  dirt  is  most  often  held  in  by  greasy  matter 
which  is  attacked  by  the  alkali  set  free  in  the  soap, 
and  saponified  by  it. 

As  a  disinfectant,  soap  is  used  in  hospitals  to  sterilize 
hands  and  instruments;  in  laundries,  to  sterilize  clothes; 
for  toilet  purposes,  to  sterilize  skin;  in  homes,  for  dishes, 
refrigerators  and  all  general  cleaning.  An  experiment 
once  made  on  various  soaps  from  all  kinds  of  places 
and  uses  showed  the  great  power  of  soap  to  destroy 
germs.  With  all  experiments  made,  no  cultures  could 
be  grown,  and  soaps  that  were  inoculated  with  germs 
possessed  none  after  four  hours. 

Kinds: 

Toilet .     Laundry . 


40 


Laundering. 


;  \3 


j  £ 

£5 


I  II 


I 


is 

s  s 


•"3   o     -3  |   g 

II  111 


Washing  Agents.  41 

The  required  ingredients  for  soap  are  fat  and  alkali 
(soda  or  potash). 

Quality  of  a  soap  depends  on  the  cleanliness  of  its  fat 
ingredient,  upon  the  proportion  of  fat  and  alkali,  and 
upon  the  kind  and  amount  of  foreign  material. 

The  fat  should  be  clean,  whether  animal  or  vegetable 
fat.  The  vegetable  fats,  making  a  milder  soap,  are 
most  often  used  for  toilet  soaps.  Any  animal  fat  is 
used  alone  or  mixed  with  others,  and  even  kitchen 
grease  may  be  used.  This  fat  may  be  used  for  the 
cheap  toilet  soaps,  but  more  often  is  the  foundation 
for  laundry  soaps. 

Foreign  material  is  a  term  which  may  be  applied 
to  all  substances  not  necessary  to  the  actual  formation 
of  soap.  These  may  be  added  to  soaps  to  increase 
weight,  to  aid  in  cleansing,  for  medicinal  uses,  and 
for  esthetic  reasons. 

1.  Rosin to  increase  weight. 

Water to  increase  formation  of  aids. 

2.  Soda.... } 

Borax ....  f  to  aid  in  cleansing. 

Ammonia J 

Kerosene by  softening  water. 

Benzine by  cutting  grease. 

3.  Sand \,       .,  .      t        .      ,  .  ,  . 

p      .  >to  aid  in  cleansing  by  scratching. 

4.  Medicines "1 

Oils V  for  external  treatments. 

Disinfectants .  J 

5.  Perfume for  esthetic  reasons. 

Color to  hide  dirty  fats. 


42  Laundering, 

Weight  Substances. — A  certain  amount  of  water — twelve 
to  fourteen  per  cent — is  good  in  a  soap,  as  it  keeps  it 
sufficiently  soft  to  cause  it  to  blend  readily  with  the 
water,  and  so  quickly  and  easily  to  make  suds.  Excess 
water  makes  soap  soft,  and  may  be  an  adulterant,  if 
in  very  large  quantities,  for  then  it  will  add  consider- 
able weight.  When  soap  is  purchased  by  the  cake, 
the  percentage  of  water  seems  of  less  moment,  but 
should  be  guarded  against  when  soap  chips  are  bought 
by  pound  weight. 

Rosin  is  prepared  from  crude  pine  turpentine  by  distillation. 
It  is  added  to  soaps  because  it  produces  a  foam  or  false 
suds  with  water.  To  a  certain  extent  this  may  clean, 
but  as  the  suds  are  sticky  and  gum-like,  it  naturally 
forms  gum  layers  on  the  boiler,  and  should  the  suds 
not  hold,  but  a  scum  form,  the  rosin  will  cause  the  scum 
to  adhere  to  the  clothes.  Rosin  will  be  found  in.  all 
yellow  laundry  soaps,  and  may  be  detected  by  the  odor, 
and  by  a  sticky  feeling  when  handled. 

Soda,  Borax,  and  Ammonia  are  .alkalis  which  may  soften 
the  water,  and  so  increase  the  suds,  or  may  saponify 
(or  cut)  the  grease,  and  so  set  the  grease  free.  Borax 
and  ammonia  are  such  mild  alkalis,  we  might  consider 
them  harmless.  Soda  is  used  in  carbonate  form  (wash- 
ing soda).  It  is  hard  on  the  hands  and  injurious  to 
wools,  silks,  and  colors.  It  is  better  to  buy  a  neutral 
soap,  and  when  desired  add  soda  in  liquid  form.  It 
is  not  only  cheaper  but  safer.  Sodium  carbonate  may 
be  qualitatively  tested  by  this  simple  means : 

Shave  one  tablespoon  of  soap.  Place  in  beaker,  or 
glass,  cover  with  alcohol,  about  one  cup.  Place  beaker 
over  water  bath.  Heat  slowly  until  all  soap  is  dissolved. 


Washing  Agents.  43 

Strain  or  pour  through  filter  paper.  All  pure  soap  will 
go  through  paper  with  alcohol.  What  remains  is  excess 
soda  or  foreign  material.  (This  test  will  not  show 
resin.)  Excess  alkali  is  roughly  tested  by  litmus  paper. 
Always  test  the  center  of  a  freshly  cut  cake  of  soap. 
Use  red  litmus  and  see  if  it  turns  blue.  A  water  bath 
may  be  made  with  a  large  pan  and  a  weight  or  ring 
in  the  bottom  upon  which  to  stand  the  beakers,  or  glass. 
NOTE. — Have  low  fire  under  alcohol  so  there  will  be 
no  danger  of  fire. 

Kerosene  in  soap  loosens  the  dirt  in  the  same  way  that 
kerosene  in  the  boiler  does.  Good  rinsing  should 
follow  to  remove  odor. 

Benzine  soaps  are  especially  made  and  bought  for  spotting 
and  cleaning.  Benzine  is  a  grease  solvent.  In  the 
absence  of  benzine  soap,  use  any  water  soap  and  benzine 
or  gasoline. 

Sand  and  pumice  are  abrasive  materials  and  clean  by 
scratching. 

Medicine,  oils  and  disinfectants,  like  resorcin,  quinine, 
olive  oil  and  carbolic  acid,  are  used  for  bathing  and 
disinfecting  scalp  sores  and  delicate  or  diseased  skin. 

Perfume  and  color  should  be  accepted  only  in  high  quality 
soaps,  as  they  may  be  used  to  cover  up  impurities  in 
a  cheap  soap. 

To  make  Soda  Solution  for  Soap  Making: 

I.   1  Ib.  caustic  soda,  chemically  pure. 
6  pts.  water. 


44  Laundering. 

Dissolve  the  caustic  soda  in  water  and  if  this  pro- 
portion is  rightly  measured  the  soda  will  be  of  the  cor- 
rect strength,  17°  Beaume,  when  tested  with  a  Beaume 
hydrometer,  to  be  combined  with  pure  clean  fat. 

II.  1  can  lye. 
1  qt.  water. 

This  is  a  household  recipe  and  produces  good  results, 
but  the  soda  is  not  of  such  pure  quality. 

Prepare  the  Fat  by  melting  it  and  letting  it  cook  slowly 
with  water  or  raw  potato  until  the  fat  no  longer 
crackles.  This  means  the  water  has  all  evaporated 
and  has  deodorized  the  fat  by  its  vaporizing  and  carry- 
ing off  some  of  the  odor. 

While  still  warm  the  fat  whould  be  strained  through 
fine  muslin  (the  usual  household  way),  or  through  fine 
charcoal  or  clay.  This  latter  is  a  slow  process  but 
gives  a  whiter  fat  and  hence  a  whiter  soap. 

To  make  the  Soap  use : 

1  Ib.  clean  fat,  warmed. 
14  oz.  soda  or  lye  solution. 

Stir  with  an  agate  spoon  or  a  stick  until  the  con- 
sistency of  honey  and  then  mold. 

To  Mold. — Line  an  enamel  pan  or  box  with  waxed  paper, 
cutting  the  paper  in  strips  so  the  corners  will  be  smooth 
(like  the  paper  in  candy  boxes).  Pour  soap  mixture 
in  box  and  let  stand  until  well  formed.  Before  it  dries 
remove  the  paper  as  one  would  from  a  warm  cake. 
Any  coloring,  perfume  or  extra  cleansing  material  should 
be  added  as  the  soap  is  saponifying  and  before  the 
molding  consistency  is  reached. 


Washing  Agents.  45 

To  Store. — Soap  should  be  kept  until  sufficiently  dry  to 
not  become  soft  and  pasty  as  soon  as  wet.  For  rapid 
work  soap  cannot  be  too  dry ;  therefore  it  is  wise  if  one 
stores  a  box  of  soap  to  keep  the  half  to  be  used  last, 
wrapped,  and  unwrap  the  first  lot.  For  quick  drying 
stand  the  cakes  on  edge,  leaving  a  space  between,  and 
stack  log  cabin  fashion. 

Soap  Solution  for  Boiling  or  for  Washing  Machine : 

Dissolve  1  Ib.  soap  chips  in  5  gals,  of  water;  or 
1  cake  of  soap  in  4  qts.  of  water. 

Dissolve  by  heating  at  a  low  temperature.  The 
color  should  be  amber  and  not  dark.  Over-cooking 
soap  makes  the  solution  dark. 

If  the  water  is  very  hard  or  the  clothes  very  soiled, 
one-half  pound  to  one  pound  of  washing  soda  may  be 
added  to  the  soap  solution  when  soap  is  dissolved. 
Continue  heating  until  all  soda  is  dissolved.  Soda 
"built  in"  to  soap  in  this  manner  does  little  harm  to 
any  cotton  or  linen  garment  and  is  often  not  only  a 
saver  of  soap  where  water  is  hard,  but  overcomes  grease 
in  table  linen  and  heavy  soil  in  dirty  garments  like 
overalls. 

Soap  Recipes : 

BLANKET  WASH  SOLUTION. 
I.  Soap  for  washing  blankets. 

1  large  bar  Ivory  soap.         2  tablespoons  borax. 
3  qts.  cold  water.  |  cup  wood  alcohol. 

Shave  the  soap  into  the  cold  water  and  heat  to  boil- 
ing point.  When  cold,  add  borax  and  alcohol. 

Put  about  one  quart  of  this  solution  into  the  first  tub, 


46  Laundering. 

one  pint  into  the  second  tub  for  washing  all  woolens. 
All  three  waters  should  be  of  the  same  temperature. 
Follow  the  rules  on  page  94.  This  solution  will  wash 
four  pairs  of  blankets. 

•  II.  Detergent. 

1J  oz.  white  castile  soap.  1  oz.  ether. 

1  oz.  alcohol  (wood  or  grain).   4  oz.  ammonia. 

Cut  soap  fine  and  heat  in  one  pint  of  soft  water  until 
dissolved.  Then  add  three  quarts  of  cold  water  and 
the  other  ingredients.  For  cleaning  black  goods,  use 
J  cup  of  this  liquid  in  one  pint  of  warm  water.  If  this 
makes  the  article  too  stiff,  add  more  water.  For 
removing  spots  from  woolen  goods,  as  men's  cloth- 
ing, apply  (only  slightly  diluted)  with  a  sponge.  It  is 
always  safer  to  test  any  cleansing  solution  with  a.  piece 
of  the  material  before  attempting  to  remove  stain,  as 
the  ether  may  affect  the  color. 

Soap  Substitutes: 

Bran  water. 
Potato  water. 
Starch  water. 
Soap  bark  water. 

Recipes  in  chapter  on  colored  clothes,  page  93. 

STARCH  AND  STARCHING 

Starch  is  of  vegetable  origin,  found  in  the  seeds,  roots  and 
tubers  of  vegetables  and  in  the  seeds  of  grains.  From 
the  cookery  point  of  view  we  have  many  starches,  but 
the  laundress  chooses  only  those  which  give  a  desired 
degree  of  stiffness  and  at  the  same  time  a  pliability. 


Washing  Agents.  47 

One  wants  a  body  which  will  resist  moisture  with  clear 
good  color  as  well  as  gloss  "or  finish. 

Kinds  used : 

Corn. 

Wheat. 

Rice. 

Mixed  or  "blended." 

Corn  starch  is  the  most  commonly  used  because  of 
its  cheapness  and  because  the  other,  have  not  been 
sufficiently  considered.  As  the  industry  has  advanced 
we  find  packages  of  wheat  and  rice  starch  on  the 
grocery  shelves  and  mixed  or  blended  starches  in  the 
laundry  supply  houses.  Today  starches  are  rated 
according  to  their  ability  to  make  a  paste  which  pene- 
trates the  fiber  and  at  the  same  time  resists  moisture. 
This  power  to  make  a  paste  is  called  viscosity.  Corn 
has  the  greatest  viscosity  and  so  plays  an  important 
part  in  the  blended  starches,  where  it  furnishes  the 
resisting  power  to  the  fabric  while  wheat  gives  pliability. 
The  "blending"  proportion  or  recipe  varies  for  the 
work  the  starch  is  to  do.  The  rule  is  about  two-thirds 
corn  to  one-third  wheat  when  blended  for  collars,  cuffs 
and  shirt  bosoms,  while  two-thirds  wheat  and  one- 
third  corn  is  more  often  the  ratio  used  for  body  clothes. 
Blended  starches  are  used  by  the  launderer.  He  buys 
the  starch  blended  (even  to  having  borax  and  paraffine 
added) ,  or  he  buys  two  kinds  and  blends  in  his  own 
way.  Wheat  has  a  lesser  viscosity,  while  rice  has  the 
least.  In  all  fine  lingerie  work  today  the  expert  laun- 
derer is  using  rice  starch.  It  may  be  expensive,  but 
gives  just  the  new  finish  to  the  fabric.  All  starch  is 
in  the  form  of  minute  granules  which  are  tasteless, 


48 


Laundering. 


odorless,  white  and  distinguishable  from  each  other 
only  by  a  microscope  which  shows  each  granule  to  have 
its  characteristic  shape  and  size. 

Solubility. — Starch   granules  are  insoluble  in    cold  water, 
swelling  only  with  moisture;   when  heat  is  applied,  the 

POTATO.  CORN. 


RICE. 


WHEAT. 

cellulose  covering  bursts,  forming  a  thick,  sticky 
which  is  the  paste  used. 


mass 


To  Make. — Starch  paste  may  be  made  in  two  ways,  but  in 
both  the  principle  is  the  same.  In  either  case  cold 
water  must  be  added  to  the  white  powder  to  separate 


Washing  Agents.  49 

the  grains,  as  they  are  so  fine  they  mass  together  when 
dry,  and  lump  if  heat  is  added  before  the  granules  are 
separated.  Heat  is  applied  in  one  of  two  ways.  The 
home  method  of  making  starch  is  to  add  the  right 
amount  of  boiling  water  to  the  cold  water  and  starch, 
while  the  commercial  method  and  one  good  for  large 
quantity  work  is  to  pour  into  the  measured  water, 
which  is  boiling,  the  mixture  of  cold  water  and  starch 
granules.  The  borax,  alum  and  fat  may  be  added  to 
the  cold  water  mixture.  The  granules  begin  to  break 
at  120°  P.;  all  are  broken  at  212°  F.  Starch  should 
be  boiled  gently  for  fifteen  minutes,  care  being  taken 
to  prevent  burning. 

Directions  for  Use. — Use  the  starch  hot  and  strain  first 
before  using;  this  prevents  using  lumpy  starch  and 
starch  with  a  skin.  In  commercial  laundries  starch 
is  kept  hot  in  steam  kettles.  This  same  idea  may  be 
used  in  the  home  by  standing  the  saucepan  in  a  pan  of 
water,  or,  if  the  quantity  warrants,  by  using  the  fire- 
less  cooker. 

A  little  bluing  is  usually  added  to  the  starch  paste, 
because  the  hot  starch  extracts  some  bluing  from  the 
garments. 

To  Starch. — The  garments  should  be  free  from  excess 
moisture,  which  would  dilute  the  starch  and  make  the 
degree  of  stiffness  irregular,  and  the  garment  should 
be  wrong  side  out.  This  prevents  any  possibilities  of 
irregularly  made  or  used  starch  from  showing  on  the 
surface  after  ironing.  Work  the  paste  well  into  the 
fabric,  then  wring  out  all  excess  starch  and  end  by 
rubbing  the  left-over  starch  well  into  the  pores  of  the 


50  Laundering. 

fabric.      Starch  well_  cooked  and  rubbed  in  will  give 
little  trouble  if  the  irons  are  clean  and  hot. 

Clear  Starching  is  used  for  lingerie  work  and  lace  curtains, 
and  means  that  the  starch  paste  is  only  thick  enough 
to  produce  a  new  appearance  in  the  fabric.  Rice  starch 
is  best  for  this,  or  we  may  dilute  wheat  or  corn  starch 
by  adding  more  water  and  reducing  either  to  almost  a 
watery  consistency.  The  starch  paste  is  so  thin  for 
clear  starching  that  it  will  not  permit  of  further  dilu- 
tion; so  the  clear-starched  garment  is  rolled  for  one- 
half  to  one  hour  and  ironed  "out  of  the  starch,"  i.  e., 
without  drying  and  sprinkling. 

Heavy  Starching  is  used  for  collars,  cuffs,  and  shirt  bosoms 
where  we  want  a  heavy  garment  to  resist  moisture 
and  soil  and  not  to  crack  easily.  All  corn  starch,  or 
corn  and  wheat  starch  in  proportion  of  two  to  one,  is 
best  suited  for  this  work.  This  starch,  on  cooling 
sufficiently  to  handle,  is  like  a  very  soft  jelly.  The 
collars  and  cuffs  and  bosoms  are  dried  and  then  starched. 
The  starch  is  rubbed  in  until  every  thickness  is  wet 
with  starch  and  each  is  glued  to  its  neighbor.  The 
dried  garment  has  been  forced  to  take  up  enough 
starch  to  be  thoroughly  wet,  stripes  of  the  pattern  are 
straightened  now,  blisters  are  worked,  surplus  material 
caused  by  bad  making  or  cutting  is  -pushed  to  the 
part  where  it  may  be  hidden,  and  with  a  damp  cheese- 
cloth all  shining  starch  on  the  surface  is  wiped  off. 
The  properly  heavy-starched  garment  should  be  hung 
straight,  without  folds  or  mussing,  and  is  then  ready 
for  the  glossing  and  smoothing  of  the  hot  iron.  Three- 
fourths  of  the  work  of  the  ironer  has  been  done  by 
the  starcher.  This  whole  process  is  quite  like  that  of 


Washing  Agents.  51 

mounting  a  photograph  where  straightness,  smoothness 
and  no  blisters  are  essential. 

Uncooked  Starch  requires  much  greater  work  in  the  iron- 
ing, for  in  this  method  the  iron  really  makes  the  paste 
by  cooking  the  starch  as  it  passes  over  the  collar  or 
cuff.  It  will  be  found  that  the  fiber  absorbs  the  un- 
cooked starch  readily  and  consequently  will  make  it 
a  stiff er  garment.  Because  of  the  difficult  ironing  after 
this  method  we  find  most  experts  making  a  heavy 
starch  as  described  on  page  50. 

A  cold  starch  is  being  used  today  in  most  commercial 
laundries.  It  is  a  mixture  of  cooked  and  raw  starch. 
The  cooked  starch  helps  to  keep  the  uncooked  from 
settling  and  hence  separating. 

Starch  Accessories. — Borax,  paraffine,  wax,  lard,  may  be 
called  starch  accessories. 

Borax  and  alum  increase  the  color,  pliability  and 
gloss  of  the  starch.  Alum  thins  the  starch  without 
affecting  the  strength  of  the  mixture. 

The  waxes  and  fats  should  be  white,  and  are  used 
to  make  a  smoother  starch,  one  that  will  not  adhere 
to  the  iron  so  easily.  Butter  is  not  suitable  because 
of  its  color. 

Starch  Substitutes  such  as  borax,  gum  arabic,  glue  and 
dextrine  may  be  used  with  the  starch,  but  are  often 
used  as  substitutes.  They  are  especially  good  for  silks 
and  for  colors  where  one  fears  the  whiteness  of  starch 
may  be  seen. 

Glue  may  be  used  for  dark -colored  fabrics,  but  has 
been  superseded  now  by  a  "mourning  starch"  which 
is  so  darkened  in  manufacture  that  it  does  not  show 
white  on  blues,  browns  or  blacks. 


52 


Laundering. 


Gum  arable  is  an  easy,  good  substitute  for  starch. 
Use  1  tablespoon  to  1  quart  of  warm  water.  Strain. 

Tinting  Starches  by  tea  liquor,  bluing,  or  colorings,  makes 
it  possible  to  starch  any  color  and  not  have  it  show  and 
also  makes  it  possible  to  replace  some  color  that  may 
have  faded  in  washing. 

Tea  makes  good  ivory,  old  lace,  and  ecru  colors. 
It  is  better  than  coffee,  as  the  liquor  is  more  likely  to 
'be  clear  and  there  is  less  odor.  Cook  a  cheap  black 
tea  (about  one  tablespoon  to  one  pint  of  water)  until 
a  strong  colored  liquor  is  made.  Use  enough  of  this 
to  get  the  tint  desired.  This  tea  water  must  take  the 
place  of  some  of  the  clear  water  allowed  in  the  starch 
recipe  or  the  starch  will  be  too  thin. 

Tinted  starches  should  be  treated  first  on  a  small 
piece  to  see  if  the  color  is  good.  Remember  it  will  be 
lighter  when  dry. 

Recipes: 


Water. 

Borax. 

Pat. 

Starch. 

Corn. 

Wheat. 

Rice. 

Heavy  starch  

1  qt. 

k  tsp. 

£  tsp. 

3    tb. 

5    tb. 

5    tb. 

Thin  starch 

1  at. 

£  tSP. 

£  tSP. 

1|  tb. 

2\  tb. 

2k  tb. 

Clear  starch  

1  qt. 

i  tsp. 

\  tsp. 

i  tb. 

1    tb. 

1    tb. 

Raw  starch  

1  qt. 

\  tso. 

£  tsp. 

1    tb. 

Utb. 

Ik  tb. 

Gum  arabic  1  tb 

1  at. 

tb.  =  tablespoon,    tsp.  =  teaspoon,    pt.  =  pint.    qt.  =  quart. 

BLUES  AND  BLUING 

Blues  come  from  a  vegetable,  mineral,  or  chemical  source. 
They  are  bought  either  in  a  liquid  or  solid  form — 


Washing  Agents.  53 

balls,  blocks,  crystals,  powders.  Color  tones  of  the 
different  blues  vary  considerably;  the  chemical  variety 
being  a  violet  or  blue  blue,  or  greenish  blue;  the  min- 
eral, a  blue  blue;  and  the  vegetable,  a  dull,  dark  blue. 
A  comparison  of  the  cost  of  different  blues  proves  one 
cheaper  than  the  other,  for  some  may  be  used  entirely 
while  in  others  there  is  considerable  waste  material  of 
a  clay  nature. 

Bluing  is  used  to  counteract  the  tendency  of  white 
clothes  to  yellow.  The  amount  used  in  any  case  varies 
according  to  the  material  and  weave,  the  thinner,  soft 
mesh  fabrics  absorbing  the  most  color. 

Kinds  Used: 

Indigo. 
Ultramarine. 
Prussian. 
Aniline. 

Indigo,  the  oldest  known  blue,  comes  in  powder  or  lump 
form.  It  is  obtained  through  fermentation  of  the 
indigo  plant.  The  liquid  product  secured  by  means 
of  this  process  is  agitated  in  order  to  oxidize  the  indigo 
plant.  The  blue  pigment  is  the  result  of  this  aerating 
process.  Several  other  treatments  are  necessary  before 
the  crude  product  is  in  marketable  form. 

The  process  of  making  indigo  blue  is  tedious,  and 
the  quantity  obtained  per  plant  is  very  small.  This 
bluing  is  therefore  expensive.  The  color  is  a  dull  dark 
blue,  looking  almost  black  when  in  lumps.  Its  lack 
of  brightness  of  color  and  the  cost  of  manufacturing 
it  has  caused  this  blue  to  be  almost  abandoned  as  a 
laundry  blue.  It  is  insoluble  in  water,  bluing  by  the 
fine  particles  being  suspended  in  the  water. 


54  Laundering. 

Ultramarine  Blue  comes  in  ball  or  block  form  and  occa- 
sionally is  a  powder.  The  ultramarine  of  the  laundry 
is  not  the  natural  product,  lapis  lazuli,  but  an  artificial 
by-product  obtained  from  the  soda  industry.  Its  com- 
position is  very  similar  to  the  blue  mineral  formerly 
used,  having  china  clay  or  kaolin  as  a  basis.  It  is 
believed  that  the  ultramarine  blue  is  a  double  silicate 
of  sodium  and  aluminum  with  sodium  sulphide  in  addi- 
tion. Different  samples  of  this  blue  may  show  slight 
differences  of  composition  on  analysis. 

The  color  is  a  bright  blue.  This  blue  is  used  com- 
monly in  the  home  but  not  in  commercial  laundries. 
When  the  large  amount  of  clay  material  in  the  blue 
and,  consequently,  its  small  capacity  for  bluing  is  con- 
sidered, it  is  not  difficult  to  realize  that  this  bluing  is 
not  cheap  when  compared  with  others.  See  analysis 
of  blues,  pages  58-59. 

Prussian  Blue  has  copperas  and  potassium  ferrocyanide 
as  a  basis.  The  blue  usually  appears  in  liquid  form, 
only  occasionally  as  a  powder. 

The  color  is  greenish  blue.  This  blue  is  a  favorite 
with  many  laundresses.  If  used  when  clothes  have 
been  carelessly  rinsed,-  the  iron  in  its  composition  will 
probably  prove  troublesome  by  the  soap,  which  is 
carried  into  the  bluing  water,  making  an  iron  com- 
pound which  later  appears  as  rust  spots  on  the  clothes. 
When  compared  with  other  bluings,  this  is  by  no  means 
as  cheap  a  bluing  as  many  consider  it. 

Aniline  Blue  comes  in  a  powder  or  crystal  form.  It  is 
always  converted  into  a  liquid  state  before  using.  It, 
too,  is  an  artificial  blue,  being  a  by-product  from  coal 
tar. 


Washing  Agents.  55 

Aniline  gives  a  great  variety  in  color,  the  extremes 
being  a  blue  blue  and  purple  blue.  This  variety  of 
color  is  valued,  for  its  different  tones  lend  themselves 
to  the  launderer's  skill  in  obtaining  the  color  of  dif- 
ferent fabrics  that  is  desired.  This  bluing  is  sold  by 
the  ounce  or  pound  and  may  be  bought  from  any 
laundry  supply  house.  One  ounce  makes  a  gallon  of 
liquid  blue.  Comparing  this  blue  with  others,  it 
proves  cheaper  and  more  effective,  as  it  gives  a  clear 
color  to  clothes,  is  so  strong  that  only  a  small  quantity 
is  required,  and  is  soluble. 

Properties. — Indigo,  besides  not  having  a  good  color  itself, 
and  therefore  not  being  able  to  give  good  color  to 
clothes,  does  not  stand  heat  from  the  iron  well. 

Ultramarine  decomposes  in  presence  of  acids — its  large 
proportion  of  clay  material  is  a  large  factor  against 
its  use. 

Prussian  disintegrates  when  it  stands  for  a  long 
time  in  sunlight.  Alkali  in  connection  with  heat  will 
break  it  up,  giving  an  iron  precipitate. 

Aniline  will  be  but  slightly  affected  by  strong  alkalis 
and  will  stand  heat  from  the  iron. 

Solubility. — The  different  blues  vary  greatly  in  solubility: 

Indigo  is  insoluble. 

Ultramarine  is  not  soluble,  for  there  is  the  clay 
carrier  which  is  insoluble. 

Prussian  in  commercial  form  and  aniline  are  entirely 
soluble. 

To  Make. — 1.  Bluing  from  liquid  blues. 

To  the  tub  of  water,  pour  in  a  small  quantity  of  the 
liquid  blue  and  stir  with  the  hand  to  blend.  If  not 


56  Laundering. 

the  required  color,  add  small  quantities  at  a  time, 
stirring  each  time.  Use  about  one  teaspoonful  to  a  tub. 
It  is  difficult  to  give  a  definite  amount  as  tubs  vary  in 
size  and  bluing  varies  much  in  degree  of  color.  To  test 
the  degree  of  color  tone  lower  the  hand  under  the  water 
or  put  some  in  a  clear  glass.  It  may  be  tested  with  a 
small  piece  of  fabric.  Experience  soon  teaches  the 
amount  to  use. 

2.  All  powdered  blues  must  be  made  into  liquid 
form  before  using. 

To  prepare  aniline  blue : 

1  oz.  aniline  blue  (powder). 
1  gal.  water. 

Stir  until  dissolved  and  then  filter  through  filter 
paper  or  several  thicknesses  of  fine  cheese-cloth .  Bottle . 
A  much  smaller  quantity  of  this  liquid  aniline  blue  will 
be  needed  to  make  bluing  than  of  any  of  the  other 
liquid  bluings  on  the  market,  about  J  teaspoon  for  a 
tub  of  water.  Test  as  under  No.  1. 

3.  Bluing  from  solid  blues — ball,  block,  or  lump. 

Tie  a  quantity  in  a  flannel  or  in  three  or  four  thick- 
nesses of  cheese-cloth.  This  blue  bag  is  dipped  into 
the  tub  of  water  and  squeezed,  then  the  water  is  stirred 
to  blend  the  blue.  Use  about  \  of  a.  ball  to  a  tub  of 
water.  Test  as  under  No.  1. 

To  Use. — Before  using,  the  bluing  should  be  stirred  each 
time  to  blend.  In  case  of  the  indigo  and  ultramarine 
blues,  settling  of  particles  of  blue  is  very  noticeable 
if  bluing  has  stood  for  only  a  short  time.  Each  article 
washed  should  be  shaken  out  before  putting  into  the 
blue  tub.  Only  a  few  pieces  should  be  put  in  at  a  time. 


Washing  Agents.  57 

Stirring  the  blue  each  time  it  is  used,  shaking  out  each 
piece,  and  leaving  in  the  blue  for  a  few  minutes  only, 
will  prevent  streaking.  It  is  better  to  dip  a  garment 
several  times  rather  than  allow  it  to  stay  in  the  blue 
tub  for  a  length  of  time. 

Effect  of  Bluing  on  Different  Weaves. — Materials  that  are 
open  in  weaves,  as  table  linen,  laces,  etc.,  will  take  the 
blue  very  readily;  therefore,  bluing  for  them  should  be 
light  in  tone.  For  closely  woven  material,  as  sheets, 
etc.,  the  blue  should  be  considerably  deeper. 

To  Remove  Blue. — Clothes  that  are  too  blue,  as  a  result 
of  bluing  being  too  deep  in  color  or  from  an  accumula- 
tion of  repeated  bluings,  should  be  put  into  boiling 
water  and  allowed  to  remain  for  a  half  hour.  When 
the  excess  blue  will  not  yield  to  this  treatment,  clothes 
should  be  boiled.  Boil  until  white. 

Tinting. — For  very  dark  blue  or  black  material,  the  bluing 
should  be  made  very  deep  in  color  in  order  to  be  of 
any  use  to  these  colors. 

Do  not  use  bluing  for  browns,  greens,  or  pinks. 

Experiments  for  Testing  Blues. 

Equipment  needed  for  experiments: 
Test  tube  rack. 

Test  tubes — two  for  each  bluing. 
Funnels — one  for  each  bluing. 
Filter  paper — two  for  each  test. 
Strong  alkali — as  caustic  soda. 
Dilute  hydrochloric  acid. 
Some  means  of  heating  test  tube. 
Knife  to  scrape  balls  of  block  into  powder. 


58  Laundering. 

1.  Test  for  Solubility. 

Small  quantity  of  blue  to  be  tested. 

Mix  well  with  water  and  filter. 

Material  left. on  the  filter  paper  shows  the  insoluble 
portion  of  the  blue.  The  liquid  portion  that  has  passed 
through  the  filter  will  show  by  its  tone  how  much  or 
how  little  blue  has  gone  through . 

Blues  that  are  quite  insoluble,  blue  clothes  by  deposit- 
ing fine  particles  evenly  on  the  fabric.  In  order  to 
get  fine  particles,  the  blue  is  squeezed  through  fine 
meshes  of  flannel  or  several  thicknesses  of  cheese- 
cloth, and  the  tub  of  blue  is  stirred  in  order  to  keep 
particles  in  suspension. 

2.  Test  for  Iron  in  Blue. 

Small  quantity  of  blue  and  water  mixed  well  in  test 
tube.  Add  small  quantity  of  alkali — as  caustic  soda — 
and  heat  the  contents  of  the  tube.  This  can  be  easily 
done  by  holding  the  test  tube  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water. 

If  the  blue  is  an  iron  or  Prussian  blue,  a  heavy  red 
precipitate  will  form.  It  is  this  change  that  takes 
place  when  the  hot  iron  is  run  over  fabric  that  has 
been  carelessly  washed  and  rinsed  and  a  Prussian  blue 
has  been  used.  The  alkali  of  the  soap  combines  with 
the  blue,  resulting  in  deposits  of  iron  oxide  or  iron 
rust. 

3.  Test  for  Foreign  Materials  in  Blue. 

Filter  papers  with  results  of  Experiment  2  should 
be  carefully  washed  with  dilute  hydrochloric  acid, 
five  per  cent. 

Aniline  blues  are  not  affected.  Ultramarine  blue 
will  yield  their  blue  color  and  a  gray-colored  clay 
material  will  remain  on  the  filter  paper.  The  propor_ 


Washing  Agents.  59 

tion  of  the  clay  material  to  the  amount  tested  is  very 
large.  With  the  change  of  color  from  blue  to  gray, 
a  distinct  odor  of  hydrogen  sulphide  will  be  noted. 

Prussian  blue  will  react  to  its  original  color  on  wash- 
ing the  filter  paper  containing  the  iron  residue  with 
the  acid,  and  the  iron  deposit  will  disappear,  having 
been  changed  into  soluble  form. 

NOTE. — 'For  young  children  who  would  not  appre- 
ciate the  change  taking  place  in  test  tubes,  the  first 
two  experiments  might  be  done  in  a  way  to  appeal  to 
them.  (1)  If  bluing  has  been  made  from  ultramarine 
blue,  and  allowed  to  stand,  the  deposit  of  blue  particles 
will  show  plainly,  even  in  the  blue  tub,  showing  insolu- 
bility of  blue. 

(2)  If  a  piece  of  cloth  is  washed  with  ordinary  yel- 
low laundry  soap,  which  usually  has  excess  alkali,  and 
rinsed  sparingly,  then  blued  with  a  Prussian  blue — 
when  the  hot  iron  is  applied,  rust  spots  will  usually 
appear  or  the  cloth  will  be  quite  yellow  in  tint  com- 
pared with  the  new  piece  from  which  the  child  has 
torn  the  test  piece. 

CLEANSING  AGENTS 
Alum 

Na2SO4,  A12(SO4)3,  24H2O.  Very  soluble  in  water,  having 
astringent  acid  and  sweetish  taste;  litmus  test  acid;  loses 
water  of  crystallization  on  heating.  Commercial  alum — 
potash  alum. 

Uses  in  laundry:  Salts  of  alum  used  in  dyeing,  mordant- 
ing; clarifying  turbid  liquid;  alone  or  with  borax  in  starch 
to  improve  color,  increase  penetrability  and  pliability,  and 
to  thin  starch  mixture. 


60  Laundering. 

Borax 

Na2B407,  10H2O.  A  colorless,  well  crystallized  salt;  reac- 
tion, alkaline.  Milder  than  washing  soda,  but  effective  as 
a  cleaner,  a  disinfectant  and  a  bleach.  Being  weaker  in 
its  action,  more  of  it  must  be  used  to  produce  a  given  result. 
It  is  much  less  irritating  to  the  skin  and  less  injurious  to 
fabrics  and  colors. 

Magnesium 

Malleable,  ductile  metal  of  the  color  and  brilliancy  of 
silver;  reaction  slightly  alkaline. 

Uses:  Magnesia,  MgO,  used  in  cleaning  white  felts,  vel- 
vets, etc. 

"Benzinized  magnesia,"  for  grease  spots  on  silk:  Mix 
calcined  magnesia  with  just  enough  pure  benzine  to  make 
moist,  crumbly  mass.  Spread  thickly  over  spot  and  rub 
thoroughly  with  finger-tips.  Brush  off  lumps,  and  when 
benzine  has  evaporated,  brush  off  all  particles. 

"Etherized  magnesia"  also  used  for  spots. 

Caustic  Potash 

KOH.  Used  to  make  soaps.  Strong  alkali  unless  com- 
bined with  fat  as  a  soap.  Neutral  olive-oil  potash  soap, 
less  deleterious  effect  on  wool  and  silk  fibers  than  soap,  but 
not  so  cheap.  See  chapter  on  Soap. 

Potassium  Permanganate 

K2Mn2Os  or  KMn04.  Manufacture:  To  ten  parts  satu- 
rated solution  caustic  soda  add  seven  parts  potassium 
chlorate  and  eight  parts  manganese  dioxide;  evaporate  and 
heat  until  potassium  chlorate  decomposes;  treat  with  boil- 
ing water,  filter,  and  crystallize  filtrate.  Crystallizes  in 


Washing  Agents.  61 

rhombic  needles  of  a  very  dark  purple  color.    A  very  soluble 
salt,  forming  a  purplish-red  solution. 

Uses  in  laundry:  Oxidizing  agent;  removing  stains;  it 
.bleaches  by  its  free  oxygen  in  the  presence  of  an  acid. 
Removes  stubborn  stains  of  almost  any  source,  but,  of 
course,  like  any  bleach,  will  remove  color.  Use  4  grams 
in  1  liter  of  water  (about  1  teaspoonful  to  a  quart  of  water). 

Washing  or  Sal  Soda 

Na2C03,  10H2O.  An  alkali,  soluble  in  water.  Strong 
reaction,  therefore: 

Unsuitable  for  colored  clothes;  hardens  and  yellows 
woolens. 

Good  for  soaking  of  coarse  dirty  clothes;  it  should  be  dis- 
solved in  water  before  adding  to  water  for  soaking. 

Softens  water  and  dissolves  grease  and  acts  on  dirt, 
rendering  both  removable  by  water. 

Alkaline  base  for  soaps. 

Care:  Keep  in  covered  jar,  as  it  effloresces  in  dry  air. 

Kerosene 

Colorless  liquid.  Manufacture:  Crude  Petroleum 
obtained  by  boring  tube  wells  through  shale  into  sand  rock; 
refined.  Products:  Naphthas,  including  benzine  and 
gasoline,  kerosene  or  coal  oil,  vaseline  and  paraffin  and 
lubricating  oils. 

Has  solvent  and  bleaching  property. 

Uses:  As  fuel;  in  so-called  naphtha  soaps;  to  clean  rust 
from  irons,  lampblack,  stains  from  wringer,  spots  from 
porcelain;  in  starch  to  give  gloss;  in  boiling  process,  two 
tablespoons,  saves  rubbing,  but  necessitates  thorough 
rinsing. 


62  Laundering. 

Ether  and  Chloroform 

(C2H5)2O.  Ether  and  chloroform  used  as  anesthetics,  but 
of  importance  in  cleaning  on  account  of  solvent  powers. 

Ether  manufacture:  Strong  sulphuric  acid  on  alcohol. 
Very  volatile,  boils  at  35°  C.,  soluble  in  water. 

Ether  magnesia  for  stains:  Mix  calcined  magnesia  with 
enough  ether  to  make  paste.  Spread  over  spot.  After 
ether  has  evaporated,  brush  magnesia  from  garment  and 
rub  with  piece  of  soft  white  bread. 

CHCls.  Chloroform:  Heavy,  clear,  colorless  liquid, 
sweet  burning  taste;  boils  at  61°  C.  Solvent  for  iodine, 
wax,  etc.  Should  be  kept  well  covered  and  in  a  dark  place. 

Uses  in  cleaning : 

Chloroform  solvent  for  fats,  alkaloids  and  iodine;  ether 
for  these  and  also  resins,  etc. 

Chloroform  is  non-inflammable,  so  safer  to  use  than  ether, 
which  is  both  inflammable  and  explosive. 

Dry  cleaners  use  these  chemicals  for  spotting  agents. 
They  must  be  absolutely  chemically  pure  or  they  may  make 
stains. 

Ether  used  in  combination  with  other  ingredients  to  make 
cleaning  fluids.  One  for  leather  tissues :  One  part  ether  to 
four  parts  turpentine. 

Price  prohibits  extensive  use,  especially  since  benzine  is 
much  cheaper  and  very  efficient. 

Chloroform,  like  ether,  may  extract  color. 

Turpentine 

CioHi6.  A  resinous  exudation  from  trees  like  pines ;  found 
notably  in  section  of  Mediterranean.  It  is  a  solvent,  having 
special  power  on  varnish,  paint  and  vaseline.  It  may  be 
used  in  place  of  paraffin  in  making  starch. 


Washing  Agents.  63 

Paraffin,  Gasoline,  Benzine 

Hydrocarbons  are  obtained  in  the  distillation  of  crude 
petroleum.  Volatile,  but  have  a  disagreeable  odor  which 
clings  to  clothes  unless  hung  for  a  time  in  the  open  air. 
Very  inflammable. 

Used  as  a  grease  solvent  and  for  cleaning  metal  work  of 
machinery. 

Crude  petroleum  yields  gasoline  of  all  gravities. 

Formerly  gasoline  disposed  of  as  waste  in  effort  to  make 
kerosene. 

Lowest  gravity  is  highly  volatile  because  it  is  so  nearly 
gas  that  when  exposed  to  air  it  evaporates  very  rapidly. 
Cannot  be  confined  in  barrels  by  any  care — paint,  wax, 
etc. — so  is  not  put  out  commercially  in  this  form. 

CLEANING. 

"Dry  cleaning" — cleaning  without  water.  Removes 
grease,  because  it  is  a  solvent  for  fatty  materials. 

Gasoline  should  be  colorless,  mobile,  leave  no  residue  on 
evaporation.  Its  great  danger  is  inflammability.  Dry 
cleaners  mix  it  with  carbon  tetrachloride,  a  grease  solvent, 
leaving  no  ring.  Very  expensive  and  has  anesthetic  effect 
on  workers. 

Benzine,  if  not  free  from  water,  will  form  damp  spots  on 
garment,  which  retain  their  dirt  and  also  attract  dirt  from 
immediate  surroundings.  Pure  benzine  should  have  violet 
color  when  treated  with  potassium  iodide. 

Benzine  soaps — rubbed  on  soiled  spots  before  garment  is 
put  into  machine  for  cleaning  helps  much.  In  the  absence 
of  a  special  soap,  any  white  soap  may  be  used  with  gasoline. 
Use  no  water. 

All  work  with  benzine  should  be  done  in  airy  rooms,  in 


64  Laundering. 

daylight,  and  in  rooms  free  from  all  flames.  Best  to  have  a 
separate  building.  Do  not  clean  gloves  on  the  hands. 

Pour  used  gasoline  on  porous  soil  to  be  quickly  absorbed. 
It  kills  grass. 

Purification  of  benzine  after  using:  Filter  through  sand 
and  sawdust ;  this  removes  mechanically  all  gritty  material. 

Storage  of  naphtha — in  separate  building  or  outside.  Two 
things  to  guard  against:  (1)  loss  from  evaporation,  and 
(2)  danger  from  fire. 

Alcohol 

CH3OH.  Wood  spirit;  destructive  distillate  from  wood. 
Used  to  dissolve  resins,  fats,  oils,  etc.,  and  in  making  aniline. 

C2H5OH.  Commercial  alcohol ;  made  by  fermentation  of 
glucose  and  distillation  of  products.  Colorless,  mobile 
liquid.  Denatured  alcohol — methylated  spirit.  Wood  and 
denatured  alcohol  are  poisonous.  Alcohol  burns  readily 
with  blue  flame,  producing  great  heat  and  liberating  CO2 
and  H2O. 

Alcohol  used  as  a  grease  solvent  by  warming  it  over 
water. 

Acetic  Acid 

CHsCOOH.  Important  organic  acid.  Found  in  vinegar. 
Commercial:  Fifty  per  cent  solution,  colorless,  having 
pleasant  odor  and  sharp  taste.  Excellent  solvent  for  many 
drugs. 

It  is  useful  in  laundry  to  set  colors,  and  for  the  removal 
of  glue  stains.  It  is  used  to  develop  some  aniline  blues. 

Citric  Acid 

(CH2)2COH(COOH)3.  Colorless  crystals,  not  soluble  in 
ether.  First  obtained  by  Karl  W.  Scheele  in  1784  from 


Washing  Agents.  65 

juice  of  lemon.     Also  found  in  many  other  fruits  and  in 
some  bulbs  and  tubers. 

Used  as  a  bleach  and  will  remove  iron  rust.  It  is  not  as 
strong  as  oxalic  acid. 

Hydrochloric  Acid 

HC1.  Muriatic  acid.  Colorless  gas,  having  pungent 
odor  and  taste.  Fumes  strongly  when  exposed  to  air.  Com- 
mercial product  is  gas  dissolved  in  water;  this  commercial 
product  usually  yellow  and  contains  impurities,  as  arsenic, 
sulphuric  acid,  chlorine,  ferric  chloride  and  sulphurous  acid. 
Never  used  by  launderers. 

Hypochlorous  acid,  by-product  of  HC1  industry,  used  in 
laundry  for  bleaching. 

HC1  used  for  iron-rust  stains  by  diluting  with  equal 
quantity  of  water. 

Oxalic  Acid 

(COOH)2,  H20.  Oldest  known  organic  acid.  Found  in 
many  plants,  as  wood,  some  rhubarb  roots.  Poisonous, 
and  care  should  be  taken  to  label  it  plainly.  . 

Used  in  laundry  to  extract  iron  rust,  and  as  bleach,  either 
alone  or  with  potassium  permanganate.  Used  to  clean 
straw  hats,  but  should  be  most  thoroughly  rinsed  out.  Used 
to  clean  metal  washing  machines.  For  stains  dilute  by 
equal  quantity  of  water;  for  washing  machine  use  four  to 
six  ounces  for  100-shirt  washer. 

Waxes 

Allied  to  fatty  acids  and  oils,  but  distinguished  from  them 
by  absence  of  glycerin.  Vegetable  origin — wax  tree,  whose 
fruit  has  waxy  covering;  bayberries.  Anipial  origin — bees. 


'66  Laundering. 

Beeswax  is  solid  fatty  substance  secreted  by  bees  in  con- 
structing hives,  and  composed  of  three  chemical  principles — 
myricin,  cerin  and  cerilein.  It  undergoes  bleaching  in  the 
sun.  Sold  either  yellow  or  white.  Costs  about  sixty  cents 
per  pound. 

Used  in  laundry  for  cleaning  irons  and  as  a  coating  on 
irons  to  prevent  rust. 


CHAPTER  V 
PREPARATION  OF  THE  WASH 

From  the  laundry  point  of  view,  Tuesday  is  a  much 
better  home  laundry  day,  because  it  allows  Monday  for 
preparation.  The  preparation  does  much  to  economize 
effort  and  time  on  the  busy  day. 

Mending  is  considered  the  first  stage  of  preparation.  .  Often 
a  stitch  before  the  wash  saves  nine  after. 

All  mending  of  table  linen,  bureau  scarfs,  trimming 
on  underwear  and  children's  dresses  can  easily  be  done 
before  the  washing.  Again,  it  saves  wrinkling  the  well- 
ironed  garment.  Stockings  and  underwear  are  easily 
mended  after,  and  it  is  usually  preferred  to  do  so.  If 
the  clothes  are  to  be  sent  out,  counting  and  marking 
will  be  necessary. 

Counting,  if  goods  are  sent  to  a  commercial  laundry,  may 
be  made  easy  by  good  laundry  list  pads.  Two  lists 
should  be  made,  one  for  the  laundry  and  one  for  refer- 
ence. Be  careful  that  the  count  is  accurate,  as  this  is 
the  only  way  to  avoid  loss. 

Marking  may  be  done  before  the  new  piece  is  put  into  use, 
and  if  well  marked  the  mark  will  last  as  long  as  the 
garment.  There  are  many  ways  to  mark,  but  the 
best  way  is  the  one  that  is  least  conspicuous  and  most 
lasting. 

Pen  and  ink  on  linen  tape  or  Cash  tapes  are  the  best 
and  the  neatest.     Embroidered  initials  and  monograms 
(67) 


68  Laundering. 

are  of  course  the  most  ornamental,  but  they  involve 
much  work  and  are  not  the  most  lasting. 

A  fine-pointed  steel  pen  (No.  00)  or  a  glass  pen  will 
make  marking  easy.  To  make  the  "marking  more 
lasting,  the  dressing  should  be  washed  out  or  rubbed 
soft  to  allow  the  ink  to  penetrate  the  fabric,  and  a 
warm  iron  should  follow  the  marking  to  set  some  inks. 
Read  directions  on  the  bottles. 

Marking  inks  may  be  purchased  in  small  bottles  or 
in  pound  or  quart  quantities  for  institutional  work. 

Payson,  Carter,  Stafford  and  all  ink  manufacturers 
put  out  good  indelible  inks  and  several  have  little 
marking  outfits  which  sell  for  a  small  sum  and  contain 
ink,  marking  frame  and  suitable  pens. 

For  institutions  the  marking  is  done  by  a  marking 
machine  which  is  like  a  typewriter.  The  ink  for  such 
a  machine  is  specially  prepared  and  is  lasting  in  its 
color. 

Sorting  is  an  important  stage  in  the  process  of  preparing. 
A  good  sorter  sorts  for  color,  putting  pinks  and  blues, 
etc.,  in  their  color  pile;  sorts  for  separation  of  woolens 
and  silks  from  cotton  and  linen  and  always  puts  in  a 
pile  those  garments  which  need  special  care  in  launder- 
ing— perhaps  being  washed  by  themselves  to  save  from 
tearing  or  pulling  or  for  special  temperature  of  water. 

This  is  sorting  for  colors  and  fabrics,  but  another 
important  division  must  be  made  which  is  not  dependent 
upon  fabric  or  color — that  is,  sorting  for  a  preliminary 
treatment  all  stained  garments  which  may  have  their 
stains  permanently  established  if  allowed  to  reach  soap 
and  water. 

For  stains  see  chapter  on  Stains. 


CHAPTER  VI 
PROCESS  OF  WASHING  ALL  WHITE  CLOTHES 

Method  of  Washing : 

Soaking.  Bluing.  Stretching. 

Washing.  Starching.  Folding. 

Rinsing.  Hanging.  Ironing. 

Boiling.  Drying.  Folding. 

Rinsing.  Sprinkling. 

Soaking  Clothes. — With  the  cleaner  clothes,  soaking  is  less 
necessary,  but  clothing  that  is  soaked  requires  less 
rubbing  and  saves  not  only  the  fabric  but  the  worker's 
time  and  energy.  Unless  one  is  sure  that  no  stains 
exist,  soak  the  clothing  in  cold  water  without  soap. 
Soap  may  set  stains. 

Washing. — This  is  a  mechanical  means  of  removing  dirt  in 
which  a  clothes  board  or  washing  machine  is  used  and 
the  clothes  are  rubbed  or  agitated  in  soapy  water  to 
remove  the  dirt.  If  some  of  the  clothes  are  very  heavy 
and  dirty,  they  may  be  cleaned  with  a  short,  small 
scrubbing  brush.  This  is  good  for  junipers,  overalls 
and  corsets.  The  clothes  are  washed  first  on  the  right 
side  and  then  are  turned  and  washed  on  the  wrong  side. 
If  clothes  have  been  soaked  over  night,  on  wash- 
day morning  wring  them  out  of  this  water.  Then  fill 
the  tub  half  full  of  hot  water  and  put  in  the  clothes, 
rub  with  soap,  and  wash.  Turn  wrong  side  during  wash- 
ing so  both  sides  may  be  clean.  When  washed,  wring 
(69) 


70  Laundering. 

from  this  water,  rinse  and  soap  the  articles,  and  place 
in  the  boiler  if  they  are  to  be  boiled. 

Rinsing. — After  the  washing,  the  clothes  may  be  rinsed  in 
clear  water  so  as  to  remove  any  loose  dirt  before  putting 
them  into  the  boiler.  Rinsing  floats  off  dirt  loosened 
by  rubbing. 

Boiling. — The  clothes,  after  being  rinsed,  are  wrung  and 
soaped  all  over,  and  placed  in  the  boiler  with  clean 
cold  water.  Do  not  pack  so  solidly  as  to  prevent 
floating.  Small  pieces  of  soap  may  be  thrown  into  the 
boiler  for  suds,  as  good  suds  are  necessary.  After  com- 
ing to  a  boil  the  clothes  should  boil  briskly  for  five 
minutes.  A  scum  will  not  form  if  sufficient  soap  has 
been  used  to  soften  the  water. 

Stir  and  press  clothes  down  in  boiler  with  a  clothes 
stick.  When  clothes  are  scalded  (five  minutes  boil  is 
sufficient  for  most  clothes)  take  out  of  boiler  with  a 
stick,  place  in  a  tub  of  clean  hot  water,  then  cool  water. 
No  special  point  in  very  cold  rinse  water. 

When  the  first  set  of  clothes  is  scalding,  rub  out  the 
second,  in  the  same  manner,  and  then  continue  with  the 
third,  until  all  the  clothes  are  washed.  The  boiler 
should  have  clean  water  each  time. 

Rinsing  is  again  necessary  after  boiling  because  plenty  of 
water  and  thorough  rinsing  are  essential  to  good  work. 
It  is  better  to  rinse  in  two  clear  waters  before  putting 
into  the  blue  water.  The  first  rinse  should  be  hot  to 
remove  soap  and  greasy  scum,  the  second  should  be 
cool  to  prepare  the  clothes  for  the  blue.  Clothes  should 
always  be  rinsed  well  before  bluing,  as  the  soap  and  blue 
may  combine  and  cause  iron-rust  spotting.  It  is  not 


Process  of  Washing  all  White  Clothes.  71 

possible  to  over-rinse;  in  fact,  three  rinses  before  bluing 
are  better  than  two.  Gray,  grimy  clothes  are  usually 
poorly  rinsed  clothes. 

Bluing. — Blue  water  is  made  by  adding  blue  to  clear  cool 
water.  If  lumps,  balls  or  blocks  of  blue  are  used,  they 
should  be  tied  in  a  cloth  and  then  rubbed  in  the  water 
until  the  water  is  the  required  color.  Test  by  holding 
in  the  palm  of  the  hand  or  by  bluing  a  small  garment. 
Blue  water  should  not  be  too  deep  in  color.  The  bag 
of  bluing  should  be  tightly  squeezed  before  putting  it 
away,  to  prevent  the  wasting  of  the  blue,  or  else  kept  in 
a  cup  and  this  liquid  used  the  next  time.  Blues  vary,  so 
it  is  impossible  to  give  a  definite  amount,  but  use  will 
soon  teach.  In  making  the  bluing,  the  water  should  be 
well  stirred  each  time  before  more  blue  is  added.  The 
clothes  should  be  opened  well  before  going  into  the 
bluing,  so  that  they  will  not  be  streaked  with  blue. 
The  clothes,  if  quite  yellow,  may  remain  in  the  blue 
water  longer — -otherwise  one  or  two  dippings  in  water 
is  enough.  The  water  should  be  well  stirred  every  time 
the  clothes  are  added,  as  the  blue  may  settle  to  the 
bottom,  and  streak  tr.e  clothes.  After  bluing,  the 
clothes  are  wrung  and  are  then  starched,  or  not,  as  is 
necessary,  and  then  hung. 

(See  chapter  on  Blues  and  Bluing.) 

Starching. — Thickness  of  starch  depends  upon  the  articles 
to  be  starched.  Starch  is  used:  (1)  for  stiffening 
clothes;  (2)  to  make  them  look  well  by  giving  the 
gloss  of  new  material;  (3)  to  keep  them  clean  longer, 
because  starch  causes  them  to  resist  moisture.  Borax 
is  added  to  starch  to  give  a  gloss  and  to  whiten  and 
stiffen  the  clothes.  The  wax,  paraffin  or  lard  added  to 
starch  serves  to  keep  the  iron  from  sticking. 


72  Laundering. 

Garments  that  are  raw  starched  are  harder  to  iron. 
In  using  raw  starch,  Ihe  articles  should  be  first  dried 
so  that  they  take  up  enough  starch  to  make  them 
stiff.  Use  raw  starch  by  keeping  it  well  stirred,  wring 
out  all  surplus  and  roll  collars  and  cuffs  in  a  cloth  to 
stand  about  one  hour  before  ironing.  Raw  starching 
increases  the  work  of  ironing  so  much  that  heavy 
starching  takes  its  place  in  most  laundries. 

(See  chapter  on  Starch  and  Starching.) 

Hanging  is  best  in  the  open  air.  The  line  should  be  secure, 
perfectly  clean  and  the  pins  clean.  Keep  both  line  and 
pins  in  a  bag  when  not  in  use.  Wipe  carefully  wire 
lines.  Always  shake  the  garments  well,  hang  straight, 
and  with  the  wind,  i.  e.,  so  the  wind  will  blow  through 
the  garment  rather  than  against  it,  and  for  efficiency's 
sake,  hang  like  garments  together. 

Drying. — After  clothes  have  been  blued  and  starched,  if  they 
are  to  be,  they  should  be  hung  out  to  dry.  Table  linen 
and  bedding  should  be  washed  first,  as  they  take  no 
starch  and  can  be  gotten  quickly  to  the  line. 

Every  piece  of  clothing  turned  wrong  side  out  for 
starching  is  hung  to  dry  that  way. 

Hang  articles  of  the  same  kind  together.  White 
clothes  should  be  hung  in  the  sun,  colored  clothes  and 
flannels  in  the  shade.  Fasten  by  bands  if  possible, 
never  by  corners,  as  the  strain  is  apt  to  tear  the  gar- 
ment. Care  should  be  taken  to  have  clothes  well 
pinned  to  the  line  to  avoid  loss  and  to  avoid  tearing. 
If  enough  of  the  garment  is  laid  over  the  line  before 
pinning  there  will  be  less  danger  from  tearing  than 
if  just  corners  and  edges  are  pinned.  Starched  articles 
are  better  not  hung  in  a  strong  wind,  as  it  takes  the 
starch  out  of  the  fabric. 


Process  of  Washing  all  White  Clothes.  73 

Sprinkling.— Clothes  are  sprinkled,  stretched  into  shape, 
rolled  and  allowed  to  stand  an  hour  or  so,  sometimes 
over  night,  before  ironing.  Handkerchiefs,  napkins 
and  towels  should  be  folded,  sprinkled  and  rolled  to- 
gether to  have  the  moisture  more  evenly  distributed 
and  to  prevent  rapid  drying.  Warm  water  penetrates 
the  fabric  more  quickly  than  cold,  and  if  sprayed  on 
from  a  spray  nozzle,  whisk  broom  or  clothes  sprinkler 
the  work  is  much  easier  than  the  hand  or  ringer  method. 
Roll  tightly,  being  careful  to  fold  in  all  lace,  embroidery 
and  tucks,  press  or  pound  the  rolls  to  distribute  the 
moisture,  and  place  the  rolls  close  together  in  a  basket 
lined  with  heavy,  clean  white  cloth.  Any  stretching 
necessary  should  be  done  after  the  clothes  are  damp 
from  sprinkling. 

In  warm,  muggy  weather  it  will  be  found  safer  to 
sprinkle  the  clothes  early  on  ironing  morning,  as  this 
warm,  moist  condition  may  cause  mildew  to  grow.  If 
mildew  does  form  it  may,  in  its  early  stage,  be  washed 
off,  but  it  must  be  very  freshly  formed.  Otherwise 
see  Mildew — chapter  on  Stains,  page  33. 

Ironing. — Certain  rules  will  help  the  ironer,  but  it  is  an  art, 
and  the  best  results  will  only  come  from  the  practice  of 
frequent  doing.  All  embroideries  and  laces  should  be 
ironed  on  the  wrong  side  with  a  soft  pad  underneath  so 
the  pattern  may  sink  into  the  pad  and  not  be  flattened 
by  the  iron.  Tucks  should  be  pulled  taut  and  ironed 
lengthwise,  and  at  the  same  time  downward  from  top 
tuck  to  bottom  tuck.  Iron  dry  each  part  before  begin- 
ning a  new  part.  Goods  left  half  dry  or  half  ironed  will 
pucker  and  look  rough  dry  when  finished.  Ruffles 
should  be  ironed  by  ironing  straight  on  the  hem  edge 


74  Laundering. 

and  then  by  ironing  up  into  the  gathers.  "Nose" 
the  iron  well  between  the  gathers.  A  small  pointed 
iron  will  assist  in  this  work.  Sleeves,  ruffles,  in  fact 
all  parts  of  the  garment  that  may  be  ironed  and  allowed 
to  hang  over  the  board,  should  be  done  first.* 

All  hems,  tucks  and  bands  require  extra  pressing,  as 
they  are  thick.  Use  heavy  broad  irons  for  heavy  bed- 
ding and  table  linen,  and  lighter,  more  pointed  irons 
for  body  clothes.  The  irons  should  be  smooth  and.  very 
clean  and  sufficiently  hot  to  "hiss"  when  touched  with 
the  moistened  finger.  An  iron  is  too  cool  when  the 
moisture  does  not  turn  instantly  into  steam,  and  may 
be  seen  to  bubble  on  the  iron.  An  iron  that  is  too  hot 
will  cause  the  moisture  to  evaporate  so  instantly  there 
will  be  scarcely  a  sound.  Beware  of  this  kind,  as  it 
means  scorch,  which  of  course  is  more  or  less  injurious 
to  the  fabric. 

Folding. — Care  should  be  taken  to  fold  clothes  according  to 
directions  given  under  special  chapters.  Much  depends 
on  the  folding.  Let  hang  to  air.  Draw  clothes-horse 
near  the  table,  and  fold  garment  by  laying  it  first  on  the 
table  and  then  into  its  particular  fold.  Clothing  to  be 
mended  should  be  set  to  one  side,  and  in  this  way  there 
is  no  need  of  unnecessary  unfolding  and  folding  to  look 
for  mending,  and  again  none  escapes. 


CHAPTER  VII 
TABLE  LINEN  AND  BED  LINEN 

TABLE  LINEN 
Stains. — Fruit. 

Tea  and  coffee. 
Chocolate. 

Grease:  cream,  oil,  gravy. 
Iron  rust. 

Meat  juice,  gravy,  soup. 
Vegetable. 
To  remove,  see  chapter  on  Stains. 

Soaking. — -Soak  table  linen  one-half  hour  in  lukewarm  or 
cold  water  without  soap.  Do  not  use  hot  water,  as  it 
will  set  some  stains. 

Washing. — Table  linen  does  not  need  much  rubbing,  because 
it  is  rarely  very  soiled,  and  again  the  looseness  of  the 
fabric  makes  it  easily  cleaned  if  the  stains  have  been 
removed.  It  should  be  washed  on  both  sides  with  care 
not  to  omit  sections.  The  clothes-wringer  should  be 
loosened  for  all  table  linen,  as  the  material  is  soft  and 
creases  easily. 
Boiling  I 

Rinsing  J-  See  pages  70-71. 
Bluing    J 

For  table  linen,  the  blue  water  should  not  be  as  deep 
in  color  as  for  other  fabrics,  because  of  the  softness  of 
the  material. 

Table  linen  is  not  starched  except  perhaps  to  make 
poor  linen  look  like  a  better  quality. 
(75) 


76 


Laundering. 


Fold  No.  II. 
THE  FOLDING  OP  TABLE  LINEN. 


Table  Linen  and  Bed  Linen.  77 

Hanging. — All  table  linen  should  be  well  stretched  and  hung 
very  straight.  It  is  found  better  to  hang  a  third  or  a 
half  of  the  tablecloth  or  napkin  over  the  line,  as  pinning 
from  the  corners  causes  tearing.  Good  hanging  does 
much  to  hasten  the  ironing. 

Sprinkling. — Table  linen  may  be  taken  from  the  line  when 
half  dry.  The  even  dampness  secured  by  this  method 
especially  facilitates  good  ironing.  Dried  table  linen 
should  be  thoroughly  and  evenly  sprinkled.  In  either 
case  fold  evenly,  roll  tightly  and  wrap  in  a  heavy  cloth. 
A  heavy,  hot  iron  on  such  damp  linen  will  develop  a 
gloss,  and  the  pattern  will  shine  prettily  if  ironed  until 
dry. 

Ironing. — Use  heavy  irons  and  iron  dry.  Fold  table  linen 
by  folding  selvages  together.  They  may  be  folded  with 
either  three  or  four  lengthwise  folds.  See  chart,  page  76, 
I  and  II.  Napkins  should  be  ironed  partly  dry  on  the 
wrong  side,  and  then,  when  ironed  on  the  right  side, 
ironed  dry.  Fold  all  edges  very  evenly,  except  when 
folding  the  lengthwise  folds  in  half.  Here  the  upper 
half  should  be  drawn  back  about  one-half  inch;  other- 
wise, in  making  the  last  fold  this  part  will  be  pushed 
out  about  that  distance,  making  the  edges  uneven. 
This  applies  equally  to  table  cloths,  .sheets  and  handker- 
chiefs. Embroidery  should  be  ironed  on  the  wrong 
side,  on  an  embroidery  pad,  or  folded  clean  soft  cloth. 
Doylies  may  have  the  fringe  brushed  with  a  strong 
whisk  broom,  rather  than  combed,  which  tears  the 
fringe,  then  trimmed  evenly  with  scissors.  Tray  cloths 
should  be  folded  in  three  folds  if  it  is  necessary  to  fold 
them.  It  is  better  to  lay  them  flat,  or  roll  around  a 
paper  roll. 


78  Laundering. 

Embroidered  Centerpieces  may  be  washed  as  colored  goods, 
because  of  the  colored  embroidery  silk  often  used,  or  as 
white  goods.  After  considering  this  point,  if  it  is  like 
colored  clothing,  see  Chapter  IX.  The  ironing  often 
gives  the  most  trouble;  no  matter  what  the  shape  of 
the  centerpiece,  iron  in  straight  lines,  straight  with 
the  fiber  of  the  goods,  being  sure  to  iron  dry  before 
beginning  a  new  portion.  Centerpieces  with  little  or 
no  embroidery,  but  with  wide  lace  borders,  like  Cluny 
centerpieces,  should  have  the  linen  center  stretched 
taut  and  held  in  shape  with  pins  placed  close  together. 
Having  pinned  the  center,  stretch  the  lace  border  into 
shape,  and  pin  carefully.  Let  the  whole  remain  this 
way  until  perfectly  dry,  then  no  ironing  will  be  neces- 
sary, except,  perhaps,  if  one  wishes  to  have  the  linen 
glazed.  For  pinning,  see  chapter  on  Laces. 

BED  LINEN 
Stains. — Vaseline. 
Medicine. 
Iron  rust. 
Blood. 
Ink. 
See  chapter  on  Stains. 

Soaking. — Soak  half  an  hour  with  soap  in  lukewarm  water, 
after  stains  have  been  removed. 

Washing. — Bed  linen  should  be  washed  on  both  sides,  with 
care  to  wash  regularly  from  one  side  to  the  other.  Pil- 
low cases  should  be  turned  wrong  side  out  in  the  wash- 
ing, and  then  left  in  that  condition  until  folded  for 
sprinkling.  In  washing  bed  linen  the  hems  require  the 
most  care.  They  should  be  well  soaped  and  rubbed. 


Table  Linen  and  Bed  Linen.  79 

Boiling  I 

Rinsing  Y  See  pages  70-71. 

Bluing    J 

Hanging. — Sheets  may  be  hung  as  a  table  cloth.  Pillow 
cases  are  hung  by  the  seam  opposite  the  hems.  If 
opened  to  the  wind,  they  are  liable  to  be  torn,  as  there 
is  no  opening  opposite. 

Sprinkling  and  Folding. — In  sprinkling,  give  especial  atten- 
tion to  hems,  not  sprinkling  the  middle  of  sheets  so 
heavily.  Sheets  are  folded  in  fourths  lengthwise,  hav- 
ing selvages  together,  and  then  in  fourths  crosswise. 
Some  prefer  to  fold  the  hems  together.  Pillow  cases 
are  turned  right  side  out. 

Ironing. — Care  should  be  exercised  in  ironing  hems.  The 
sheets  may  be  folded  with  the  ordinary  fold,  or  may  be 
folded  the  same  as  table  cloths.  (See  chart  under  Table 
Linen,  page  76.)  Pillow  cases  should  be  ironed  very 
smooth,  and  if  there  is  embroidery  on  them  it  should 
be  ironed  first,  and  on  the  wrong  side.  Always  iron 
the  case  itself  by  beginning  in  the  corner  where  the 
side  and  end  seams  meet ;  iron  from  the  side  seam  across 
the  case.  The  cases  should  be  folded  in  thirds — that 
is,  with  only  two  creases — and  the  middle  third  fold  is 
folded  out  unless  the  mark  requires  a  different  finish. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
BODY  LINEN 

BODY  LINEN— WHITE 

Drawers.  Handkerchiefs.        Aprons. 

Night  dresses.          Corset  covers.          Skirts. 

Waists,  dresses.       Shirts.  Knitted  underwear, 

Stains. — Grease. 
Blood. 
Iron  rust. 
Medicine. 
Ink. 

Perspiration. 
See  chapter  on  Stains. 

Soaking. — After  removing  stains,  soak  one-half  hour  in 
lukewarm  water  with  soap. 

Washing. — Wash  in  clean  warm  water  and  soap.  Wash  on 
the  right  side  and  turn  and  wash  all  garments  on  the 
wrong  side.  To  do  this,  drawers,  night  dresses,  chemises 
and  sleeves  of  waists  are  turned  inside  out  and  washed. 
Soap  the  bottom  hems,  seams,  bands,  and  neck  well,  as 
they  are  thicker  and  get  most  wear.  It  is  the  inside  of 
body  clothes  that  is  most  soiled.  In  putting  through 
the  wringer,  turn  the  buttons  inside,  and  keep  them  flat 
so  as  not  to  force  them  off,  or  tear  holes  where  sewed. 

Boiling. — Soap  bands,  seams  and  hems  well  before  boiling. 

Rinsing. — Use  hot  water  and  then  cold. 

(80) 


Body  Linen. 


81 


Bluing. — See  page  71.  Garments  that'are  lace-trimmed  will 
require  less  bluing,  because  the^softness  of  the  lace 
makes  it  most  susceptible  to  blue. 


THE  FOLDING  OP  CORSET  COVERS. 

Starching. — A  little  starch  in  the  trimming  and  tucks  will 
make  the  ironing  easier  and  more  finished  and  will  help 
to  keep  the  garment  clean  longer.  It  need  in  no  way  be 
stiff  or  scratchy. 


82 


Laundering. 


THE  FOLDING  OF  CHEMISES. 


Body  Linen.  83 

For  the  trimming,  the  starch  should  be  thinner  than 
for  the  body  of  the  garments. 

J  tbs.  of  wheat  starch.  1  qt.  water. 

For  body  of  garments  use : 

1.J  tbs.  wheat  starch.  1  qt.  water. 

For  aprons : 

2\  tbs.  of  wheat  starch.  1  qt.  water. 

Less  of  corn  starch  for  each  recipe.     See  table,  page  52. 
Have  starch  strained  ard  use  very  hot. 
Have  garment  wrong  side  out. 
Starch:   Cuffs  and  yoke  cf  nightdress. 
Hems  and  tucks  cf  drawers. 
All  of  corset  cover  with  thin  starch. 
Ruffle  of  skirt,  or  sometimes  the  lower  half. 
All  of  apron. 

All  of  dress  or  waist  with  thin  starch. 
Wring  as  dry  as  possible  and  rub  in  with  the  fingers. 
A  well -starched  garment  should  show  no  surplus  starch, 
as  whatever  is  not  wrung  out  should  be  rubbed  in. 

Hanging. — Hang  wrong  side  out  and  with  the  wind: 
Nightdress,  by  one  side  of  lower  hem. 
Skirt,  by  one  side  of  lower  hem. 
Drawers,  by  the  band. 
Corset  covers,  by  one  of  fronts,  or  thrown  over  the 

line  and  pinned  by  middle  seam  of  back. 
Apron,  by  the  band. 
Dress,  by  hem  or  wherever  least  strain. 
Waist,  and  shirt,  by  bottom  hem. 

Sprinkling. — Sprinkle  the  body  of  the  underclothes  well,  but 
not  too  heavily.     Rub  the  lace  and  trimming  between 


84  Laundering. 

the  fingers,  which  have  been  dipped  in  water.  Both 
hems  and  trimming  should  be  well  sprinkled;  the  hems, 
because  they  are  thick,  and  the  trimming  because  it  is 
thin  and  likely  to  dry  quickly. 

Folding. — Lay  trimming  all  inside  and  fold  in  the  hems 
before  folding  the  garment.  Roll  smoothly  and  tightly. 

Ironing. — Iron  embroidery  on  a  pad  and  on  wrong  side. 
Iron  all  garments  quickly,  ironing  dry  as  large  a  space 
at  one  time  as  is  possible.  Iron  buttons  on  the  wrong 
side.  If  clothes  are  too  dry,  use  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth 
wet  in.  clear  water  for  dampening. 

In  ironing  nightdress,  iron  the  embroidery  and  tucks 
on  the  sleeve,  then  the  sleeves.  Then  iron  the  yoke, 
the  body  of  the  nightdress,  running  the  iron  well  into 
the  gathers,  and  then  fold. 

In  ironing  drawers,  iron  the  trimming,  tucks,  the 
band  and  then  the  body.  Ironing  the  body  of  night- 
dress and  drawers  may  be  done  more  quickly  by  iron- 
ing double  as  a  pillow  case  is  ironed. 

Corset  covers  should  be  ironed  with  smaller  iron, 
and  between  the  seams. 

In  ironing  skirts,  the  ruffle  is  ironed  first,  and  then 
may  be  laid  back  without  wrinkling  while  the  hem 
of  the  skirt  is  ironed.  Iron  the  band,  then  the  body. 
Do  not  fold  the  skirt  at  once,  but  hang  to  dry,  as  the 
folds  are  usually  damp. 

Aprons  will  hang  better  if  ironed  from  hem  up  to 
gathers  rather  than  finishing  whole  hem  across  first 
and  then  doing  next  section  and  then  gathers.  Bibs 
and  strings  should  be  ironed  before  the  skirt  of  the 
apron  and  will  look  better  if  ironed  on  both  sides,  by 
ironing  half  dry  on  wrong  side  and  finished  by  ironing 
on  right  side. 


Body  Linen. 


85 


THE  FOLDING  OF  NIGHT  DRESSES. 


86 


Laundering. 


THE  FOLDING  OF  DRAWERS. 


Body  Linen. 


87 


THE  FOLDING  OF  SHIRTS. 


88  Laundering. 

Waists  should  have  sleeves  ironed  first,  as  they  will 
hang  out  of  the  way  while  the  rest  is  being  done.  Next 
iron  under-arm  piece  on  each  side,  then  either  front  or 
back,  whichever  is  in  two  pieces.  The  fronts  will  set 
better  if  ironed  from  shoulder  down.  Ironing  around  or 
across  the  yoke  will  make  yokes  bulge.  Ironing  up 
will  cause  pleats  at  the  shoulder. 

Handkerchiefs  are  ironed  the  same  as  napkins. 

Towels,  with  the  exception  of  those  with  non-fast 
colored  borders,  are  washed  and  boiled  as  body  linen. 
They  are  ironed  on  both  sides  and  folded  in  three  length- 
wise folds.  Finish  with  middle  third  out  unless  marking 
requires  otherwise.  The  marking  should  be  out. 

Shirts  are  well  prepared  for  ironing  by  good  starch- 
ing as  told  on  page  50.  The  iron  should  be  hot  and 
smooth;  the  shirt  bosom  thoroughly  damp,  not  wet. 
Iron  the  neck  band  first,  then  down  from  the  neck  to 
the  lower  end  of  the  bosom.  This  rule  holds  for  plain 
and  plaited  bosoms  alike.  Iron  until  dry  and  perfectly 
smooth.  The  glaze  from  the  hot  iron  and  starch  may 
be  wiped  off  with  a  damp  cheese  cloth;  a  bone  paper- 
cutter  or  any  dull  flat  surface  will  open  the  plaits. 

Collars  and  cuffs  are  ironed  like  shirt  bosoms  and 
are  best  done  by  ironing  half  dry  on  the  wrong  side, 
and  then  entirely  dry  on  the  right.  The  glaze  or  polish 
can  be  removed  from  these  in  the  sante  way  as  from 
a  shirt  front.  To  shape  collars  and  cuffs,  press  firmly 
with  the  heel  of  the  iron  and  roll  the  collar  or  cuff  over 
close  to  the  iron.  Hold  a  minute  and  the  collars  and 
cuffs  will  be  rolled.  To  turn  turn-over  cuffs  and  collars 
— when  finished  run  a  moist  cloth  which  is  held  over 
the  end  of  the  thumb  along  the  bending  line.  While 
still  damp,  turn  the  collar  or  cuffs  or  points  over,  and 
press  on  the  wrong  side  with  the  iron. 


Body  Linen.  89 

Knitted  Underwear  may  be  washed  as  white  goods,  as 
woolen  goods,  or  as  silk.  All  underwear  depending 
on  the  fiber  should  be  pressed  with  a  warm  iron  to 
soften  and  shape  it. 

Stockings  should  be  washed  in  clean  water  and  not  in  water 
which  is  full  of  lint  from  other  clothing.  Wash  on  the 
right  side,  giving  special  attention  to  the  foot;  turn 
and  wash  on  the  wrong  side.  Stockings  require  thor- 
ough rinsing  and  should  be  hung  by  the  feet  to  dry. 
Brown  stockings  should  be  washed  by  themselves,  as 
they  usually  "bleed"  considerably.  Silk  or  woolen 
stockings  should  be  washed  as  any  silk  or  woolen  gar- 
ment. Stockings  may  be  pressed  with  a  warm  iron 
on  the  wrong  side. 

Diapers. — Cloths  of  this  nature  should  be  put  to  soak  in 
cold  water  as  soon  as  used.  To  wash,  use  a  good  soap 
and  warm  water,  boil,  rinse  thoroughly,  dry  in  sun  and 
air.  Ammonia  is  better  than  washing  powders  or 
washing  soda,  as  these  alkaline  substances  may  remain 
in  the  fabric  after  drying  and  irritate.  There  is  no 
reason  for  not  boiling  with  good  soap  if  well  rinsed. 


CHAPTER   IX 
COLORED   CLOTHES 

The  dyer  has  succeeded  in  finding  fast  dyes.  The  fast- 
ness depends  not  so  much  on  his  dye  recipe  as  upon  the 
fact  that  some  dyes  combine  with  the  materials  like  wool 
and  silk,  and  are  known  as  direct  dyes,  while  others  adhere 
to  the  fabric,  as  in  the  case  of  cotton  and  linen,  and  are 
naturally  freer  to  leave  the  fabric.  Softness  and  absorbing 
power  of  fabric  plays  an  important  part  then  in  the  dye. 
Again,  cloth  dyed  in  the  thread  is  likely  to  be  more  lasting 
in  color  than  when  dyed  in  the  piece  or  the  color  stamped 
on.  These  two  facts  show  us  we  have  an  uncertain  problem 
and  that  we  must  still  realize  that  colors  are  to  be  washed 
with  care. 

The  wisest  plan  is  to  establish  the  rule  that  will  best  suit 
all  conditions,  and  then  run  no  risk  by  attempting  what 
may  seem  a  quicker  method. 

Set  the  color  if  the  color  begins  to  bleed. 

Use  warm  water,  not  hot. 

Use  soap  free  from  alkali  and  in  solution. 

Wash  quickly. 

Hang  away  from  sunlight. 

Dry  quickly. 
These  rules,  if  followed,  will  bring  the  best  results. 

To  Set  the  Color. — Salt  is  a  good  mordant  (as  a  substance 

used  to  set  colors  is  called)  and  should  be  at  hand  to 

use  if  the  color  begins  to  bleed.     To  use  on  every  color 

is  not  necessary,  in  fact  is  a  hindrance,  as  salt  hinders 

(90) 


Colored  Clothes.  91 

the  suds.  No  definite  proportions  can  be  given,  except 
that  in  most  cases  two  cups  of  salt  to  one  gallon  of 
cold  water  will  be  enough.  More  may  be  used  until 
the  bleeding  of  the  color  stops.  Salt  may  be  used  for 
all  colors  but  is  most  effective  for  browns,  blacks  and 
pinks.  Vinegar  is  a  good  mordant  for  blues— use  one- 
half  cup  to  one  gallon  of  water.  Sugar  of  lead  (poison) 
is  best  for  lavenders — use  one  tablespoon  to  one  gallon 
of  water.  Be  careful  of  this  poison.  Its  success  hardly 
warrants  its  danger. 

Stains. — The  stains  on  colored  clothes  are  hard  to  remove 
because  the  chemical  will  probably  remove  the  color 
too.  Often  a  white  spot  is  less  noticeable*  than  the 
stain — this  must  be  decided  by  the  owner.  Stains  on 
white  goods  with  stripes  or  figures  can  be  more  easily 
removed  by  applying  the  chemical  with  a  dropper 
between  the  stripes  or  pattern  and  quickly  washing. 
To  prevent  the  chemical  from  spreading  into  the  stripes, 
it  will  be  found  possible  to  protect  them  by  applying 
a  little  soap  to  the  stripe.  This  acts  as  a  bar  over 
which  the  chemical  can  not  step.  Quick  rinsing  is  the 
best  precaution. 

Washing. — After  the  color  has  been  set,  wash  the  garment 
as  quickly  as  possible  in  warm  water  to  which  has  been 
added  enough  dissolved  white  soap  to  make  good  suds. 
This  soap  should  be  free  from  alkali,  and  because  of 
the  soda  in  most  washing  powders,  they  had  better  not 
be  used  for  colors.  If  the  color  seems  especially  sensi- 
tive, avoid  all  soaking  and  as  much  rubbing  as  possible. 
Rinse  quickly  in  two  or  three  clear  waters.  Putting 
salt  in  the  last  water  may  brighten  the  color.  Pinks, 


92  Laundering. 

lavenders,  greens  and  yellows  should  not  be  blued. 
Do  not  boil  colored  clothes,  or  at  any  time  use  water 
hotter  than  the  hand  can  bear  comfortably.  Better 
work  will  be  accomplished  by  washing  one  color  at  a 
time  and  not  combining  different  colors.  For  example, 
if  reds  and  blues  are  washed  together,  the  blue  may 
take  on  a  purple  tint. 

Starching. — The  starch  for  colored  clothes  cannot  be  as 
hot  as  for  white  clothes.  The  garment  should  be 
wrong  side  out,  the  starching  should  be  done  as  for 
white  clothes,  keeping  like  colors  together.  For  the 
best  starching  of  colored  clothes  it  is  wise  to  divide  the 
starch,  so  that  blue  garments  will  not  need  to  be 
starched  in  pink  starch,  or  vice  versa. 

Hanging. — Colored  clothes  should  be  hung  in  the  shade  to 
dry.  A  quick  drying  will  prevent  colors  in  striped  and 
figured  goods  from  running  and  spoiling  the  back- 
ground. If  one  has  time,  or  is  doing  a  very  special 
piece  of  work,  it  will  be  found  an  advantage  to  take  the 
garment  from  the  line  when  half  dry  and  iron  at  once. 
When  the  dye  seems  especially  uncertain  lay  the  gar- 
ment between  cloths  to  take  up  all  the 'extra  moisture 
and  hang  so  the  folds  do  not  touch  each  other.  For 
example,  hang  sleeves  away  from  the  rest  of  the  waist. 

Ironing. — Colored  clothes  should  be  ironed  on  the  wrong  side 
or  on  the  right  side  with  the  use  of  a  piece  of  cheese- 
cloth. This  cheese-cloth  will  prevent  the  shine  which 
is  often  seen  on  seams  and  tucks  where  the  goods  is 
thicker.  Do  not  use  too  hot  an  iron,  because  it  will 
help  to  fade  the  color. 


Colored  Clothes.  93 

SOAP  SUBSTITUTES  FOR  COLORED  CLOTHES 

Where  the  color  seems  uncertain,  soap  may  be  eliminated 
from  the  cleaning  and  with  it  will  be  eliminated  all  risk  of 
alkali  affecting  the  color. 

Bran  water  (4  cups  of  bran  to  1  gallon  of  water). 

Soap  bark  (4  cups  to  1  gallon  of  water). 

Starch  water  (3  tablespoons  of  starch  to  1  quart  of 

water). 

Cook  each  mixture  twenty  minutes,  strain  and  use  strained 
water.  These  may  be  used  in  the  wash  water  in  place  of 
the  soap  solution.  Two  waters  should  be  used,  the  one  as 
a  wash  water  and  the  second  as  a  rinse  water;  there  will  be 
enough  starch  in  the  second  water  to  give  the  clothes  a 
slight  stiffness.  In  this  case  there  should  be  no  rinsing 
with  clear  water  and  the  starch  will  be  sufficient  if  ironed 
without  drying. 

Gum  arabic  may  be  used  as  a  starch  substitute  for  stiffen- 
ing. It  will  give  the  dressing  to  the  fiber  without  the  gloss 
that  starch  gives. 


CHAPTER   X 
WOOLENS 

Wool  must  be  considered  a  delicate  fiber  because  it  is  an 
animal  fiber,  and  like  all  animal  tissue  is  sensitive  to 
heat,  friction  and  alkalis.  The  fiber  is  microscopic 
in  size  and  covered  with  scales  which  overlap.  Any 
change  of  temperature  causes  the  scales  to  fold  over 
on  themselves  and  so  shorten.  Friction  knots  them  by 
twisting  and  turning  them.  Strong  alkali  dissolves  the 
wool,  making  it  at  first  tender,  then  finally  causing  it 
to  disappear. 

These  three  facts  give  us  our  general  rules  or  prin- 
ciples to  be  followed  in  washing  all  woolens,  whether 
white  or  colored : 

I.  All  waters  should    be   of   same   temperature — 

about  110°F. 
II.  All  rubbing  or  twisting  should  be  eliminated. 

III.  Only  mild  soaps   (containing  no  excess  alkali) 

should  be  used. 

IV.  Soaps  should  be  in  solution — to  prevent  rubbing. 
V.  Borax  and  ammonia  may  be  used  to  soften  water, 

as  they  are  too  mild  to  injure  wools. 

To  Remove  Stains  from  wool,  one  is  a  bit  hindered  if  a 
bleach  seems  necessary.  Dilute  acids  do  not  injure  the 
fiber,  so  lemon  juice,  dilute  oxalic  or  dilute  hydrochloric 
acids  may  be  used  for  ink  and  iron  rust;  but  mildew, 
grass,  or  some  stubborn  stains  which  might  be  other- 
wise easily  bleached  out  with  Javelle  must  be  treated 
(94) 


Woolens.  95 

with  care.  Applying  dilute  acid  to  the  spot  first,  then 
Javelle,  allows  the  bleach  to  work  without  having 
opportunity  to  discolor  wool  if  done  rapidly  and  enough 
acid  is  used.  Potassium  permanganate  and  sulphur 
fumes  are  the  best  bleaches  for  stains  on  wool. 

Arty  chemical  will  destroy  color  in  wool  as  it  will 
in  cotton  and  linen  or  silks. 

Washing. — Woolens  should  be  brushed  or  shaken  to  free 
the  loose  dirt;  pockets  or  cuffs  turned  inside  out  and 
brushed.  Have  water  of  tepid  temperature,  and 
the  soap  dissolved  by  itself.  Add  enough  soap  solu- 
tion to  make  good  suds.  Wash  the  garment  by  a 
squeezing  motion  (sometimes  called  sousing)  and  as 
fast  as  the  water  becomes  soiled  change  to  another 
which  is  soapy  and  of  the  same  temperature  as  the 
first.  To  remove  persistent  spots  of  soil,  rub  some  scap 
solution  directly  on  the  spot  with  the  palm  of  the  hand. 
Do  this  work  thoroughly,  as  quickly  as  possible,  and 
without  any  lifting  or  pulling  which  will  stretch  the 
garment — a  precaution  necessary  with  the  knitted  type 
especially.  A  little  borax — one-half  cup  to  the  tub  of 
water — in  the  last  rinse  will  clear  up  the  white  wools. 
The  wringer  is  best  for  wools,  as  it  presses  out  the  water. 
In  its  absence  they  should  be  squeezed  dry.  Do  not 
wring  by  twisting. 

Drying. — To  consider  drying  divide  the  wools  into  two  sec- 
tions— knitted  and  woven.  Knitted  garments  should 
•  be  laid  on  a  pad  to  dry.  The  shape  and  size  can  be 
best  checked  up  by  measuring  the  shawl  or  sweater 
or  petticoat  before  wetting.  These  measures  should 
be  written  down  and  the  garment  shaped  to  these 
measures.  The  pad  should  be  made  of  several  thick- 


96  Laundering. 

nesses  of  bath  towels,  a  folded  sheet,  or  any  soft, 
absorbing  material. 

Woven  garments  should  be  stretched  and  shaped. 
A  blanket  may  be  put  in  curtain  stretchers  or  one-half 
over  the  line  so  that  the  edges  may  be  pulled  straight. 
This  is  better  than  hanging  single,  as  the  weight  of 
water  in  larger  portion  is  so  great  it  sags  the  corners. 

Brushing  the  blanket  while  drying  will  fluff  it  and  to 
a  degree  card  the  wool.  Use  a  stiff  whisk  broom  to 
brush,  and  brush  both  sides  and  one  way.  Dry  in 
moderate  temperature — not  in  the  sun — and  do  not 
allow  it  to  freeze.  Sun  burns  the  white  wool.  Freezing 
causes  shrinkage. 

Skirts  and  trousers  should  be  hung  by  the  band  and 
pulled  equally  so  that  the  entire  bottom  line  is  even. 

Cleaning  Without  Washing.— Magnesium,  fuller's  earth,  and 
starch  are  the  reagents  usually  considered  where  one 
fears  shrinkage  from  the  use  of  water,  or  where  the 
"newness"  is  to  be  retained.  They  may  be  used  for 
the  whole  garment  or  for  "spotting."  They  are  of 
little  use  in  removing  egg  or  blood  stains  as  protein  is 
not  absorbed  by  these  dry  materials.  To  clean  a  whole 
garment,  cover  well  with  the  powdered  cleanser  and 
roll  in  a  clean  cloth  in  layers  of  gown  and  layers  of 
cloth.  Grease  is  absorbed  and  the  soil  set  free.  Gaso- 
line, alcohol,  ether  and  chloroform  may  be  added  to 
the  list  for  ."spotting."  The  former  absorb  and  the 
latter  dissolve. 

To  remove  grease  spots  by  absorbents,  cover  spot 
on  both  sides  with  white  blotting  paper  or  soft  cloth, 
or  absorbing  powders;  press  with  a  warm  iron.  This 
iron  should  be  only  warm  enough  to  liquefy  the  grease 


Woolens.  97 

and  not  hot  enough  >to  darken  the  stain.     As  fast  as 
the  covering  material  soils,  change  to  a  new. 

Solvents,  such  as  alcohol,  gasoline,  ether  and  chloro- 
form, will  remove  the  grease  by  dissolving  it.  In  this 
method,  too,  the  pad  of  absorbing  material  should  be 
used.  This  pad  will  do  much  to  prevent  grease  rings. 
Rub  the  spot  to  hasten  the  dissolving  and  absorbing  of 
grease  and  to  prevent  the  grease  from  settling.  Do  not 
use  near  a  fire  or  flame.  Carbon  tetrachloride  may 
be  used  as  chloroform.  It  is  non-inflammable. 

Bleaching  of  woolens  must  be  done  with  great  care,  and 
with  the  home  facilities  results  are  more  or  less  uncer- 
tain. A  sulphur  candle,  clean  barrel  and  a  pan  of 
water,  will  make  a  bleaching  outfit  if  one  has  good  out- 
door facilities.  The  garment  should  be  clean,  and 
damp.  Stand  the  sulphur  candle  on  an  old  plate  in  a 
pan  of  water  in  a  barrel,  light  and  let  burn.  Spread  the 
garment  out  on  several  strands  of  heavy  white  twine 
and  suspend  hammock  fashion  a  few  inches  below  the 
top  of  the  barrel.  Tack  these  strands  securely  to  the 
barrel.  Cover  with  heavy,  clean  paper,  then  with  a 
heavy  covering  of  old  carpet  or  blanket.  The  fumes  of 
sulphur  will  pass  up  through  the  wet  wool.  At  the 
end  of  an  hour  note  change.  The  time  depends  on 
degree  of  discoloration  to  be  removed.  Working  in 
the  open,  one  need  not  inhale  any  sulphur  fumes.  See 
page  21. 

Soap  Solutions  for  Woolen  Cleaning: 

BLANKET  WASH. 

1  large  bar  Ivory  soap.          J  cup  wood  or  grain 
3  qts.  cold  water.  alcohol. 

2  tbs.  borax. 


98  Laundering. 

Shave  the  soap  into  the  cold  water  and  heat  at  low 
temperature  until  dissolved.  When  cold,  add  borax 
and  alcohol. 

DETERGENT. 

lj  oz.  white  castile  soap.        1  oz.  ether. 
1  oz.  grain  alcohol.  4  oz.  ammonia. 

Cut  soap  fine  and  heat  in  1  pint  of  soft  water  until 
dissolved.  Do  not  boil.  Then  add  three  quarts  of 
cold  water  and  the  other  ingredients.  Keep  tightly 
corked  in  bottles. 

SOAP  SOLUTION. 
1  cake  soap.  2  qts.  water. 

Shave  soap  and  dissolve  in  water. 

Borax  may  be  added  to  the  wash  water  or  to  the 
plain  soap  solution  if  woolens  are  very  soiled.  (See 
page  21.) 

To  Iron. — Ironing  of  woolens  is  more  like  pressing.  As 
the  fiber  scorches  so  easily  and  the  heavy  seams  glaze 
under  the  pressure  of  the  iron,  it  is  advisable  always 
to  use  cheese-cloth  between  the  cloth  and  the  iron. 
Pulling  the  cheese-cloth  off  makes  the  nap  fluffy.  A 
garment  half  dry  when  ironed  will  give  better  results. 
Otherwise,  cheese-cloth  should  be  dampened  each  time. 

Colored  Woolens. — Observe  all  points  stated  for  white 
woolens,  and  note  one  additional  problem — the  fading 
or  bleeding  of  colors.  This  may  be  overcome  by  set- 
ting the  colors  first  with  salt — one  to  two  cups  to 
amount  of  water  needed  to  cover — and  second  by  the 


Woolens.  99 

use  of  soap  bark  instead  of  soap.     Recipe  for  soap  bark 
(see  page  93) : 

SOAP  BARK. 
1  cup  soap  bark.  1  qt.  water. 

Cook  together  twenty  minutes.     Strain  and  use  in 
wash  water  like  a  soap  solution. 


CHAPTER  XI 
SILK 

Silk  again  represents  an  animal  fiber.  All  rules  for 
woolens  are  applicable  to  silks: 

I.  Heat  yellows  silk. 

II.  Strong  soaps  and  alkalis  destroy  gloss  and  turn 
silk  yellow. 

III.  Friction  breaks  fibers  and  so  weakens  the  fabric. 

IV.  Squeezing  should  take  the  place  of  rubbing  and 

wringing. 

V.  Too  hot  an  iron  yellows,  stiffens  and  cracks  silk. 
Cheese-cloth  should  be  used  for  pressing,  as  it 
is  the  safest  method. 

Dark  colored  silks  may  be  best  washed  with  soap  bark  in 
the  place  of  soap.  Recipe,  page  99. 

A  new  appearance,  and  still  not  stiffness,  may  be  given 
by  the  use  of  gum  arabic  in  the  last  water  before  pressing. 
This  often  prevents  a  thin  silk  from  looking  washed. 

GUM  ARABIC. 

2  tsp.  gum  arabic  (powdered). 
1  qt.  water  (warm). 

Mix  water  with  gum  arabic  as  with  flour.  Let  stand 
until  all  is  dissolved.  Stir  through  cheese-cloth  and  use  as 
starch  water  or  for  slight  stiffening  in  the  last  rinse  water. 

Ribbons. — Wet  ribbons  and  stretch  on  a  clean  table,  then 
scrub  with  a  small  soft  brush  and  neutral  soap  until 
(100) 


rjJJ  ,    ,Vj  101 

clean.  Rinse  in  clear  water,  keeping  ribbon  smooth 
and  straight.  Remove  some  of  the  water  by  running 
the  hand  down  the  ribbon  and  pressing  out  the  water. 
Stretch  on  the  table  again  and  allow  the  ribbon  to 
dry.  Ironing  will  not  be  needed  in  this  method  if  the 
ribbon  is  allowed  to  lie  flat  until  dry.  Wash  ribbons 
may  be  ironed  with  a  cool  iron  when  nearly  dry. 
Narrow  lingerie  ribbons  may  be  dried  by  winding  around 
a  bottle  after  washing. 

Chiffon,  Silk  Crepe,  Marquisette,  silk  and  cotton,  silk  and 
linen  should  be  treated  as  silk.  Silk-embroidered 
linen  should  be  washed  as  silk,  quickly  and  without 
rubbing,  dried  quickly,  and  when  half-dried  laid  on  a 
thick  pad  wrong  side  up  and  ironed  until  dry.  Pressing 
the  linen  on  the  right  side  will  give  a  gloss  to  the  linen. 
This  can  be  done  and  still  not  touch  the  right  side  of 
embroidery. 

Velvet  may  be  cleaned  by  sprinkling  thoroughly  with  mag- 
nesia or  cornmeal,  covering  and  letting  stand  twenty- 
four  hours.  Brush  off  with  a  soft  brush.  A  second 
application  will  produce  better  results.  All  velvets 
may  be  freshened  or  folds  taken  out  by  steaming. 

To  Steam  Velvets,  stand  a  hot  iron  on  end  and  cover  the 
bottom  of  it  with  a  wet  cloth.  Over  this  pass  the 
velvet,  holding  the  wrong  side  next  to  the  damp  cloth. 
The  steam  from  a  tea  kettle  may  be  used.  This  is 
especially  easy  with  a  spreading  device  put  into  the 
spout  of  the  kettle.  Have  little  water  in  the  kettle  so 
that  it  will  not  sputter  out  with  the  steam. 

Velveteen,  Corduroy  may  be  washed  by  plunging  up  and 
down  in  warm  soapy  water — rinsing  in  the  same  way  in 


102  Laundering. 

several  clear  waters  and  hanging  dripping  to  dry.  Do 
not  put  through  a  wringer  or  do  not  wring  with  the 
hands,  as  it  will  crease  it.  When  dry,  brush  with  a 
soft  brush  until  the  nap  is  all  raised  and  fluffy.  If 
well  rinsed  it  will  look  like  new.  To  prevent  seams 
from  puckering,  sew  such  goods  with  a  loose  stitch. 

Velvet  Collars. — Make  heavy  white  soap  lather.  To  a 
pint  of  such  suds  add  one-half  teaspoon  of  kerosene. 
Spread  thoroughly  and  evenly  over  the  soiled  velvet 
collar,  and  then  rub  lightly  with  a  soft  brush  or  cloth. 
Wipe  the  suds  off.  There  need  not  be  enough  moisture 
to  wet  the  collar.  After  wiping  with  several  freshly 
rinsed  cloths,  being  sure  all  soap  is  removed,  steam  on 
a  hot  iron.  See  Steaming  Velvets  above. 

Chamois,  Doeskin  and  Washable  Gloves  may  be  easily  done 
on  the  hands  by  brushing  in  lukewarm  suds  with  a 
soft  brush.  Putting  them  on  the  hands  makes  it  pos- 
sible to  see  all  streaks  and  to  give  special  attention  to 
the  ends  of  the  fingers.  Rinse  in  clear  water,  then  pull 
fingers  into  shape  and  blow  the  glove  up  to  prevent 
it  drying  too  small.  Do  not  dry  in  intense  heat.  Rub 
the  glove  when  half  dry  and  in  that  way  overcome  its 
stiffening.  Gloves  that  have  been  badly  washed  and 
grown  hard  and  stiff  and  perhaps  too  small  for  the 
hands,  should  be  wet,  put  on  the  hand  and  rinsed  in 
warm  water  to  which  half  a  teaspoon  of  olive  oil  has 
been  added.  This  oil  will  soften  the  kid.  Heavy 
colored  stitching  on  the  back  of  the  glove  had  better  be 
wiped  to  avoid  the  possibility  of  the  color  running. 


CHAPTER  XII 
LACES  AND   SPECIAL  CLEANSING 

Laces,  because  of  their  very  delicate  structure,  should  be 
washed  with  the  least  possible  rubbing  and  pulling. 
Those  that  are  especially  frail  may  be  basted  to  a  piece 
of  cheese-cloth.  Soaking,  squeezing  or  shaking  in  the 
water  are  the  safest  methods  to  use. 

Stains. — -Stains  on  laces  may  be  removed  as  from  any  other 
fabric.  Thought  must  be  given  as  to  whether  it  is  a 
silk  lace,  wool  lace  or  a  cotton  one.  To  remove  stains 
from  silk  and  wool  laces,  see  Chapters  III  and  X. 
To  remove  stains  from  cotton  and  linen  laces  will  be 
found  as  easy  as  to  remove  from  linen -and  cotton 
cloth.  See  chapter  on  Stains. 

Washing. — Dissolve  a  white  soap  in  water,  and  add  suffi- 
cient soap  solution  to  the  wash  water  to  make  good 
strong  suds.  Soaking  the  laces  in  this  water  may  clean 
them  without  any  handling.  For  very  delicate  laces 
a  second  soak  in  clean  soapy  water  may  clean  them. 
Rinse  thoroughly  in  several  waters.  White  laces 
(cotton  and  linen)  may  be  blued  in  very  pale  blue 
water.  If  cream  or  ecru,  and  they  need  retinting, 
a  clear  solution  of  tea  may  be  added  to  the  last  rinse 
water,  the  quantity  of  tea  used  depending  upon  the 
degree  of  yellow  or  ecru  desired.  The  tea  liquor  may 
be  prepared  by  boiling  one  tablespoon  of  black  tea  in 
one  quart  of  water,  and  using  the  required  amount 
of  the  clear  tea.  Lace  has  great  absorbing  power,  and 
care  should  be  used  not  to  make  the  tint  too  dark. 

(103) 


104  Laundering. 

Bleaching. — Discoloration  may  be  removed  from  lace  by: 
Sunlight. 

Rinsing  in  borax  and  water. 
Bleaching  with  Javelle  water. 
Using  potassium  permanganate  and  oxalic  acid. 
The  lace  should  be  washed  as  clean  as  possible  before 
bleaching. 

Sunlight. — Spread  the  lace  thoroughly  wet  on  a  cloth  or 
towel  in  the  sun.  Time  is  required  for  this  process,  and 
the  lace  should  be  kept  wet. 

Rinsing  in  Borax  and  Water  may  whiten  the  lace,  because 
borax  is  a  mild  bleach.  This  and  the  sunlight  method 
might  be  combined. 

Javelle  Water. — One-quarter  of  a  cup  of  Javelle  water  in  one 
quart  of  hot  water.  Drop  the  lace  into  this  Javelle, 
then  lift  instantly  from  the  bowl  and  rinse  in  a  second 
bowl  of  hot  water.  This  bleaching  and  rinsing  should 
be  done  as  fast  as  one  motion  can  follow  another.  Two 
or  three  such  applications  bring  good  results  without 
harm  to  cotton  and  linen  laces.  Then  wash  thoroughly 
in  soap  and  water.  It  should  not  be  used  for  wool  and 
silk  laces. 

Potassium  Permanganate. — Apply  the  permanganate  solu- 
tion (see  page  26)  to  the  discolored  lace,  rinse  with 
warm  water,  then  apply  dilute  oxalic  acid,  which  will 
take  away  all  the  brown  stain  which  the  permanganate 
has  produced.  Lace  which  has  been  bleached  by  this 
method  or  the  Javelle  should  be  washed  thoroughly  in 
soap  and  water,  so  as  to  be  sure  no  chemical  remains. 

To  Pin. — Lace  is  not  starched,  and  is  best  unironed.  It 
should  be  pulled  and  pinned  into  shape.  This  will  open 
the  mesh  of  the  lace,  and  the  drying  under  tension  will 
give  sufficient  stiffness.  If  this  stiffness  is  objection- 
able, the  lace  may  be  stroked  with  the  flat  side  of  the 
thumb  and  finger,  and  this  will  soften  it. 


Laces  and  Special  Cleansing. 


105 


The  First  Pinning  is  Very  Important. 


The  Second  Pinning  Should  Shape  the  Scallops  and  Points,  and  Sufficient  Pins  Should 
be  Used  to  Hold  Them  Well  in  Shape  and  to  Eliminate  All  Scalloping  or  Unevenness 
of  the  Plain  Edges 


The  Third  and  Finest  Pinning  for  Perfect  Results  Should  be  Done  by  Placing  a  Pin 
in  All  Small  Loops  or  Picots.  These  Pins  Should  Not  be  Removed  Until  the  Lace  is 
Dry.  Should  There  be  Any  Raised  Flowers  or  Leaves,  Like  the  Roses  in  Irish  Lace, 
the  Petals  Should  be  Lifted  With  a  Pin  Until  Each  One  is  Opened  and  Stands  Out. 

LACE  PINNING 


106  Laundering. 

Much  care  must  be  given  to  the  pinning.  The  first 
pins  should  be  put  in  with  the  idea  of  producing  the 
straight  lines  as  in  lace  by  the  yard,  or  the  curves, 
squares  or  circles  as  in  collars,  lace  scarfs,  centerpieces 
and  table-covers.  One  should  remember  that  the  pins 
are  put  in  to  resist  the  natural  shrinkage  which  takes 
place  in  drying.  These  pins  should  also  regulate  the 
width,  stretching  each  point  or  curve  to  the  width 
required  and  making  each  one  exactly  the  shape  of 
its  neighbor. 

Or,  if  the  worker  prefers,  the  lace  may  be  basted 
closely  on  shrunken  cheese-cloth,  giving  special  care  to 
the  shaping  of  points  and  scallops.  The  lace  is  then 
washed  on  the  cheese-cloth,  and  the  cheese-cloth  pulled 
and  pinned  'taut  for  the  drying. 

Lace  Yokes  and  Sleeves  may  be  cleaned  without  removing 
from  the  dress,  if  care  is  exercised  to  keep  the  water 
or  gasoline,  if  used,  from  running  down  into  the  mate- 
rial of  the  waist.  Powdered  magnesia,  chalk  or  fuller's 
earth  may  be  spread  on  the  yoke  with  less  chance  of 
harming  the  material.  If  it  is  to  be  cleaned  by  water 
or  gasoline,  cover  .the  waist  carefully  by  wrapping  in 
a  heavy  towel;  then  with  a  soft  brush,  brush  the  lace 
with  heavy  suds,  or  with  gasoline,  brushing  down 
from  the  waist,  as  this  will  prevent  the  moisture  from 
running  back  into  the  material.  It  may  be  found 
advisable  when  using  water  or  gasoline,  to  lay  the  lace 
on  a  heavily  folded  towel,  as  this  will  quickly  absorb 
the  moisture  and  prevent  spreading.  If  cleaned  with 
magnesia  or  any  of  the  powdered  cleansing  agents,  the 
lace  may  be  laid  on  a  towel  and  covered  with  the 
powder.  In  this  way  let.it  stand  for  twenty-four  hours. 


Laces  and  Special  Cleansing.  107 

At  the  end  of  this  time,  brush  off  the  powder,  and,  if 
not  too  soiled  before  cleansing,  the  lace  will  be  a  good 
color.  This  is,  in  fact,  a  good  way  to  put  away  lace 
yokes  between  times  of  wearing. 

Gold  and  Silver  Lace  may  be  cleansed  by  brushing  with 
alcohol  or  gasoline.  If  this  lace  is  in  the  dress,  carry 
out  the  same  precautions  as  given  above.  This  metal 
lace  may  also  be  cleaned  by  boiling  in  salt  and  water, 
using  two  tablespoons  of  salt  to  each  pint  of  water. 

Drawn  Work. — Care  must  be  used  in  doing  drawn  work, 
because,  while  it  seems  sturdier  than  lace,  the  threads 
of  the  fabric  which  compose  the  pattern  are  often  most 
delicate.  Wash  as  any  lace  without  much  rubbing, 
blue,  dry  and  sprinkle;  or  it  may  be  ironed  without 
previously  sprinkling,  as  is  suggested  for  napkins  and 
table  cloths.  Tastes  differ  as  to  whether  it  should  be 
starched.  To  iron,  if  possible  use  a  large  ironing  sur- 
face like  the  table,  and  iron  from  the  center  out  to  the 
edge  in  straight  lines  and  with  the  weave.  This  will 
prevent  the  usual  puckering  and  ruffling  of  the  hems. 
The  ironing  should  be  done  on  the  wrong  side  with  a 
dull-pointed  iron,  as'  a  sharp  point  is  often  responsible 
for  the  tearing.  A  cover  of  cheese-cloth  will  help  to 
keep  the  iron  from  catching  in  the  threads. 

Elastic  Goods. — Elastic  goods  should  be  washed  in  cool 
water,  as  intense  heat  causes  the  rubber  to  deteriorate. 
A  soft  brush  will  be  of  great  help,  as  it  will  sink  down 
into  the  fiber  of  the  goods,  thus  cleaning  more  rapidly. 
Rinse  thoroughly,  and  hang  to  dry,  as  would  be  done 
with  any  white  goods. 

Dress  Shields.— The  life  of  a  dress  shield  is  increased  by 
cleanliness.  They  may  be  easily  washed  with  cool  or 


108  Laundering. 

tepid  water,  a  white  soap,  and  if  much  discolored,  a 
soft  brush  may  help  to  clean  them.     Do  not  iron. 

Corsets. — A  corset  that  has  been  worn  too  long  is  hard 
to  whiten  and  clean.  Prepare  a  good,  strong  lather, 
add  a  little  ammonia  and  borax,  and  with  a  small 
scrubbing  brush  scrub  the  corset  thoroughly.  Rinse 
in  several  waters,  and  hang  in  the  sun  to  bleach.  The 
laces  of  the  corset  will  be  like  new  if  taken  out  of  the 
corset  to  be  washed.  The  corset  should  be  starched 
and  ironed;  either  iron  the  laces  or  wrap  ribbon  fashion 
round  a  bottle  to  dry. 

Feathers  from  Hats. — Feathers  are  often  washed  and  curled 
in  the  home.  If  so,  make  good  suds  of  white  soap 
and  water  and  draw  the  feather  through  the  hands 
in  this  water.  Let  the  stroke  be  regular  and  always 
by  pulling  the  feather  from  stem  to  tip.  Dry  the  feather 
by  shaking  frequently  and  then  it  is  ready  for  curling. 
Moisten  with  steam  before  curling — in  fact,  steaming 
a  feather  and  then  shaking  it  over  the  top  of  a  stove 
is  often  enough  to  give  curl  to  it.  For  a  tighter  curl 
draw  three  or  four  flumes  at  a  time  over  a  dull  knife, 
like  a  bone  paper  cutter,  after  first  steaming  the  feather. 
If  the  feather  is  too  dry  the  knife  will  break  it. 

Pillows. — Pillows  may  be  washed,  without  removing  from 
the  case,  in  a  tub  or  washing  machine.  Wash  by  sous- 
ing up  and  down  in  the  water,  and  then  after  rinsing, 
hang  to  dry  in  the  sun  and  wind.  Choose  a  windy  day 
for  this  work  if  possible,  as  it  dries  and  livens  the  feath- 
ers well.  It  will  be  easier  to  clean  the  tick  if  the  feathers 
are  removed,  as  the  tick  often  needs  rubbing  which  will 
break  the  feathers.  For  this  transfer  the  feathers  to 


Laces  and  Special  Cleansing.  109 

a  cheese-cloth  bag,  and  wash  feathers  in  the  bag  and 
the  ticking  separately.  The  feathers  can  be  easily 
returned  to  the  tick  after  drying  by  sewing  the  two 
openings  together  and  tossing 'the  feathers  from  one 
bag  to  the  other 

Down  Quilts. — Prepare  a  suds  of  warm  water  and  white 
soap.  Souse  or  knead  the  quilt  in  the  suds.  Use  a 
second  suds,  two  rinses,  and  then  hang  to  dry  by 
spreading  out  between  two  lines,  and  as  often  as  pos- 
sible while  drying  shake  from  all  four  sides  to  liven 
the  down  and  to  help  to  respread  it.  Wringing  must  be 
done  by  squeezing,  and  the  pressing  of  the  silk  or 
sateen  cover  may  be  done  with  a  warm  iron.  A  little 
time  after  the  down  is  dry  will  be  required  to  spread 
it  about  with  the  fingers.  The  quilts  may  be  most 
satisfactorily  cleaned  and  will  only  lack  a  little  of  the 
puffiness  which  has  come  from  the  down  being  blown 
into  the  various  sections  of  the  pattern  as  the  quilt  was 
being  made. 

Rain  coats  may  be  cleaned  with  a  brush  and  suds  of  white 
soap  and  warm  water.  Brush  the  whole  coat  evenly 
and  thoroughly.  Hang  on  a  hanger  and  rinse  by  pour- 
ing water  on  the  coat,  and  let  hang  to  dry.  Let  drip 
dry. 

Veils  may  be  washed  in  warm  water  and  soap,  and  if  black 
should  be  rinsed  finally  in  a  strong  solution  of  black 
tea  to  which  gum  arabic  has  been  added.  Use  about 
two  teaspoons  of  powdered  gum  arabic  to  one  pint  of 
water;  while  still  wet,  spread  the  veil  in  shape  to  dry, 
being  careful  to  have  the  edges  straight.  White  woolen 
or  silk  veils  need  no  gum  arabic.  Chiffon  veils  may 


1 10  Laundenng. 

be  washed  in  soap  and  water  and  pressed  while  half 
dry.  Strong  tea  water  should  be  used  for  rinsing 
mourning  crepe. 

Voile. — Colored  voiles  may  need  to  have  the  colors  set  like 
any  colored  goods,  and  fortunately  the  salt  and  water 
used  for  the  setting  is  harmless  to  the  wool,  silk  and 
even  cotton  voile.  Wash  the  voiles  in  lukewarm  soap- 
suds, which  has  been  made  of  a  white  soap.  There 
should  be  several  rinse  waters  of  the  same  temperature 
as  the  wash  water.  The  last  rinse  water  for  blacks  and 
.browns  can  be  strongly  colored  with  a  solution  made 
from  black  tea.  Blue  voiles  may  be  rinsed  in  a  strong 
blue  water,  and  pure  white  voiles  may  have  a  very 
light  blue  rinse  with  just  enough  blue  to  whiten  and  in 
no  way  tint  the  cloth.  If  the  garment  has  been  ripped 
up  to  be  washed,  then  care  should  be  used  to  hang  the 
various  lengths  perfectly  straight,  and  if  hung  without 
wringing,  there  will  be  little  need  of  pressing,  although 
pressing  with  a  warm  iron  will  do  no  harm.  Press  on 
the  side  that  is  to  be  the  wrong  side  with  a  cloth  between 
the  voile  and  the  iron.  A  voile  skirt,  if  washed  without 
ripping,  should  be  hung  by  the  band,  pinning  the  band 
several  places  on  the  line,  so  as  to  leave  no  chance  for 
sagging. 

Chiffon  and  Chiffon  Cloth  should  be  washed  in  lukewarm 
water  with  a  light  suds.  Wash  as  any  silk,  rinse,  blue 
slightly  if  it  is  to  be  a  pure  white.  If  colored  chiffon 
or  chiffon  cloth,  consider  them  as  colored  silks.  (See 
chapter  on  Colored  Clothes.)  With  either  material 
iron  with  a  warm  iron  on  the  wrong  side  and  when 
the  fabric  is  nearly  dry. 

Neckties. — Before  wetting  the  necktie,  loosen  the  inner 
lining.  Lay  the  tie  flat  and  treat  as  for  ribbon.  Press 


Laces  and  Special  Cleansing.  Ill 

when  almost  dry.  If  too  damp  when  pressed,  it  will 
make  the  tie  stiff  and  shiny.  Keep  the  tie  perfectly 
flat  during  the  cleansing,  and  there  will  be  little  need 
for  any  ironing.  Wash  as  for  ribbons. 

To  Remove  Rain  Spots. — Steam  the  garment  by  holding 
over  the  spout  of  the  tea  kettle.  Shake  the  garment 
in  the  steam  until  evenly  moist  and  continue  shaking 
until  dry.  Fine  silks  and  even  delicate  colors  respond 
well  to  this  method. 

Gloss  Removed  from  Clothing. — Serges  and  broadcloths  are 
likely  to  wear  shiny.  This  gloss  may  be  removed  tem- 
porarily, the  length  of  time  it  stays  away  depending 
in  a  great  degree  upon  the  amount  of  wear  given  the 
fabric.  To  remove,  dampen  a  cheese-cloth  in  water  to 
which  a  few  drops  of  ammonia  have  been  added  (about 
one-half  teaspoon  of  ammonia  to  a  quart  of  water),, 
and  with  this  cloth  sponge  the  garment  by  rubbing 
in  even,  straight  lines,  being  careful  that  every  part 
is  sponged.  Then  with  a  dampened  cloth  spread  over 
the  fabric,  press  until  dry.  Use  the  same  precaution 
in  the  pressing  of  these  woolens  as  with  any  other 
wool;  that  is,  do  not  have  the  iron  too  hot,  and  do  not 
iron  without  a  cloth. 

Overalls. — Overalls  usually  present  a  grease  problem.  It 
is  advisable,  therefore,  to  apply  to  the  grease  spots 
clean  kitchen  grease,  kerosene  or  some  soft,  clean  fat. 
Then  with  warm,  soapy  water  and  a  good  scrubbing 
brush,  it  is  possible  to  get  them  quite  clean.  It  would 
be  wise  to  add  some  grease-cutting  agent  to  the  soap 
solution,  such  as  borax,  ammonia  or  dissolved  washing 
soda.  If  after  the  overalls  are  washed  and  rinsed, 
they  are  hung  quite  wet  on  the  line,  they  will  be  found 
to  dry  so  smooth  that  ironing  is  unnecessary. 


CHAPTER  XIII 
FUMIGATION   AND    DISINFECTION   OF    CLOTHING 

Clothes  which  are  thoroughly  washed  and  boiled,  as  is  the 
usual  method  in  all  laundries,  are  sterile  to  the  point  of  safety. 
Clothing  that  cannot  be  washed  and  must  be  sterilized  may  be 
fumigated  or  disinfected.  In  the  home,  simple  methods  must 
be  resorted  to.  Fortunately  the  clothing  used  in  the  sick 
room  is  usually  white  and  of  a  material  that  is  washable. 

All  articles,  whether  bed  or  body  clothing,  that  come  in 
contact  with  the  person  suffering  from  contagious  diseases, 
need  special  care.  Most  contagious  diseases  have  no  spores, 
so  the  extreme  treatment  required  to  kill  spores  is  not  needed. 
A  simple  way  of  caring  for  soiled  linen  from  the  sick  room  is  to 
put  the  clothes  immediately  into  a  boiler  which  is  half  full 
of  cold  water,  add  soap,  heat,  and  boil  thirty  minutes  after 
the  boiling  point  has  been  reached.  This  treatment  will  kill 
disease  carriers  with  the  exception  of  their  spores  (spores  are 
like  seeds  or  eggs  which  are  not  destroyed  until  they  have 
matured).  After  boiling  the  clothes,  they  should  hang 
to  dry  in  the  open,  as  sunshine  and  air  are  both  good 
disinfectants. 

Various  methods  are  given,  that  one  may  choose  what 
seems  easier  to  them.  In  fumigating,  a  room  or  closet 
should  be  sealed,  so  that  the  fumes  may  be  more  concentrated 
and  hence  produce  greater  results.  Keep  a  room  sealed  for 
at  least  eight  hours  after  fumigation. 

Formalin  Candles  may  be  burned,  care  being  taken  to  avoid 
any  danger  from  fire. 

(112) 


Fumigation  and  Disinfection  of  Clothing.  1 13 

The  Spraying  Method  may  be  used.  A  sheet,  two  by  two 
and  a  half  yards,  sprinkled  with  eight  ounces  of  formalin, 
is  hung  on  a  line  in  the  center  of  the  room.  In  drying, 
the  formaldehyde  gas  which  is  given  off  does  the  work 
of  disinfecting.  One  sheet  of  this  size  is  used  for  every 
thousand  cubic  feet.  The  room  should  be  kept  sealed 
for  at  least  eight  hours. 

A  third  method  is  the  so-called  permanganate-formalin 
method.  For  each  thousand  cubic  feet  of  air  space,  use 
nine  ounces  of  potassium  permanganate  and  one  pint 
of  formalin. 

The  permanganate  is  placed  in  a  receptacle  and  the 
formalin  is  quietly  poured  on  it.  As  considerable  action 
takes  place  when  the  two  substances  come  in  contact, 
the  vessel  in  which  they  are  put  should  be  deep  and  a 
protector  should  be  put  under  it  in  order  to  prevent 
carrying  off  the  heat  generated. 

The  gas  given  off  when  formalin  breaks  up — formalde- 
hyde— is  more  effective  in  the  presence  of  moisture. 
Into  the  air-tight  box,  closet  or  room  which  is  being 
disinfected,  moisture  may  be  introduced  by  hanging  up 
a  wet  towel  or  sheet,  depending  upon  the  size  of  the 
space  treated.  If  steam  can  be  introduced  into  the 
space  it  will  be  the  best  form  in  which  to  bring  in 
moisture.  This  may  be  done  by  setting  pails  or  a  tub 
of  boiling  water  in  the  room. 

Disinfection  is  usually  brought  about  by  immersing  the  gar- 
ment in  a  liquid.  This  is  especially  suitable  for  those 
garments  that  can  not  be  washed  and  boiled.  Carbolic 
acid,  formalin,  lysol,  creolin  and  bichloride  of  mercury 
are  the  usual  disinfectants.  They  must  all  be  used  with 
great  care,  the  first  two  being  especially  hard  on  the 


114  Laundering. 

hands,  if  used  much,  and  the  last  one  producing  dis- 
coloration in  the  clothes. 

Clothes  may  be  disinfected  by  putting  into  a  carbolic 
acid  solution  and  leaving  them  from  twenty  minutes  to 
one  hour.  The  right  strength  of  solution  is  about  five 
per  cent.  This  can  be  made  up  by  using 

1  part  carbolic  acid  to 
19  parts  boiling  water. 

One  drawback  in  using  this  solution  is  that  it  is  very 
hard  on  the  hands;  therefore,  before  removing  the 
clothes,  add  a  large  quantity  of  water  in  order  that  the 
solution  may  be  made  very  dilute. 

Lysol  and  Creolin  are  manufactured  coal  tar  products  that 
may  be  used  in  place  of  carbolic  acid.  They  are  used  in 
one  per  cent  and  two  per  cent-  solutions ;  being  dissolved 
in  tepid  water,  they  will  do  equally  good  work.  Solu- 
tions made  from  either  will  not  harm  the  skin.  These 
products  are  more  expensive  than  carbolic  acid. 

Formalin  is  a  very  valuable  disinfectant.  It  is  claimed  that 
this  disinfectant  will  destroy  spores.  Clothes  should  be 
.  immersed  in  a  four  or  five  per  cent  solution  and  allowed 
to  stay  thirty  minutes  at  least.  (For  spore  destroying 
it  is  claimed  that  twenty-four  hours  are  necessary.) 
It  is  also  a  deodorizer.  Formalin  is  somewhat  cheaper 
than  carbolic  acid.  It  is  like  carbolic  in  being  irritating 
to  the  skin;  therefore,  care  should  be  taken  to  dilute  the 
solution  very  much  before  removing  the  clothes. 

A  solution  of  Bichloride  of  Mercury,  1  in  500,  is  some- 
times recommended,  but  it  gives  no  better  results  than 
those  noted,  and  will  discolor  the  clothes. 


Fumigation  and  Disinfection  of  Clothing.  115 

Spores. — The  one  sure  way  of  destroying  spores  is  to  keep 
the  garments  that  need  sterilizing  confined  in  super- 
heated steam  for  one-half  hour. 

For  any  mattress  or  heavy  article  that  cannot  be 
thoroughly  fumigated  or  disinfected,  there  seems  to  be 
little  left  to  do  but  burn.  The  fumigation  largely 
eliminates  the  loss  by  burning,  because  in  the  eight 
hours  used  for  fumigation  there  is  ample  time  for  the 
fumes  to  thoroughly  penetrate  a  thin  fiber. 


CHAPTER  XIV 
DRY  CLEANING 

Dry  cleaning  is  so  called  because  water  is  not  used  as  a 
cleaning  agent.  It  is  really,  therefore,  a  chemical  process. 
The  principle  involved  is  to  use  some  material  which  is 
a  perfect  solvent  for  grease,  and  as  the  grease  is  dissolved  the 
dirt  is  naturally  set  free.  Benzine,  benzol,  ether,  chloroform, 
acetic  ether,  carbon  tetrachloride,  and  alcohol  are  all  grease 
solvents,  and  to  a  certain  extent  may  be  used  for  dry  cleaning. 
The  benzine  and  the  carbon  tetrachloride  are  the  most  used 
because  of  their  extreme  solvent  power  and  because  of  their 
volatility. 

Two  points  are  absolutely  essential  in  good  dry  cleaning. 
There  should  be  total  immersion,  and  the  liquid  used 
must  be  purely  solvent  and  quickly  volatile.  To  test  a 
liquid  as  to  its  volatility,  pour  a  little  benzine  in  an  open 
dish  and  after  evaporation  there  should  be  no  sediment. 
Benzine  may  be  filtered  through  flannel  or  chamois 
to  extract  all  moisture,  as  clothes  that  are  moist,  or 
benzine  with  water  in  it,  produce  poor  results. 

The  object  of  dry  cleaning  is  that  we  have  a  rapid  cleaning 
which  produces  no  shrinkage,  no  change  of  color,  no 
wrinkling  or  disarrangements  of  parts;  and  again,  the 
dry  cleaning  process  is  a  process  of  disinfection. 

Great  danger  is  involved  in  the  dry  cleaning  process.  For 
this  reason  the  utmost  care  must  be  exercised.  It  is 
essential  that  there  be  no  heat,  either  of  a  heated  room, 
or  that  there  be  no  flame,  as  benzine  and  benzol  are 
highly  inflammable  in  a  liquid  state,  and  they  have  such 
a  low  boiling  point  that  they  give  off  large  fumes  of  vapor 
(116) 


Dry  Cleaning.  117 

at  ordinary  temperatures.  This  vapor  mixes  with  the 
air,  and  forms  a  dangerous  and  powerful  explosive. 
Two  conditions  must  exist  before  combustion  or  explo- 
sion can  take  place.  One  is  that  the  liquid  or  vapor 
come  in  contact  with  oxygen,  and  the  other  is  that  there 
must  be  sufficiently  high  temperature.  If  neither  of  these 
conditions  is  present  there  is  no  possibility  of  the  gaso- 
line burning  or  exploding.  For  the  housewife  to  use 
gasoline  it  should  be  done  out  of  doors,  in  the  shade,  and 
for  safety's  sake,  a  cool  day  should  be  chosen.  Benzine 
or  gasoline  is  used  with  great  risk  in  one's  bedroom, 
bathroom,  or  kitchen,  and  only  by  the  person  ignorant 
of  the  danger.  Carbon  tetrachloride  may  be  used  with 
greater  safety,  because  its  burning  point  is  higher,  hence 
it  is  not  inflammable.  To  remove  spots  by  benzine  they 
should  be  done  according  to  the  stain  chapter,  first 
removing  the  spot,  and  then  it  will  be  found  better  to 
immerse  the  whole  garment.  This  will  avoid  the  rings 
which  often  result  from  dry  cleaning  of  spots.  Pearl  but- 
tons should  be  taken  off,  as  benzine  destroys  the  finish 
of  the  pearl.  Rubbing  with  oil  may  return  the  polish. 

The  main  thought  in  cleansing  with  benzine  is  to  use 
it  like  water  in  quantity  and  to  rinse  the  garment  in 
benzine  as  is  done  in  water.  A  soft  brush  may  be  used 
on  very  badly  soiled  parts  of  the  garment.  Always  do 
the  lightest  goods  first  and  the  rinse  benzine  may  be 
used  as  wash  liquid  for  the  next  lot. 

Do  not  store  quantities  of  gasoline  in  the  house,  and 
when  the  cleaning  work  is  finished,  hang  garment  in  air; 
pour  left-over  benzine,  if  dirty,  on  some  absorbing  soil 
or  gravel,  or,  if  clean,  bottle  it.  Every  time  gasoline 
is  used  and  bottled  it  loses  its  good  volatile  quality. 
Do  not  pour  these  volatile  liquids  in  the  drain  pipes  to 
run  to  the  sewer. 


PART  H 


CHAPTER  XV 


EQUIPMENT 


EQUIPMENT  FOR  HOME  LAUNDRY. 


Agate    pan    or    basin,    for 

starching. 
Asbestos  mats. 
Boiler,    copper    bottom,    10 

gallons. 
Bosom  board. 
Bottles,  J  doz.,  2  ounces. 
Bowls,  enamel,  2-6  quarts. 
Case  knife. 
Cheese-cloth,  2  yards. 
Cloth  for  tubs  and  boiler. 
Clothes  basket. 
Clothes  hamper. 
Clothes  horse. 
Clothes  line,  50  yards. 
Clothes  pins,  200. 
Clothes  pin  bag. 
Clothes  props. 
Clothes  stick. 
Curtain  stretcher. 
Dipper,     block     tin,     short 

handle. 
Droppers. 
Duster  for  line. 
Enamel  cloth  for  table. 
Felt  or  silence  cloth. 


Flannel. 
Floor  mop. 
Fringe  brush. 
Funnel,  enamel. 

glass. 

Iron  holders. 
Ironing  table. 
Ironing  board. 
Iron  rests. 

Irons,  electric  or  gas. 
fluting, 
heavy, 
polishing, 
sad. 

Labels,  1  box. 
Mason  jars,  1  doz.,  1-  and  2- 

quart. 

Measures,  graduate, 
cup. 
quart, 
tablespoon, 
teaspoon. 
Pail,    galvanized    iron,    10- 

quart. 
Paper. 
Pins,  \  pound. 


(121) 


122  Laundering. 

Saucepan,  enamel,  for  starch.     Tea  kettle. 

Scales.  Wash  board,  glass  or  zinc. 

Scrubbing  brush.  Washing  devices  for  tub  and 

Sleeve  board.  boiler. 

Soap  dish.  Whisk  broom. 

Sprinkler,  tin.  Wooden  spoon. 

Strainer,  tin.  Wringer. 

Tape,  1  roll  (}-in.).  Yard  stick. 

Tape  measure. 

SUPPLIES  FOR  HOME  LAUNDRY. 

Alcohol.  Linseed  oil 

Alum.  Paraffin. 

Ammonia.  Potassium  permanganate. 

Beeswax.  Oxalic  acid. 

Blue.  Sal  soda. 

Borax.  Salt. 

Chloride  of  lime.  Soap. 

Hydrochloric  acid.  Starch. 

Lime  water.  Tea. 

Chloroform,  ether  and  all  other  chemicals  purchased  as 
needed  for  special  recipes. 

The  equipment  of  the  laundry  should  be  most  carefully 
considered,  for  no  work  of  the  housewife  is  more  dependent 
upon  the  workshop  and  good  tools.  The  ideal  situation  of 
the  laundry  is  one  where  plenty  of  light  and  air  is  possible, 
and  if  one  can  foresee  that  the  laundress  is  to  come  in  by  the 
hour  or  day  or  is  employed  by  the  week  as  a  household 
servant,  where  it  is  away  by  itself,  either  in  the  basement, 
near  the  drying  yard  or  in  the  rear  of  the  house.  The  last 
place  it  should  be  is  in  the  kitchen.  This  is  often  done  to 
economize,  but  a  little  planning  will  overcome  this.  Have 
the  kitchen  smaller,  put  the  laundry  adjoining  so  that  the 


Equipment.  .  123 

kitchen  chimney  may  take  the  laundry  stove  on  the  other 
side,  and  the  kitchen  plumbing  may  be  backed  up  with  the 
laundry  plumbing — sink  on  one  side  of  the  wall,  wash  tubs 
on  the  other  side  of  the  wall.  The  kitchen  stove  can  supply 
the  hot  water  and  if  planned  properly  one  set  of  plumbing 
will  reduce  the  cost. 

If  one  maid,  or  even  the  housekeeper  herself,  is  to  do  the 
laundry  work,  the  laundry  and  kitchen  adjoining  is  a  better 
plan  than  to  bring  two  departments  of  housework  into  one 
room.  Confusion  and  hindrance,  to  say  nothing  of  mixing 
foods  and  their  odors  with  clothing  and  its  odors,  and  the 
bad  interchange  of  equipment  are  the  results. 

The  walls  and  ceiling  should  be  of  any  finish  that  does  not 
absorb  moisture,  and  that  can  be  easily  cleaned.  The 
most  ideal  finish  is  a  glazed  white  brick  which  may  be  of 
the  form  of  bricks  or  of  tiles.  This  being  too  expensive,  a 
hard  plaster  for  wall  and  ceiling  with  white  enamel  paint 
will  be  economical  and,  from  the  sanitation  standpoint, 
especially  good.  With  this  kind  of  a  wall  and  ceiling,  a 
five-foot  tile  or  glazed  brick  wainscoting  will  preserve  the 
plaster  and  hence  give  a  substantial  finish. 

For  the  floor,  we  could  consider  several  materials:  small 
white  tile  (small  because  it  wears  better);  cement;  inter- 
locking rubber;  or  a  heavy  grade  of  linoleum.  The  last  two 
will  be  found  much  easier  for  the  feet,  and  for  that  reason 
are  favored  by  many.  If  there  is  no  heavy  rolling  over  these 
floors,  they  will  be  found  to  give  gx>d  service.  As  far  as 
cleanliness  and  dryness  is  concerned,  they  meet  all  require- 
ments. 

The  windows  in  the  laundry  should  be  large,  and  for 
extra  ventilation  a  transom  over  each.  This  transom  allows 
fresh  air  to  enter  the  laundry  without  the  hindrance  of  this 
air  blowing  directly  on  the  work,  which  not  only  dries  the 


124 


Laundering. 


garment  about  to  be  ironed,  but  cools  the  iron.  The  first 
objection  that  may  be  raised  to  tnis  idea  may  be  that  the 
transoms  dojiot  harmonize  with  the  rest  of  the  building  or 
are  too  expensive.  As  an  alternative,  one  may  put  ventila- 
tors in  the  windows  at  the  bottom,  or  a  ventilator  such  as 
is  over  the  kitchen  range  may  be  placed  over  the  wash 


Courtesy  of  "Good  Housekeeping." 

SUGGESTIVE  PLAN  SHOWING  ARRANGEMENT. 

tubs  and  over  the  stove.  These  will  not  only  carry  out 
heat,  but  will  also  carry  off  any  steam  that  may  come  from 
boiling  clothes  and  from  drying  indoors  on  wet  days.  For 
the  summer  time,  the  windows  and  doors  should  be  well 
screened,  as  flies  seem  to  delight  in  resting  upon  clean 
clothing. 


Equipment.  125 

With  the  room  finished,  the  type,  cost  and  arrangement 
of  equipment  will  require  considerable  thought  if  it  is  to  be 
economical  and  at  the  same  time  efficient.  In  this  planning, 
either  for  buying  or  arrangement,  keep  in  mind  the  work 
that  is  to  be  done,  and  at  all  times  group  and  arrange  the 
equipment  or  utensils  with  the  thought  of  the  process  to  be 
carried  out.  It  may  seem  advisable  to  put  the  tubs  in  one 
special  part  of  the  room,  because  it  is  the  most  economical 
for  plumbing.  Tnis  being  the  case,  a  center  for  the  wash- 
ing process  is  at  once  established.  If  a  washing  machine 
is  to  be  used  in  conjunction  with  the  tubs,  naturally  it  is 
to  be  placed  near  them.  It  should  be  so  near  that  the  clothes 
may  pass  from  tub  to  machine,  or  from  machine  to  tub, 
without  any  carrying.  Most  machines  are  built  with  chutes 
so  that  this  economy  of  labor  is  entirely  possible.  A  side 
light  is  better  than  a  direct  front  light  upon  the  tub,  as  the 
latter  is  a  continual  strain  on  the  eyes  of  the  worker.  Again, 
for  general  cleanliness  and  for  convenience,  the  tub  will  be 
better  set  away  from  the  wall,  so  that  it  may  be  approached 
from  all  sides.  One  tub  will  be  found  sufficient,  if  a  washing 
machine  is  used;  if  not,  the  time  and  effort  saved  will  soon, 
in  the  worker's  mind,  balance  the  cost  of  three  wash  tubs, 
as  it  means  opportunity  for  good  rinsing,  even  in  two  waters, 
without  the  handicap  of  constantly  shifting  water. 

The  stove  ought  to  be  comfortably  near  to  establish  a 
close  relationship  to  the  tubs  and  especially  is  this  so  if  one 
always  boils  the  clothes.  At  the  present  time  indoor  driers 
may  be  bought  that  have  their  own  gas  or  coal  stove.  Such 
a  stove  heats  water,  irons,  and  by  the  arrangement  of  hot- 
air  flues  as  in  an  oven,  the  hot  air  circulates  around  the  clothes 
hung  in  a  drying  cabinet  attached.  A  corner  of  the  laundry 
is  the  best  place  for  the  drier  as  two  walls  are  already  estab- 
lished. No  especial  light  is  required  but  flue  connections 
allow  used  heat  and  excess  moisture  to  pass  up  and  off. 


126 


Laundering. 


Sprinkling  requires  either  a  table  or  drop  shelf,  which,  if 
covered  with  zinc  or  oil  cloth,  can  be  easily  kept  clean  and 
dry. 

The  ironing  section  of  the  room  should  have  good  light, 
because  of  the  uncertainty  of  scorching  clothes,  as  well 
as  being  able  to  see  when  the  wrinkles  are  ironed  out. 
Whether  an  ironing  table,  skirt  board  or  ironer,  place  near 


HOME  LAUNDRY  EQUIPMENT. 

the  windows,  and,  if  possible,  so  the  light  will  come  from  the 
side  of  the  worker.  An  arrangement  which  adds  to  efficiency 
is  one  where  the  tools  of  each  process  are  so  placed  that  the 
worker  walks  directly  from  one  set  of  working  equipment 
to  the  next. 

An  efficient  laundry  need  not  be  an  expensive,  luxurious 
one;  it  is  only  expensive  and  luxurious  to  the  point  that  the 


Equipment.  127 

worker  has  a  proper  tool  for  the  task  she  is  about  to  per- 
form. The  choice  comes  after  some  study  and  investigation, 
perhaps  some  experiment,  to  get  the  best  for  the  money  it 
is  possible  to  spend.  For  example,  a  ten-cent  sprayer 
attached  to  a  cork  which  will  fit  any  four-  or  six-ounce  bottle, 
will  sprinkle  the  clothes  as  quickly  and  as  well  as  a  so-called 
clothes  sprinkler  which  costs  forty  to  fifty  cents. 

The  small  equipment — devices  or  tools — may  be  grouped 
near  the  working  field  in  shelves,  or,  better  still,  in  two  small 
closets.  Two  closets,  one  for  ironing  equipment  and  one 
for  washing,  may  be  most  convenient.  Let  the  one  or  two 
closets  be  built  with  shelves  sufficiently  far  apart  to  hold  the 
various  equipment  and  supplies.  If  there  is  one  closet,  have 
one-half  for  equipment  and  one-half  for  supplies.  Narrow 
shelves  for  bottles  and  jars,  so  narrow  that  there  can  be  but 
one  row  of  bottles,  make  it  easy  to  see  quickly  the  various 
things  needed.  Spaces  may  be  planned  in  this  closet 
sufficiently  large  for  the  clothes  boiler,  and  the  wringer  when 
it  is  not  one  permanently  attached  to  the  washing  machine. 
A  rather  high,  narrow  compartment  will  take  the  skirt 
board  and  the  bosom  board ;  even  the  curtain  stretcners  could 
stand  in  the  back  of  this  space.  A  hook  conveniently 
placed  for  the  bag  .containing  the  clothes  pins  and  the 
clothes-line,  and  good,  substantial  shelves  for  irons,  sauce- 
pans, starch  and  bluing,  and  a  goodly  quantity  of  soap. 
With  the  room  well  lighted  and  well  aired,  equipment  and 
supplies  well  bought,  and  a  little  study  as  to  the  best 
methods,  one  will  find  that  the  drudgery  of  laundry  work 
is  largely  eliminated. 

PIECES  OF  EQUIPMENT. 

Machines  and  devices  were  never  so  helpful  or  at  so  varied 
prices.     It  behooves  the  housewife  to  consider  the  various 


128 


Laundering. 


principles  of  machines  and  devices;  to  consider  the  greater 
economy,  to  spend  time  and  energy  doing  the  work  herself 
which  leaves  little  for  the  better,  broader  things  of  family 
life,  or  to  purchase  a  machine,  the  first  cost  of  which  is  large 
but  which  does  all  the  heavy  work  for  her. 

Cost,  then,  is  the  first  thought,  and  all  electrically  driven 
machines  are,  in  dollars  and  cents,  the  most  expensive. 
The  more  powerful  and  lasting  the  motor,  the  greater  the 


DOLLY  WASHER. 

cost.  Electricity  not  being  possible,  gasoline,  acetylene  or 
water  may  furnish  the  power.  Water  motors  are  efficient 
if  there  is  a  sufficient  flow  of  water,  but  are  not  to  be  con- 
sidered if  one  must  pump  water  to  store  it  for  power  or  if 
the  water  tax  is  very  high.  Most  water  motors  require 
about  forty  pounds  pressure  per  square  inch.  This  can  be 
tested  at  the  faucet. 


Equipment.  129 

One  must  not  feel  that  hand-driven  machines  are  not 
labor  savers,  as  they  can  do  many  more  pieces  in  a  given 
time  and  with  less  effort.  No  matter  what  the  power,  a 
washing  machine  is  constructed  on  one  of  several  principles, 
all  cleaning  the  clothes  by  friction,  pressure  and  suction,  or 
agitation,  and  each  displacing  dirt  by  forcing  soap  and  water 
through  the  fabric. 

There  are  five  types  of  washing  machines.  One  is  called 
the  "Dolly"  type;  in  this,  the  "Dolly,"  which  is  like  a 
revolving  milk  stool,  revolves  in  the  center  of  an  outer  tub 
which  contains  soap  and  water  through  which  the  clothes 
are  drawn.  Care  should  be  used  in  this  machine  that  it 


CORRUGATED  DISK  TYPE. 

is  not  over-packed,  because  of  the  danger  of  tearing.  The 
principle  of  this  "Dolly"  machine  is  agitation  and  friction. 

Another  group  of  machines  cleans  the  clothes  by  friction. 
This  friction  is  brought  about  by  corrugated  disks  or  semi- 
circular boards  which  revolve  or  rock  with  the  clothes  in 
between. 

With  either  machine  the  clothes  are  rubbed  between  these 
two  grooved  pieces  of  wood.  It  is  really  a  double  wash- 
board device. 


130 


Laundering. 


A  third  group  revolves  the  clothes  and  hence  agitates 
them  in  a  cylinder-shaped  cage.  These  machines  are 
constructed  with  two  cylinders;  the  inner  cylinder,  made 


Reproduced  from  Boss'  Circular. 

CORRUGATED  SEMI-CIRCULAR  TYPE. 

either  of  wood  or  metal,  is  like  a  cage  which  holds  the  clothes, 
and  revolves  in  the  outer  cylinder  which  contains  soap  and 
water.  It  is  this  type  machine  that  is  used  in  all  com- 
mercial and  institutional  laundries,  and  may  be  built  with 


Equipment. 


131 


Courtesy  of  Hurley  Machine  Co. 


Courtesy  jof  Hurley  MachinejCo. 

ROTARY  TYPE. 


132 


Laundering. 


one  or  as  many  as  eight  inner  compartments.  The  com- 
partment machine  is  used  in  the  many  wet-wash  laundries. 
The  cheaper  of  these  machines,  if  power-driven,  rotate  only 
in  one  direction,  whereas  the  better  ones  reverse  their  action. 


Courtesy  of  Dodge  &  Zuill. 

PRESSURE  AND  SUCTION  TYPE. 


Hand-driven  rotary  washers  may  be  turned  or  reversed  at 
will  according  to  the  desire  of  the  worker.  It  is  the  revers- 
ing of  the  action  which  increases  the  efficiency  of  the  machine. 
This  machine,  like  any  other,  should  not  be  overcrowded, 


Equipment.  133 

so  there  will  be  sufficient  room  for  the  clothes  to  drop  from 
the  top  of  the  cylinder  to  the  side  as  the  inner  cage  revolves. 
Some  of  this  type  revolve  by  means  of  the  action  of  a  paddle 
wheel  agitating  the  water  so  forcefully  as  to  cause  the  cage 
to  revolve  in  the  water.  This  method  is  agitation  and 
rotation. 

A  fourth  type  of  machine,  the  pressure  and  suction  prin- 
ciple, are  spoken  of  as  suction  washers.     Metal  cones  are 


Courtesy  of  Judd  Laundry  Machine .  Co. 

OSCILLATING  TYPE. 

attached  to  a  lever  which  pushes  the  cones  down  against 
the  clothes,  then  suddenly  lifts  them  away.  A  suction  is 
caused  which  draws  out  the  dirt  previously  loosened  by  the 
pressure. 

Another  type  of  machine  oscillates  or  rocks  the  clothes 
in  soapy  water  without  friction.     The  clothes  compartment 


134  Laundering. 

rocks  cradle  fashion  and  cleans  the  clothes  by  throwing 
them  rapidly  from  one  side  to  the  other.  This  rapid 
throwing  creates  a  forceful  displacement,  hence  the  cleaning 
is  rapid. 

Any  of  these  machines  will  do  good  work,  if  not  over- 
loaded, if  given  sufficient  time.  There  need  be  no  tearing 
if  one  is  careful  in  taking  the  clothes  from  the  machine. 
Very  fine  lingerie,  or  a  number  of  little  pieces  like  handker- 
chiefs or  collars,  can  be  placed  in  bags  made  of  cheese-cloth, 
or  net  bags  especially  made  for  the  purpose  which  may  be 
bought  in  any  laundry  supply  house.  These  supply  houses 
will  be  found  in  all  large  cities.  The  nearest  one  may  be 
learned  from  any  public  laundry  or  hospital  laundry. 

Hand  Washers. — A  number  of  small  washing  appliances 
must  be  grouped  with  the  so-called  hand  washing 
machines.  Several  devices  are  in  the  form  of  a  vacuum 
boiler,  on  the  principle  of  a  coffee  percolator.  It  is 
easily  handled,  light  in  weight,  easily  kept  clean  and 
costs  little.  It  is  used  by  placing  it  in  the  bottom  of  a 
clothes  boiler,  funnel  side  down.  The  clothes  are  dis- 
tributed evenly  around  it,  the  boiler  filled  with  cold 
water,  to  which  shaved  soap  has  been  added.  If  the 
special  stains  have  been  removed,  the  soaking  in  cold 
water  and  the  slow  heating  will  remove  the  usual  ones — 
such  as  egg,  meat  juice,  oil,  cream,  etc.  This  washer 
cannot  be  used  for  colored  clothes  or  woolens,  because, 
for  both,  boiling  is  impossible.  It  is  such  a  good  labor 
saver,  and  is  so  inexpensive  that  it  can  easily  be  afforded 
by  the  saving  accomplished  on  the  other  clothes.  The 
cost  is  $1.50  to  $3.50. 

Again,  there  is  the  funnel  type  whose  principle  is 
that  of  a  suction  washer.     It  is  a  hollow  cone,  and  may 


Equipment.  135 

be  bought  for  any  type  of  wash-tub;  and  where  set 
tubs  are  not  in  use,  it  can  be  purchased  with  a  galvanized 
iron  tub,  mounted  on  legs,  with  a  water  outlet  in  the 
bottom.  This  machine  has  its  own  stove  and  the 
clothes  may  be  boiled  in  the  tub.  Again  the  ease  of  the 


Courlesy  of  Dodge  &  Zuill. 

FUNNEL  TYPE. 


leverage  is  increased  by  a  heavy  spring,  which  draws 
the  handle  quickly  away  from  the  worker.  The  kind 
of  a  device  to  be  used  in  a  stationary  tub,  costs  $8; 
the  one  with  its  own  tub,  such  as  would  be  of  service 


136  Laundering. 

in  the  country,  or  in  camps  where  there  are  no  stationary 
tubs,  costs  from  $14  to  $16. 

Another  funnel  device  has  recently  appeared.  It 
is  constructed  with  four  smaller  sections  inside  which 
increase  the  suction.  This  appliance  can  be  found  in 
three  sizes,  with  a  long  and  a  short  handle,  so  that  it 
may  be  used  in  wash  tubs,  and  wash  basins  as  well. 


Capacity. — The  smaller  power-driven  machines  have  their 
capacity  measured  by  the  number  of  double  sheets  that 
they  can  wash  at  one  time.  If  a  machine  is  said  to  wash 
eight  double  sheets,  perhaps  better  work  will  be  found 
to  result  by  attempting  only  seven.  Full-sized  table- 
cloths would  be  counted  as  sheets,  four  or  five  towels  are 
equal  to  a  double  sheet,  and  three  aprons  to  a  sheet,  etc. 

Materials. — A  wooden  washer  will  wash  the  clothes  as  well 
as  a  metal  one  and  costs  less,  but  requires  more  care. 
It  gives  the  greatest  service  when  used  in  places  where 


Equipment.  137 

not  continuously  heated  as  in  city  houses,  because  if 
left  dry  in  such  a  place  it  shrinks  and  leaks  water,  and 
over-soaking  will  make  it  slimy.  A  wet  sponge  is  better 
than  letting  water  stand  in  the  tub.  Soap  and  water 
will  clean  the  metal.  Machines  should  be  allowed  to 
dry  after  use  and  the  cover  replaced  to  keep  them  clean. 

To  Set  Up. — Place  washer  in  working  conjunction  with  the 
wash  tub,  pipe  hot  and  cold  water  to  the  tub  by  means 
of  a  single  faucet  (bath-tub  fashion)  to  which  a  hose 
can  be  attached  and  be  led  to  the  machine.  This  entirely 
eliminates  pailing  water. 

Every  machine  has  a  water  outlet,  and  only  a  little 
thought  and  money  are  required  to  have  a  drain  from 
this  outlet  as  from  any  set  wash  tub.  The  outlet  may 
be  a  funnel  which  leads  into  a  pipe  or  a  trough.  Better 
work  will  result  from  this  saving  of  effort,  as  it  means 
the  worker  will  be  more  likely  to  rinse  the  clothes 
thoroughly. 

To  Operate. — See  that  the  machine  is  well  oiled  and  belts 
tight  enough  to  save  power.  Have  the  soap  in  solu- 
tion. (See  recipe,  page  45.) 

Clothes  may  be  soaked  in  two  ways  for  the  power 
home  washer.  One  way:  Put  clothes  in  adjoining  tub 
to  soak ;  after  ten  minutes  run  through  the  wringer  into 
the  machine  which  contains  hot  soapy  water  ready  to 
receive  the  clothes.  Second  way:  Fill  machine  with  a 
third  or  fourth  of  the  capacity  amount  of  cold  water, 
put  in  clothes,  soak  five  to  ten  minutes  with  the  machine 
in  action;  then  run  in  hot  water  (and  it  should  be  quite 
hot,  as  the  clothes  are  cold),  add  soap  solution  until 
good  lasting  suds  are  formed — about  one  pint  of  soap 
to  a  six-sheet  washer.  Run  the  machine  ten  minutes. 


138  Laundering. 

Then  pass  the  clothes  through  the  wringer  into  the  tub 
prepared  with  very  hot  rinse  water.  Use  clothes  stick, 
as  water  for  all  white  cottons  and  linens  is  too  hot  for 
hands.  The  machine  is  emptied,  filled  with  cold  water 
for  the  rinse.  Rinse  five  minutes  and  blue.  The  clothes 
are  ready  for  the  bluing,  which  may  be  done  in  the 
machine  if  care  is  given.  Bluing  cannot  be  well  done 
without  a  great  deal  of  water,  and  the  blue  should  be 
mixed  with  a  pail  full  of  water  and  poured  into  the 
machine.  With  rotary  or  pressure  and  suction  washers, 
the  blue  is  added  with  the  machine  in  action.  Three 
minutes  is  enough  for  this.  In  the  small  washers  the 
bluing  had  better  be  done  in  the  tub.  A  family  wash 
may  be  done  in  sorted  lots,  table  linen,  bed  and  body 
linen,  colors,  flannels  and  silks,  and  when  so  much  is 
done  at  one  load  the  worker  can  afford  time  to  rinse 
well,  using  the  machine  and  power  wringer,  and  when 
the  machine  works  she  can  be  using  thit  time  to  make 
starch  or  starch  clotnes  or  hang  to  dry. 

Woolens  are  well  done  by  machines,  but  the  water 
temperature  must  be  carefully  considered.  (See  page 
94.) 

Cost. — The  cost  varies  with  the  material  used  in  construc- 
tion, strength  of  motor,  and  accuracy  and  endurance  of 
mechanical  parts. 

Rotary    machines    (electric    motor),    $75    to    $175. 

Hand-driven,  $6  to  $18. 
Rotary  machines  (water  motor),  $35  to  $50. 
Oscillating  machines  (electric  motor),  $125  to  $150. 

Hand-driven,  $12.00. 

Pressure  and  suction  (electric  motor),  $125  to  $150. 
Hand-driven,  $1.50  to  $18. 


Equipment.  139 

Operating  cost  for  electric  machines  about  If  to  2  cents 
per  hour. 

Wash  Tubs. — One  to  three  tubs  should  be  in  every  laundry. 
A  tub  and  a  sink  combination  will  be  found  most  useful 
where  a  washing  machine  and  one  tub  are  considered. 
Stationary  tubs  are  most  convenient,  as  they  eliminate 
lifting  and  can  have  a  drain  easily  connected  even  if 
hot  and  cold  water  piped  to  them  is  not  possible.  These 
tubs  are  made  of  various  kinds  of  material  which  makes 
it  possible  to  come  within  every  one's  means.  In  all 
cases,  legs,  piping  and  faucets  are  extra. 

A  few  suggestions  will  help  in  the  choosing  of  a  tub. 
Wooden  set  tubs  are  cheap,  but  not  durable,  and  hard 
to  keep  sweet  and  clean.  A  single  tub  without  plumb- 
ing connection  costs  about  $8.  Concrete  and  stone, 
easily  cleaned,  with  round  corners,  about  $12  per  unit. 
Slate  is  not  expensive,  but  not  a  pretty  color,  about 
$16  to  $19  per  double  tubs.  Soapstone  comes  in  single 
sections.  The  color  is  gray,  material  fairly  durable,  but 
porous.  Cost  $13  to  $18.  Porcelain  tubs  are  durable, 
easily  cleaned  with  soap  and  water  or  a  little  kerosene 
with  a  cloth  (no  abrasive  material),  but  are  expensive, 
costing  $36  to  $40  for  the  white  porcelain,  and  $27  to 
$29  for  the  yellow  porcelain. 

A  stationary  tub  should  be  set  sufficiently  high  so  the 
worker's  back  is  straight,  and  so  the  forward  bending  is 
from  the  waist.  For  a  woman  about  five  feet  five  inches 
tall,  the  top  rim  of  a  tub  can  be  about  thirty-six  inches 
from  the  floor.  Gas  piping  will  make  legs  of  the  desired 
height  if  those  belonging  to  the  tub  are  too  short.  The 
faucets  should  either  be  bell  type  or  they  should  be  set 
above  the  tub,  so  that  by  no  chance  the  clothes  may 
catch  and  tear  on  them. 


140 


Laundering. 

If  the  expense  of  a  ^stationary  tub  seems  impossible, 
wooden  or  papier-mache  tubs  may  be  bought,  and  they 
may  stand  on  a  bench.  These  benches  are  usually  low, 
but  they  can  be  blocked  up  to  make  them  higher,  and 
so  lift  the  tubs.  Even  this  simple,  inexpensive  equip- 
ment may  be  stationary,  and  hot  or  cold  water  piped  to 
the  tubs.  Holes  may  be  made  in  the  bottom  of  either 
tub  and  a  plug  put  in  for  drainage  to  a  pipe  or  a  trough. 

It  is  not  always  the  expensive  equipment  that  is  the 
most  serviceable  and  complete. 


Courtesy  of  Lovell  Mfg.  Co. 

WRINGER. 

Wringers. — A  wringer  greatly  assists  in  hand  washing.  One 
for  a  stationary  tub  would  be  more  helpful  if  it  were  of 
reversible  action,  so  that  it  could  be  put  between  two 
tubs  and  used  without  change.  Wringers  can  be  pur- 
chased at  from  $2  to  $8,  but  it  pays  to  consider  the  better 
quality,  which  should  mean  hard  rubber  rolls,  heavy 
side  springs  and  ball-bearing  action.  The  care  of  the 


Equipment.  141 

wringer  does  much  to  counterbalance  the  cost  price. 
It  should  never  be  left  with  the  pressure  on  when  not 
in  use,  as  this  will  cause  the  rolls  to  flatten.  Wipe  the 
wringer  dry  and  slip  on  a  cover,  which  can  be  a  loose  bag 
easily  put  on;  and  if  for  any  reason  the  rolls  are  badly 
stained,  they  may  be  wiped  off  with  a  cloth  moistened 
with  kerosene.  Kerosene  removes"  stains  because  oil 
dissolves  rubber  and  this  is  the  principle  involved  in 
cleaning  the  rubber  rolls.  Use  little  kerosene,  wipe 
quickly  to  dissolve  only  a  thin  layer  and  wash  thor- 
oughly to  remove  all  oil.  The  electric  machines  are 
usually  equipped  with  their  own  wringers  which  are 
operated  with  the  same  motor  that  washes  the  clothes. 

Flat  Work  Ironers. — Mangles,  commonly  called,  are  as  much 
a  time  and  labor  saver  to  the  ironer  as  the  washing 


Courtesy  of  Lovell  Mfg.  Co. 

COLD  MANGLE. 

machine  is  to  the  washer.  The  cold  mangle  is  an  old 
device  for  pressing  out  the  creases  from  dampened 
clothes  without  giving  any  gloss,  and  without  any  of 
the  sterilization  which  comes  with  the  usual  hot  iron- 
ing. The  principle  is  like  a  wringer,  with  rolls  of  hard 


142  Laundering. 

wood,  and  springs  at  each  side  which  control  the 
pressure.  It  may  be  clamped  to  any  table  by  the  use 
of  a  thumb  screw.  More  expensive  ones  will  be  found 
with  their  own  table. 

The  clothes  are  slightly  dampened,  rolled  and  then, 
instead  of  being  ironed,  are  folded  and  put  through  the 
mangle.  By  repeating  the  process,  each  time  folding 
to  increase  the  thickness,  the  work  is  made  complete. 
As  there  is  no  heat,  the  pieces  must  be  hung  up  to  dry 
after  pressing.  The  initial  cost  covers  a  large  range, 
from  $6.50  to  $25,  depending  upon  whether  it  consists 
solely  of  the  rolls  which  are  to  be  attached  to  the  table, 
or  whether  a  table  is  its  base,  and  again  upon  the 
strength  and  size  of  the  spring. 

Heated  ironers  may  be  run  by  electricity  or  by  hand. 
One  of  these  is  gas-heated  and  hand- turned;  the  more 
expensive  ones  are  gas-heated  and  electrically-driven. 
A  steel  cylinder  plays  the  part  of  the  iron,  ironing  the 
clothes,  which  are  flat  pieces.  There  are  two  rolls, 
one  a  heated  cylinder,  the  other  a  cloth-covered  cylinder 
which  takes  the  place  of  the  ironing  board.  These 
mangles  cost  from  $25  to  several  hundred  dollars,  the 
price  varying  with  the  size  and  quality  of  the  mechanism, 
and  the  fuel  and  power  cost  depending  on  the  size. 
They  will  be  found  to  use  from  twenty  to  twenty-seven 
cubic  feet  of  gas  per  hour  at  the  cost  of  two  to  two  and 
seven-tenths  cents  per  hour;  the  power,  two  to  five 
cents  per  hour,  depending  upon,  the  size  of  the  mangle. 

Electrically-heated  mangles  are  the  most  expensive, 
costing  about  fifty  cents  an  hour  to  heat  and  twenty-five 
cents  per  hour  to  operate.  This  cost  may  be  reduced  by 
heating  only  one-half  of  the  roll  when  ironing  napkins, 
towels,  and  handkerchiefs;  this  is  possible  through  a 


Equipment. 


143 


cut-off  switch .  Electrically-heated  mangles,  electrically 
driven,  are  of  great  service  where  gas  is  not  possible. 
Cost  from  $200  to  $350. 

Ironers  must  be  covered  with  the  same  care  as  an 
ironing  board  and  the  covers  should  be  kept  clean  and 
free  from  lint.  When  not  in  use  keep  the  mangle  cov- 
ered to  keep  the  machine  free  from  dust.  For  good 
work  the  rolls  should  press  evenly  on  each  other.  This 


HEATED  MANGLE. 

means  that  the  covering  is  of  equal  thickness  on  the 
roll  and  that  the  pressure  is  the  same  at  each  end. 

Buttons  are  harmful  to  the  steam  heated  roll  and 
often  are  broken  in  going  through.  Starched  garments 
should  not  be  mangled.  They  require  a  so-called  body- 
ironer,  if  done  by  machinery,  as  in  the  laundry. 

Wax  the  steel  roll  in  the  same  way  as  an  iron,  and, 
like  an  iron,  be  very  sure  it  is  thoroughly  wiped  off. 
Unbleached  muslin  is  the  best  mangle  cover  and  either 


144  Laundering. 

an  old  blanket  or  heavy  silence  cloth  the  usual  padding. 
Wool  felt  may  be  bought  especially  for  mangles  through 
the  laundry  supply  houses.  Always  remove  pressure 
when  not  using  mangles. 

Ironing  Boards,  Table  and  Sleeve  Boards. — The  ironing 
surface  should  be  very  firm  and  large  enough  to  allow  a 
large  space  to  be  ironed  at  one  time  and  also  to  support 
the  garment  while  it  is  being  ironed.  Sleeve  boards 
should  be  mounted  on  their  own  base  and  have  a  small, 
narrow  end  and  a  large  end.  Tables  are  especially 
useful  for  large  flat  pieces  and  for  drying  sweaters  and 
laces,  while  the  skirt  board  is  a  necessity  for  easy  dress 
and  skirt  ironing.  The  tables  may  be  used  for  sprinkling 
and  starching  by  covering  with  a  piece  of  enamel  cloth. 
The  skirt  board  may  be  stretched  from  table  to  chair, 
but  it  will  be  found  more  convenient  to  have  it  on  its 
own  standard  or  one  end  hinged  to  the  wall  to  be  ready 
for  use  and  quickly  folded  up  against  the  wall  when 
not  in  use. 

A  stationary  iron  standard  with  board,  gas  stove  and 
two  water  pans  may  be  bought.  These  are  most  con- 
venient and  have  been  most  efficiently  arranged,  for 
they  are  used  by  the  commercial  and  institutional 
laundries  where  efficiency  must  be  considered. 

To  fasten  the  ironing  pads  and  covers,  thumb  tacks 
may  be  used,  or  the  pads  may  be  tacked  on  and  the 
muslin  covers  tied  or  snapped  on.  To  buy  muslin  for 
covers,  choose  that  which  is  sixty  inches  wide,  so  the 
width  of  the  muslin  may  be  the  length  of  the  cover. 
This  does  away  with  waste  lengths,  so  is  no  more  expen- 
sive. Cut  the  muslin  wide  enough  to  have  the  cover 
turn  about  two  inches  under  all  sides  of  the  boards. 


Equipment. 


145 


Hem  all  sides  with  a  half -inch  hem,  and  sew  tapes,  five 
or  six  to  a  side.  The  tapes  will  make  the  covering  and 
removing  of  covers  a  matter  of  a  few  seconds,  no  noise, 
no  time  needed  to  pull  out  tacks.  Two  covers  to  each 
board  or  table  will  mean  time  saving  and  a  clean  cover 
always  ready. 


TYPES  OF  IRONS. 


Irons. — Irons,  no  matter  what  their  heating  appliance,  should 
first  be  considered  for  their  weight  and  for  their  shape. 
The  worker  with  the  old-fashioned  flat-iron  should  have 
three  irons  ready  for  use.  The  weight  of  any  of  these 
three  flat-irons  must  be,  after  all,  more  or  less  to  the 
worker's  liking.  Three  in  all  is  rather  a  limited  number 
for  one  who  does  varied  work,  and  especially  for  one 
who  is  to  do  fine  lingerie.  She  will  find  that  besides 
her  three — varying  in  weight  from  five  to  eight  pounds 
—she  needs  a  small  iron  with  a  decided  point  for  little 
ruffles  and  for  narrow  edgings,  such  as  might  be  found 
on  baby's  clothes.  For  perfect  sleeve  work  she  will 
like  the  long,  narrow  sleeve-iron,  which  noses  its  way 
well  into  the  gathers  and  tucks  of  the  sleeve.  Irons 
with  adjustable  handles  are  desired  by  some  ironers, 
as  no  cloth  holder  is  required.  Fluting  or  ruffle  irons 
are  efficient  and  make  many  garments  most  attrac- 
tive. Plaiting  can  be  done  with  knife  ("knife  plaiting ") 
or  with  the  fingers  and  the  irons. 


146  Laundering. 

Electric  irons,  gas  and  alcohol  irons  are  most  helpful 
in  reducing  the  heat  in  the  summer  and  are  economical 
besides.  They  require  no  hot  stove,  no  walking  to  and 
fro  to  change  iron,  and  some  are  of  great  convenience 
in  travelling. 

Electric  Irons — The  electric  iron  is  perhaps  the  best  of  the 
recent  new  irons  as  an  efficient  economizer  of  time 
and  labor.  An  iron  of  from  six  to  eight  pounds  is  the 
best  for  rapid  ironing,  because  unless  an  iron  be  suffi- 
ciently large  to  have  considerable  heating  surface,  it 


Courtesy  of  Vulcan  Electric  Heating  Co. 

IRON. 

will  cool  with  heavy  ironing  faster  than  it  heats.  As  a 
safety  device  to  these  irons,  it  is  wise  to  have  a  small 
one-candle-power  electric  light  connected  with  the 
attachment  plug  to  show  by  its  light  whenever  the  iron 
is  in  use.  It  is  an  advantage  to  have  the  wire  lifted 
and  held  by  a  "bird-cage"  spring,  which  also  gives  it 
play  as  it  is  used.  Keep  the  wire  from  knotting  or 
twisting,  because  the  fine  individual  wires  of  which 
the  cord  is  made  are  as  fine  as  No.  60  spool  cotton, 
and  the  bending  back  and  forth  which  the  knotting 
and  twisting  does  causes  these  wires  to  break.  The 


Equipment. 


147 


conductor  of  the  current  is  not  only  broken,  but  often 
.these  broken  ends  come  in  contact-  with  metal  and 
give  a  spark,  and  many  sparks  may  produce  a  flame. 

Gas  Irons  are  like  a  small  stove  with  the  gas  burning  in 
them.     Many  of  these  irons  turn  so  that  as  the  bottom 


is  being  used  and  cools,  the  top  is  heating  ready  to  be 
turned  to  do  the  ironing.  This  is  a  good  point,  as 
often  the  iron  cools  faster  than  the  heat  can  reheat 
and  two  irons  would  otherwise  be  needed. 

Be  sure  the  rubber  hose  conducting  the  gas  is  flexible 
and  of  good  rubber — preferably  wound  with  wire  to 
prevent  its  knotting  or  twisting. 


148  Laundering. 

Alcohol  Irons  burning  denatured  alcohol  are  of  great  ser- 
vice, because  they  can  be  used  in  all  homes  where  gas 
or  electricity  is  not  possible  and  are  of  great  use  in 
travelling.  Their  construction  is  not  unlike  the  gas 
iron,  except  that  they  carry  their  fuel  tank  on  their 
back,  so  to  speak. 

With  either  the  gas  or  the  alcohol  iron,  see  that  it  is 
so  constructed  that  its  flame  is  always  blue  and  not 
yellow  which  will  soot  the  iron;  and  that  its  flame 
does  not  flare  backwards,  as  burning  backwards  may 
be  dangerous. 

To  Choose  an  Iron. — Consider  weight,  and  for  all  self -heating 
irons  examine  the  extent  of  their  heating  surface.  An 
iron  should  heat  so  evenly  that  its  scorch  is  even.  This 
can  be  tested  by  a  folded  piece  of  new  cloth  or  even 
paper.  If  there  are  spots  that  do  not  scorch,  they  show 
uneven  heating.  A  good  iron  of  even  heating  power 
and  good  metal  should  hold  its  heat  for  a  reasonable 
time  and  not  cool  quickly  on  light-weight  fabrics. 

Care  of  Irons. — Clean  irons  are  necessary  for  good  results. 
To  clean,  wash  the  common  flat-irons  like  a  pan  and 
rub  with  sand  soap,  Dutch  Cleanser,  ashes  or  salt. 
Then  wash  with  hot,  soapy  water,  rinse  in  hot  water, 
wipe  dry,  and  when  dry,  warm  and  cover  with  a  thin 
coating  of  wax.  To  clean  the  self-heating  irons,  warm 
them  by  burning  their  own  fuel,  rub  with  wax  and  then 
rub  in  salt,  Dutch  Cleanser,  or  on  emery  paper.  Wipe 
with  a  cloth,  wax  and  rub  clean. 

Cost. — Flat-irons  average  about  five  cents  a  pound;  gas 
irons  from  $1.50  to  $6.50  per  piece,  and  the  operating 
cost  is  about  half  a  cent  per  hour.  Electric  irons  aver- 


Equipment. 


149 


age  $1  a  pound  and  cost  three  or  four  cents  per  hour  to 
operate. 

Clothes  Driers  vary  from  the  hemp  clothes-line,  taken 
down  after  each  drying,  copper  wires,  stretched  taut 
and  left  out  permanently,  to  revolving  driers  mounted 
either  on  a  post  in  the  yard  or  on  a  projecting  arm  from 
a  porch  or  window. 


CLOTHES  DRIERS. 

Indoor  driers  vary  from  the  clothes  horse  to  a  rack 
which  is  pulled  by  pulley  to  the  ceiling  (very  convenient 
for  limited  spaces,  costing  about  $5.00).  Where  one 
is  entirely  dependent  on  indoor  drying,  driers  may  be 
built  in.  They  may  have  the  stove  attached  and  they 
are.  connected  with  a  flue  outlet  so  the  moisture  is  quite 
free  to  escape.  With  this  ventilation  clothes  are  not 
likely  to  yellow. 


1 50  Laundering. 

Clothes  Sprinklers. — Saving  of  time  and  effort  has  made  us 
lay  aside  the  use  of  the  hand  as  a  sprinkler  for  a  method 
which  is  quicker  and  with  most  workers  gives  more  even 
results.  There  are  various  kinds:  a  whisk  broom  set 
aside  for  the  purpose,  five  cents;  a  sprayer  that  may  be 
used  in  any  pint  bottle,  ten  cents;  a  tin  can  with  a 
handle  at  one  side,  and  a  finely  perforated  top  at  thirty- 


Courtesy  of  Jos.  L.  Cohen,  New  York. 

PAPIER-MACHE  CLOTHES  HAMPER. 

five  to  forty  centb;  a  rubber  bulb  sprayer  like  that  used 
for  spraying  plants;  and  a  fine  mist  sprayer  attached 
to  a  hose.  These  are  all  efficient,  but  the  most  suit- 
able is  the  one  easily  dried,  with  fine  holes,  and  njt  too 
expensive. 

Clothes  Hampers  and  Baskets. — The  usual  distinction  is 
that  the  basket  is  used  in  the  laundry  and  the  hamper 


Equipment.  151 

as  a  soiled  clothes  container  holding  the  linen  that  is 
waiting  to  be  washed.  The  hampers  may  be  woven 
baskets  like  those  used  most  in  homes,  or  they  may  be 
metal  cans  as  used  in  hospitals,  or  may  be  papier-mache, 
white  enamel  painted.  The  latter  two  have  much  in 
their  favor,  as  they  may  be  washed  with  soap  and  water, 
hot  rinsed  and  wiped  dry.  Again,  they  are  smooth  and 
afford  less  chance  for  collecting  dirt  and  hence  germs. 
Bags  for  collecting  and  holding  soiled  linen  are  good, 
provided  they  can  be  washed.  They  should  be  sent 
each  week  to  the  laundry  as  the  soiled  clothes  are  sent. 
Wicker  hampers  may  have  muslin  bag  linings  and  these 
linings  may  be  washed.  Have  two,  so  that  while  one  is 
drying  a  second  one  may  be  slipped  in.  Baskets  may  be 
lined  as  suggested  for  hampers,  and  if  put  on  wheels 
they  will  be  of  greater  help,  as  there  will  be  no  need  of 
lifting  them  or  no  occasion  of  dragging  them  and  wearing 
-  them  out. 

Iron  Holders. — Iron  holders  may  be  bought  for  a  small  sum, 
five  and  ten  cents.  They  are  made  of  ticking  and 
asbestos,  but  many  prefer  to  make  their  own,  which 
can  be  done  with  no  expense  other  than  the  woman's 
time.  Folded  stockings  covered  with  denim  or  with 
ticking  make  excellent  holders,  as  the  stockings  are  good 
non-conductors  of  heat.  Two  holders  will  make  ironing 
easier,  as  a  change  from  a  hot  to  a  cold  holder  is  restful 
to  the  hand. 

Clothes  Pins. — Clothes  pins  should  be  bought  of  the  best 
quality  and  should  be  kept  very  clean  by  keeping  them 
in  a  bag.  A  bag  made  like  an  apron  is  most  convenient, 
as  the  pins  may  be  right  at  hand.  Make  the  pockets 
broad  rather  than  deep. 


152  Laundering. 

Curtain  Stretchers  are  of  great  use  in  finishing  long  lace  cur- 
tains or  shaping  blankets.  They  are  not  expensive, 
therefore  choose  the  best.  The  frame  should  be  very 
substantial  to  prevent  warping;  an  easel  is  a  great 
convenience,  as  it  means  the  stretcher  may  be  placed 
out  of  the  way.  The  pins  may  be  movable  with  the  idea 
cf  fitting  all  scallops,  but  the  stationary  pins  are  more 
substantial  and  very  satisfactory.  For  straight  edges 
to  be  pinned,  one  may  baste  to  the  edge  of  the  curtain 
a  piece  of  tape,  and  the  pinning  be  done  on  this.  Some 
prefer  to  tack  tape,  ticking  or  unbleached  muslin  to 
heavy  strips  of  wood  which  can  be  clamped  together 
and  then  pin  to  these  instead  of  using  the  frame.  Tl  is 
latter  frame  can  easily  be  made  in  the  home. 

Stoves. — So  far  nothing  has  been  said  concerning  stoves  for 
the  laundry.  They  are  almost  legion,  from  wood,  coal 
or  gas,  shaped  to  hold  just  irons;  better  still,  they 
should  heat  the  water,  heat  the  irons  and  have  a  place 
to  boil  the  clothes  or  the  starch.  These  stoves  need  not 
be  large  to  do  all  this  work.  Cost  varies  from  $4  to  $18. 

Starching  Outfit. — The  pans  for  starching  and  for  cooking 
starch  should  be  chosen  with  the  thought  of  having 
material  which  is  easily  kept  clean,  and  the  cooking 
saucepan  should  be  heavy  enough  to  prevent  scorching. 
A  wooden  spoon,  quart  measuring  cup,  tablespoon  and 
teaspoon  will  complete  the  outfit. 

Testing  Outfit. — Much  of  the  testing  can  be  done  with  an 
ordinary  teacup  and  saucepan  with  perhaps  a  glass  or 
two;  but  it  will  be  found  that  a  few  glass  test-tubes,  a 
measuring  glass,  two  or  three  glass  beakers,  a  package 
of  filter  paper  (about  four  inches  in  diameter),  a  glass 
funnel  (about  three  inches  across),  will  make  the  testing 


Equipment.  .153 

easier,   as  with  glass,   quantities  can  be  more  easily 
measured  and  results  more  easily  determined. 

INSTITUTIONAL  MACHINERY 

The  general  suggestions  concerning  the  wall  and  floor 
finish  of  the  home  laundry  may  be  considered  for  the  institu- 
tional laundry.  The  whole  room  or  rooms  should  be  built 
with  the  idea  of  good  ventilation  and  good  light,  and  with 
every  consideration  that  will  promote  the  best  sanitary  con- 
ditions. Naturally  the  problem  is  a  larger  one  with  the  work 
carried  on  in  a  building  by  itself.  If  the  floor  space  is  not 
extremely  valuable,  the  building  may  be  broad  and  of  one 
story.  In  this  case  the  room  is  divided  by  either  a  definite 
partition  or  by  arranging  the  equipment  one  part  as  the 
wash  room  and  the  other  the  ironing  section,  with  the 
thought  that  one  section  contains  the  washing  outfit  and 
the  other  section  the  ironing  outfit.  Even  so,  it  is  only  a 
difference  of  size,  because  the  idea  of  arranging  the  equip- 
ment with  the  thought  of  right  relationship  and  economy 
of  space  and  time  is  the  same  as  in  a  small  laundry. 

With  a  greater  quantity  of  soiled  linen  to  be  cleaned, 
there  should  be  a  special  room  planned  for  the  delivery  and 
sorting  of  clothes,  and  it  should  be  adjoining  the  wash  room. 
A  second  small  room  adjoining  the  ironing  room  is  needed 
for  the  sorting  and  collecting  of  clean  linen.  There  should 
be  a  room  for  the  work  people,  properly  equipped  with  lockers 
and  dressing  facilities. 

If  the  plant  is  very  extensive,  it  naturally  must  be  increased 
in  height,  and  in  this  case  the  division  of  departments  is 
brought  about  by  having  each  department  on  a  floor  by 
itself.  Height  of  building  overcomes  expense  of  land,  but 
of  course  involves  expense  of  elevators  and  lifts,  as  well  as 
more  supervision  by  heads  of  departments. 


154  Laundering. 

Anything  that  has  been  said  concerning  the  arrangement 
of  washing  machines  or  wash  tubs  may  be  transferred  in 
thought  to  the  arrangement  of  power  washing  machinery. 
The  washing  machines  (two  are  greater  economy  than  one) 
should  be  grouped  close  together,  so  that  one  drain  may  be 
the  outlet  for  the  several  machines.  One  extractor,  which 
is  the  wringer  in  a  big  laundry,  will  extract  the  clothes  washed 
by  two  machines.  This  extractor  then  should  be  put  between 
the  machines,  in  direct  line  with  them,  or  set  off  from  them 
with  a  passageway  between,  in  a  right-angle  triangle  rela- 
tionship. In  this  latter  arrangement  the  extractor 'has  its 
own  drain.  If  a  tumbler  is  used,  for  efficiency's  sake  place 
it  near  the  extractor,  as  the  clothes  go  directly  from  the 
extractor  to  the  tumbler.  Some  of  the  more  modern  tumblers 
today  are  heated,  so  that  simultaneously  as  the  clothes  are 
being  shaken,  ready  for  mangling  or  for  starching,  they  are 
partially  dried.  This  machine  is  especially  good  for  flannels, 
as  the  tossing  while  drying  keeps  them  soft  and  fluffy. 

Driers  are  of  special  use  for  collars,  cuffs  and  shirt  bosoms, 
as  the  more  modern  way  of  making  starch  and  starching 
no  longer  necessitates  drying  before  ironing.  The  aprons, 
dresses,  coats,  and  trousers  go  direct  to  the  power  ironer, 
leaving  only  the  cuffs,  collars  and  shirts  for  the  drier.  A 
' '  conveyer ' '  drier  is  established  for  this  work  and  it  "  trolleys ' ' 
the  clothes  in  and  around  the  drier,  geared  to  take  a  certain 
length  of  time;  at  the  end  of  the  time  an  automatic  hand 
pushes  the  garment  off  and  it  drops  into  a  basket.  Driers  are 
made  for  curtains  and  blankets  where  each  section  is  like 
a  curtain  stretcher.  These  sections  may  be  pushed  in  like 
drawers,  and  consequently  economize  space. 

Because  indoor  drying  is  without  fresh  air,  there  should  be 
special  thought  to  having  a  circulation  of  what  air  there  is,  so 
that  all  good  driers  are  set  up  with  an  outlet  flue  and  are 


Equipment.  155 

built  with  electric  fans.  The  flue  and  the  fan  promote  a 
rapid  drying,  because  there  is  the  outlet  for  the  warm  moist 
air,  and  the  fan  causes  circulation,  so  there  is  less  chance  of 
yellowing  of  clothes.  Metal  racks  are  preferable  to  wooden 
ones,  as  they  do  not  warp  and  do  not  produce  yellow  streaks 
on  the  clothes.  As  a  safeguard  against  the  racks  marking 
the  clothes,  and  against  soil,  slips  may  be  made  of  canvas 
or  heavy  muslin  to  cover  the  bars.  Make  the  slips  tubular 
like  a  bolster  case,  and  large  enough  so  that  they  slip  on 
easily.  Wrapping  the  bars  bandage  fashion  will  serve  for 
cleanliness,  but  there  is  the  great  work  of  the  wrapping  and 
unwrapping. 

The  ironing  section  should  be  large,  because  the  flat-work 
ironers  or  mangles  occupy  a  great  amount  of  room ;  and  each 
flat-work  ironer  should  have  two  tables  near,  one  to  hold 
garments  to  be  ironed,  and  one  to  receive  them  after  ironing. 
This  table  should  be  covered  with  zinc  or  galvanized  iron 
to  prevent  danger  from  fire.  The  flat  work  taken  from  the 
mangle  and  folded  quickly,  then  stacked  in  piles,  naturally 
holds  a  great  amount  of  heat.  If  this  table  is  large,  there 
will  be  room  for  the  workers  to  sort  and  then  stack  Hire 
kinds  of  goods  as  fast  as  they  fold.  This  does  away  with 
the  second  handling.  Body  ironers,  presses  and  bosom  and 
collar  and  cuff  ironers  should  be  placed  near  the  windows, 
so  that  good  light  comes  from  the  side  of  the  worker.  The 
same  points  concerning  the  cleanliness  and  the  oiling  of  the 
small  machines  may  be  considered  for  the  large  work. 

The  laundry  supply  houses  furnish  various  kinds  of  heavy 
felts  and  pads  for  the  mangles,  and  this  same  material  will 
be  of  service  for  ironing  boards  and  all  small  machine  ironers. 
This  padding  is  expensive,  but  with  care,  which  means  pre- 
venting scorch,  taking  the  pressure  off  of  mangle  and  body 
ironers  as  soon  as  finished,  these  felts  will  last  for  several 


156  Laundering. 

months.  To  re-felt  the  pads,  remove  from  the  rolls,  place 
in  the  washer,  and  with  the  washer  revolving,  turn  on  steam, 
let  run  for  five  or  ten  minutes,  and  the  felt  will  be  soft, 
fluffy  and  ready  for  further  use. 

This  method  of  re-felting  of  course  can  only  be  used  when 
the  felts  are  clean,  as  it  in  no  way  washes.  If  the  felt  is  to 
be  washed,  it  should  be  washed  as  any  wool  by  using  waters 
of  the  same  temperature  and  soap  in  solution.  (See  chapter 
on  Woolens.)  The  muslin  or  canvas  covers  will  need  cleans- 
ing mere  often,  because  they,  like  the  ironing-board  cover, 
get  the  direct  wear.  Usually  these  covers  are  changed  once 
a  week,  on  whatever  day  that  the  plan  of  work  sees  the  wash- 
ing finished.  Many  institutions  close  Saturday  noon  as  soon 
as  the  work  is  finished;  then  the  muslin  or  canvas  covers 
are  taken  from  the  mangles,  washed,  and  may  be  put  on 
by  the  ironers  on  Monday  morning  while  the  clothes 
are  being  washed.  The  covers  of  the  smaller  machines 
are  cleaned  in  the  same  way  and  usually  at  the  same  time. 
The  thought  of  a  regular  day  for  this  work  must  be  laid  aside 
if  the  covers  need  changing  before  that  time.  Clean  cloth- 
ing will  not  come  off  of  soiled  ironing  cloths. 

To  replace  these  clean  felts,  make  a  heavy  paste  of  flour 
and  water,  and  with  a  knife  or  with  a  paint  brush  about  two 
inches  wide,  spread  the  paste  along  one  edge  of  the  felt, 
having  placed  the  felt  under  the  roll  ready  to  be  rolled. 
This  brings  the  paste  on  the  upper  edge  ready  to  adhere 
to  the  felt  which  is  brought  up  to  meet  it.  One  person 
starts  the  machine,  and  one  or  two  others  hold  the  felt, 
resisting  the  machine  while  it  winds  the  felt  around  the  roll. 
The  clean  muslin  is  not  fastened  at  the  starting  end,  but 
about  six  or  eight  inches  of  it  are  laid  under  the  last  lap  of 
the  felt.  Again  the  machine  is  started,  and  its  action  winds 
the  muslin  tightly  around  the  roll.  There  should  be  even 


Equipment.  157 

and  firm  resistance  on  the  part  of  the  person  holding  the 
muslin.  If  the  pressure  is  on  the  flat  work  and  body  ironers 
as  the  covers  are  replaced,  the  result  will  be  smoother,  freer 
from  wrinkles  and  straighter.  A  roll  should  measure  the 
same  in  circumference  along  its  entire  length  and  the  pres- 
sure of  all  rolls  on  the  heated  steel  roll  should  be  equal. 
This  may  be  determined  by  heavy  folded  paper  or  by  a 
heavy  towel  with  the  machine  in  action.  To  test  with  a 
folded  paper  is  like  testing  with  a  wedge — it  should  go  in 
with  the  same  resistance  or  ease  between  the  heated  roll 
and  the  cloth  roll,  and  each  roll  should  give  the  same  pres- 
sure as  its  neighbor.  Uneven  pressure  is  instantly  dis- 
covered if  sheets  or  table  cloths  are  fed  into  the  machine 
perfectly  straight  and  come  out  pulled  with  a  long,  pointed 
corner.  At  the  same  time,  but  not  so  quickly,  it  will  be  seen 
that  the  edge  of  the  mangle  roll  is  no  longer  straight,  but  is 
pushing  out  farther  at  one  end  than  at  the  other.  Continued 
use  of  the  mangle  with  uneven  pressure  will  result  in  torn 
mangle  cloths,  and  is  often  the  reason  for  flat  work  being 
torn.  It  is  economy  to  have  two  sets  ready  for  service, 
as  the  frequent  re-felting  helps  to  preserve  the  pads  and 
requires  time.  The  muslin  or  canvas  covers  from  the  large 
mangles  can  be  cut  down  so  that  the  best  is  used  for  the 
smaller  machines  and  for  the  skirt  and  sleeve  boards. 

Each  machine  should  be  equipped  with  its  own  motor* 
because  then  there  is  no  danger  and  no  inconvenience  from 
the  belts,  which  one  motor  necessitates.  It  means  that  if 
one  machine  is  out  of  order,  the  whole  laundry  is  not  crippled. 
Individual  motors  are  safeguards  because  the  worker  may 
instantly  cut  off  the  power  of  that  special  machine.  Again, 
overhead  belting  requires  much  cage  protection  to  prevent 
catching  of  clothing.  In  all  large  institutions  there  is  plenty 
of  power,  which  is  usually  created  by  the  institution  and 


158  Laundering. 

used  for  many  other  purposes.  In  the  smaller  institutions, 
the  power  may  be  supplied  from  the  city  plant.  Running 
machines  without  giving  them  work,  or  running  them  with 
insufficient  heat,  with  stearti  valves  leaking,  and  running  the 
washers  without  an  established  formula,  represents  great 
waste.  It  seems  like  a  drop  in  the  bucket  in  the  beginning; 
if  added  up  at  the  end  of  the  year,  it  means  large  coal  bills, 
large  water  and  electricity  bills,  and  oftentimes  it  means  a 
big  salary  expense,  because  workers  have  been  standing, 
waiting  for  a  machine  to  have  power  or  heat  to  do  its  work.- 
A  good  head  laundryman  will  be  sure  that  there  is  no  leak- 
age, and  will  see  to  it  that  the  work  and  his  workers  are  suffi- 
ciently organized  to  do  all  and  perhaps  more  than  is  planned 
for  them  without  the  least  waste.  With  this  same  thought 
of  prohibiting  waste,  he  must  have  knowledge  of  the  quality 
of  his  supplies.  Soap  should  be  all  soap,  bluing  entirely 
soluble;  in  fact,  all  supplies  that  are  the  purest  will  be  the 
cheapest. 

To  Clean  Washers. — Wooden  washers  require  little  cleaning, 
as  the  soda  which  is  used  in  most  soap  solutions  bleaches 
the  wood  and  keeps  it  clean.  Metallic  washers  are 
quickly  covered  with  a  scum.  Continued  collecting 
of  this  scum  causes  the  openings  in  the  inner  cylinder 
to  partially  close  and  naturally,  to  a  limited  extent, 
reduces  the  action.  This  scum  needs  to  be  dissolved 
off,  but  should  not  be  done  too  often,  as  it  is  best  done 
with  an  acid,  which,  to  a  certain  extent,  is  injurious 
to  the  copper  and  brass  of  which  the  inner  cylinder  is 
made.  The  injury  is  slight  for  one  time,  but  it  is  enough 
to  warrant  the  washer  being  cleaned  only  at  regular 
intervals,  perhaps  once  or  twice  in  two  months.  Citric 
acid,  oxalic  acid  and  sulphuric  and  hydrochloric  acids 


Equipment.  159 

are  used  for  the  cleaning.  The  least  injurious,  citric 
acid,  is  too  expensive.  Sulphuric  acid  will  cost  about 
half  as  much  as  the  oxalic  acid.  Use  one  pound  of 
acid  to  about  two  inches  of  hot  water  in  the  cylinder. 
Many  prefer  the  hydrochloric  acid  because  it  is  especially 
active  on  the  scum.  Dissolve  the  citric  and  oxalic  acid 
crystals  before  using.  Put  acid  in  a  pail  of  water,  and 
with  the  water  in  the  washer  (just  enough  to  cover  the 
bottom  on  the  inside  of  the  cylinder)  and  the  cage 
open  add  the  acid.  Let  run  for  five  or  ten  minutes 
until  the  washer  clears.  Deliver  and  then  give  several 
hot  rinsings,  to  be  sure  that  no  acid  remains  in  the 

washer  to  injure  it  or  to  injure  the  clothes. 

• 

Loading  Extractors. — In  loading  extractors,  the  heavy 
pieces,  such  as  spreads  and  bath  towels,  should,  when- 
ever possible,  be  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  basket. 
Place  the  goods  in  the  basket  in  bundles  and  pack 
tight.  See  that  the  ends  of  one  bundle  are  entirely 
in  the  basket;  that  is,  do  not  have  loose  ends  hang- 
ing out  to  become  entangled  with  the  next  bundle. 
Move  the  basket  around  and  press  the  linen  against  the 
sides.  By  loading  in  this  way  one  will  not  have  the 
pieces  "crossed"  and  will  avoid  having  the  linen  torn 
or  split,  as  the  extractor  gains  speed.  By  crossed  pieces 
is  meant  where  the  ends  of  a  sheet  or  cloth  are  fastened 
by  the  weight  of  the  load  in  opposite  sides  of  the  basket, 
and  as  the  goods  are  forced  back  by  the  centrifugal 
force,  the  piece  is  stretched  as  tight  as  a  drum  head, 
and  often  splits.  Sleeves,  for  example,  should  be  folded 
into  the  garment  and  bunched  with  it.  Load  the 
extractor  flush  with  the  top  of  a  basket,  then  cover 
with  a  round  canvas  three  inches  larger  than  the  top 


1 60  Laundering. 

of  the  basket  and  start  slowly.  By  using  covers  dirt 
is  kept  out  and  the  clothes  are  kept  in  place.  Never 
hold  the  hand  on  the  extractor  after  it  has  started. 
See  that  it  runs  evenly  and  does  not  wabble.  This 
shows  even  loading,  which  is  most  necessary  to  avoid 
danger  of  strain  on  extractor  pivot. 

To  Make  Soap  Solution. — To  use  soap  powders  in  an  insti- 
tution is  considered  by  most  workers  to  be  very  ex- 
travagant. To  use  all  soap  is  expensive.  Washing 
soda  of  a  high  quality,  such  as  is  specially  prepared 
for  laundries  today,  is  considered  harmless  if  it  is 
combined  in  the  soap  solution.  Nothing  is  so  harm- 
fuj,  wasteful  and  reckless  as  to  allow  soda  to  be  thrown 
by  cupfuls  or  handfuls  into  the  washer.  A  washing 
solution  must  be  established  to  suit  different  kinds 
of  water.  Some  of  the  hard  waters  will  require  more 
soda  in  the  soap  solution  than  others.  The  water 
should  be  measured,  the  soap  weighed,  and  the  two 
heated  at  a  low  temperature  in  the  soap  tank  until 
all  soap  is  dissolved  and  the  liquor  is  amber  color. 
The  weighed  quantity  of  soda  is  sprinkled  in,  and  the 
solution  simmered  another  ten  minutes.  For  a  general 
idea  of  proportion  one  may  use,  if  water  is  hard : 

5  Ibs.  of  soap. 
10  Ibs.  of  soda. 
25  gallons  of  water. 

The  capacity  of  the  soap  tank  gauges  the  amount  of 
soap  and  soda  to  be  used.  Generally  speaking,  the 
ratio  is  one  part  of  soap,  one  part  soda  and  five  parts 
water,  the  soda  being  decreased  or  increased  according 
to  the  nature  of  the  water  with  care  that  soda  is  not  in 


Equipment.  161 

great  excess.  By  excess  is  meant  that  the  soda  should 
not  be  more  than  is  needed  to  soften  the  water  and 
produce  good  suds  with  the  soap  used. 

To  Make  Bluing. — Dissolve  one  ounce  of  aniline  blue  in 
one  gallon  of  warm  water.  When  entirely  dissolved, 
filter  through  filter  paper  and  bottle.  To  a  200-shirt 
washer,  use  one  ounce  of  this  bottled  solution.  Intro- 
duce it  into  the  revolving  washer  by  first  adding  it  to 
a  pail  of  water.  (The  various  bluings  prepared  by  the 
various  manufacturers  and  sold  in  the  different  laundry 
supply  houses  usually  come  with  directions  for  their 
use.  If  the  bluings  are  to  be  soured  or  acidulated,  the 
proportions  are  usually  given.) 

Wash  Formulas — (large  machine). 

I.    FOR  WHITE  GOODS. 

Cold  soak,  1  inch  in  washer 10  minutes 

Deliver. 

Hot  water  plus  soap,  1  inch 20 

Steam 20 

Deliver. 
Hot  water,  1  inch 10 

Deliver. 

Hot  water,  1  inch 10 

Cold  water,  1  inch. 10        " 

Deliver. 
Cold  water,  3  inches  plus  bluing 5 

Deliver. 
Extract. 
Clothes  must  be  rinsed  until  water  is  clear. 


1 62  Laundering. 

II.     DIRTY  CLOTHES. 

Cold  soak,  2  inches  in  washer 10  minutes 

Deliver. 
Cold  water  and  soda,  1  inch 10 

Deliver. 
Cold  water  and  soap  and  steam,  1  inch  20 

Deliver. 
Hot  water,  1  inch 10 

Deliver. 
Hot  water,  1  inch 10 

Deliver. 
Cold  water,  1  inch 10 

Deliver. 
Cold  water  and  blue,  2  to  3  inches 5 

The  above  is  for:  Automobile  coats. 
Body  Clothing. 
Kitchen  towels. 
Overalls. 

There  is  always  enough  water  in  any  washer  if  it 
rises  about  half  an  inch  above  the  clothes  when  they 
are  pressed  down  hard  with  the  hand. 


PART   III 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
METHODS 

REASONS  FOR  LAUNDERING 

The  laundering  of  clothing  is  most  vital  to  the  welfare 
and  health  of  the  individual.  As  unclean  food  may  produce 
disease,  so  may  soiled  clothing.  Clean  clothing  is  emphat- 
ically important,  and,  with  the  other  big  divisions  of  food  and 
shelter,  ought  to  be  treated  with  equal  emphasis.  Clothes 
must  be  changed,  and  clean  ones  put  on,  for  they  keep  the 
body  warm,  because  through  the  pores  of  clean  clothes  air 
may  get  to  the  body.  Dirty  clothes  can  no  longer  absorb. 

Laundering  by  good  methods  gives  us  not  only  better 
looking  clothes,  but  makes  the  clothing  sterile.  Soap  is 
alkaline,  and,  together  with  the  heat  of  boiling  and  ironing, 
we  have  present  the  two  conditions  which  promote  sterile 
clothing.  It  is  definitely  proven  that  well  washed  clothes 
are  sterile  for  all  purposes  but  an  open  w^ound. 

Laundries  are  classed  as  factories,  and  are  controlled  by 
state  and  city  laws  and  supervised  by  the  board  of  health. 
Municipal  laundries  should  be  established  in  every  city,  as 
it  is  one  of  the  greatest  ways  by  which  the  health  of  the 
community  may  be  guarded.  For  poor  families  a  municipal 
laundry  ought  to  be  as  much  a  social  consideration  as  a 
public  bath. 

Inspectors  of  laundries  are  almost  more  important  than 
inspectors  of  markets,  because  few  housekeepers  go  to  see 
w^here  their  clothes  go.  Trained  sanitary  experts  should  be 
appointed  for  this  work.  Social  workers  have  much  to  do 
to  teach  the  sanitary  need  of  clean  clothes,  clean  laundries 
and  clean,  healthy  workers;  shorter  hours  with  consequent 

(165) 


166 


Laundering. 


less  fatigue,  and  also  that  washer-women's  homes  should  be 
inspected  for  their  cleanliness. 

Laundry  experts  are  needed  especially  to  organize  the 
laundry  department  of  institutions;  they  are  as  important 
in  their  department  as  a  dietitian.  Their  supervision  should 
help  to  reduce  the  great  cost  of  a  department  which  for  the 
gcod  of  the  institution  must  be  operated. 


HISTORY  OF  LAUNDERING 

Mechanical  History. — The  earliest  known  method  of  wash- 
ing depended  entirely  on  the  action  of  the  running 
water  of  streams.  If  th'e  water  was  not  running,  the 
primitive  peoples  quite  naturally  used  twisting,  shaking, 
flopping,  slapping  and  pounding.  They  were  depend- 
ent on  the  solvent  power  of  water  for  many  kinds  of 
soil,  but  if  any  stain  was  not  soluble  in  water,  there 
was  no  way  to  take  it  out.  We  find  it  stated  that 


Methods. 


167 


in  B.  C.  2000  Egyptians  on  the  Nile  stamped  their 
clothes  with  the  feet,  beat  them  with  white  clay,  and 
wrung  them  by  twisting  and  turning,  one  end  being  held 
between  the  feet.  Homer  in  the  "Odyssey"  tells  of  the 
early  wash  days  in  Greece. 

These  primitive  laundresses  next  tried  to  hasten  the 


process  by  more  mechanical  methods.  They  used  tread- 
ing, pounding  the  clothes  with  sticks  and  stones,  or 
rubbing  them  on  rough  stones — anything  to  create 
friction. 

Platforms  were  built  out  from  the  shore  and  from 
these  platforms  slanting  boards  were  used  and  the 
clothes  were  slapped  on  these — the  first  wash-boards. 


168 


Laundering. 


Boards  were  gradually  made  with  grooves  or  corruga- 
tions, as  the  rough  surface  increased  friction 'and  so 
hastened  cleansing.  This  was  the  origin  of  the  modern 
wash-board — which  will  soon  be  a  thing  of  the  past, 
as  friction  must  cease.  Smoothing  with  a  stick  finally 
was  used  as  an  ironing  process.  It  became  a  machine 


lit 


in  which  several  wooden  pieces  rolled  on  each  other, 
called  a  mange — Italian — from  which  we  get  our  man- 
gle. It  was  invented  in  the  fourteenth  or  fifteenth 
century  and  was  intended  especially  for  weavers.  In 
the  sixteenth  century  small  mangles  were  in  use  in  all 
the  cities. 


Methods.  169 

Queen  Elizabeth  with  her  ruffs  caused  a  certain  Dutch 
woman  to  invent  the  art  of  starching,  so  the  story  goes. 
Teachers  in  this  art  were  called  professors  of  starching 
and  were  paid  five  pounds  for  every  lesson. 

Smoothing  irons  were  made  of  steel  or  brass,  with 
wooden  handles.  Red-hot  iron  or  coals  were  placed  in 
the  body  of  the  iron,  such  as  are  still  used  in  Korea. 

An  ironing  bell  from  which  our  puff  iron  comes  was 
used  for  ironing  ruffs.  Delicate  things  were  not  ironed 
but  were  smoothed  on  a  glass  roller.  We  use  this  today 
for  lace  and  ribbon  in  the  form  of  a  glass  bottle. 

The  story  is  told  that  a  collar  in  London  in  1832  drew 
attention  to  the  question  of  sterilizing  the  clothes;  as 
a  result  a  poor  woman  set  up  a  wash-boiler,  soap  kettle, 
and  other  appliances,  and  so  we  have  the  first  public 
wash-house.  Here  washwomen  paid  a  penny  for  the 
privilege  of  its  use,  and  in  1842  a  public  laundry  was 
established  in  Liverpool. 

Finally  in  this  present  period,  in  the  domestic  laundry, 
wash-boards  and  other  primitive  equipment  are  giving 
way  to  the  various  mechanical  devices  which  are  great 
labor  savers,  and  time  savers,  and  often  indeed  fabric 
savers.  Washing  machines  driven  by  motors,  special 
washing  devices  for  clothes,  boilers  and  wash-tubs, 
wringers  (even  motor  driven) ,  and  steam  drying  rooms, 
are  making  the  work  less  of  a  drudgery. 

Even  the  irons  are  no  longer  heated  with  smoking 
hot  coals  and  dragged  over  the  garment,  but  by  gas  or 
electricity  giving  off  heat  with  evenness  of  temperature 
and  continued  action. 

Chemical  History. — Water  has  solvent  power.     The  early 
laundress  washed  her  clothes  in  the  running  brook  and 


1 70  .     Laundering. 

the  water  dissolved  out  the  dirt.  To  hasten  its  work 
the  laundress  often  pounded  the  clothes  with  a  paddle 
or  stone  or  trod  them.  This  process  was  slow,  and  as 
time  became  a  consideration  it  seemed  wise  to  find  some 
cleansing  agent  that  would  add  its  power  to  that  of  the 
water. 


ITALIAN  LAUNDRY. 

The  alkaline  nature  of  urine  was  learned,  and  it  was 
the  custom  to  have  urine  collected  in  large  urns  in  central 
places  in  the  village.  This  became  the  public  source  of 
supply  for  the  first  chemical  aid  in  washing.  Even  in 
our  mother's  early  memory  urine  was  useol  in  dyeing  the 
yarn. 

Later  wood  ashes  were  taken  from  the  housewife's 


Methods. 


171 


fire,  covered  with  water  and  the  pearlash  or  potash  was 
dissolved — "leached."  The  clothes  were  soaked  in 
this,  and  the  pearl-ash  or  lye  aided  in  the  cleaning 
process,  but  it  was  destructive  to  the  clothing.  An 
illustration  of  this  method  is  found  in  the  Italian  caldron, 
where  the  clothes  are  placed,  the  finest  in  the  center, 
covered  with  canvas,  ashes  placed  on  top  and  water 
poured  over. 

To  deaden  the  potash,  later  it  was  mixed  with  kitchen 


ITALIAN  CLOTHES  LINE. 

grease,  thus  making  a  kind  of  soap.  This  soap  was  of 
irregular  composition,  with  the  potash  usually  in  excess. 
This  potash  "broke"  the  hardness  of  the  water,  and  the 
suds  acted  as  a  carrier  of  dirt,  thus  making  a  double 
cleansing  agent. 

The  modern  use  of  soap  demands  that  it  be  a  perfectly 
balanced  one  in  its  proportion  of  grease  and  alkali — 
not  just  any  soap.  There  are  still  inaccuracies  in  present 
methods — -for  instance,  the  extra  handful  of  washing 
soda;  but  this,  too,  is  going,  as  scientific  accuracy 
demands  it  should. 


172  Laundering. 

When  the  soil  of  the  clothes  has  been  studied  and 
means  of  removal  other  than  soap  and  water  have  been 
found,  it  is  learned  that  certain  soil  is  not  soluble  in 
soap  and  water,  but  is  soluble  in  an  acid  or  an  alkali. 
Also  a  knowledge  of  chemistry  and  textiles  has  shown 
how  such  agents  may  be  used  with  little  or  no  injury  ^to 
fabrics. 


With  knowledge  of  fabrics  and  the  stains  likely  to 
occur,  the  trained  worker  may  justly  use  the  acid  and 
alkali  solvent  because  the  chemistry  of  textiles  and 
of  stains  teach  the  use,  care,  dilution  and  neutralization 
of  chemicals  and  show  those  which  are  destructive  to 
individual  fibers. 

FOREIGN  METHODS 

In  France,  at  places  along  the  banks  of  rivers  and  streams, 
women  are  seen  pounding  their  clothes  with  flat  paddles  on 
the  rocks. 


Methods. 


173 


The  peasants  in  Normandy  hollow  out  the  loose  beach 
stones  in  the  path  of  a  fresh-water  spring  on  its  way  to  the 
sea.  When  the  pool  is  filled,  they  put  in  a  large  stone  which 
they  use  as  a  wash-board.  When  clothes  are  washed  and 
rinsed,  they  are  spread  on  the  beach  to  dry. 

In  Holland,  the  little  Dutch  woman  may  be  seen  at  a 


trough  or  boat  landing  on  the  edge  of  the  canal  washing  her 
blue  and  pink  cottons.  Water  is  there  and  enough ;  but  one 
is  likely  to  question  the  merit  of  this  kind  of  washing  from  a 
sanitary  viewpoint. 

The  semi-annual  wash-day  in  some  remote  places  in  Ger- 
many still  prevails.  Long  lines  of  boats  filled  with  the 
accumulated  clothes  may  be  seen  coming  down  the  streams 
until  an  available  spot  is  found,  when  the  work  is  begun. 


174 


Laundering. 


This  work  is  a  task,  as  great  quantities  of  clothes  have 
accumulated.  They  have  been  kept  from  one  wash-day 
to  another  in  an  aired  loft  at  the  top  of  the  house  where  it  is 
possible  to  stretch  clothes-lines. 

Among  the  Norwegians  today  we  find  this  same  plan  of 
accumulating  clothes  for  months,  storing  them  in  specially 


made  compartments  in  the  lofts^and  having  wash-day  two 
or  three  times  a  year.  One  rather  unusual  feature  of  their 
mangling  or  ironing  is  the  use  of  a  long  box  on  rollers.  This 
box  is  filled  with  stones,  and  with  one  woman  at  one  end  and 
one  at  the  other  they  manage  to  do  the  tiring  work  of  rolling 
this  weighted  press  over  the  clothes. 

The  "open-air  laundry"  is  a  very  common  sight  in  Switzer- 
land.    In  the  middle  of  a  street  in  the  village  all  the  washing 


Methods.  175 

processes  are  carried  on.  On  the  wood-stove  is  the  huge 
kettle  in  which  they  boil  their  clothes,  often  two  or  three 
hours.  In  place  of  a  wash-board — for  they  do  no  rubbing 
whatever — there  is  a  long,  inclined  board  upon  which  they 
"throw"  the  clothes  after  being  thoroughly  soaped — 
literally  throw  out  the  dirt. 

COMMUNITY  OR  MUNICIPAL  LAUNDRIES. 

Common  fountains  for  washing  are  used  by  groups  of 
Swiss  peasants.  They  gather  at  the  bowl  or  trough  of  the 
fountain,  working  in  twos  at  first,  and  later  placing  their 
clothes  in  the  different  compartments  of  the  trough  for 
rinsing. 

This  community  work  is  carried  out  on  a  larger  scale  by 
furnishing  public  wash-houses  to  the  poorer  people  in  large 
cities  in  all  countries  abroad.  The  first  one  was  built  in 
Hamburg  in  1852  at  a  cost  of  100,000  marks,  the  city  giving 
ground  space  and  water  free  of  charge.  In  London,  the 
. city's  poor  have  a  pilace  to  do  their  washing,  usually  in 
connection  with  their  public  baths. 

In  Paris  two  classes  of  "lavoirs"  play  a  prominent  part. 
The  first  kind — ''bateau  lavoirs, "  of  which  there  are  about  a 
dozen — are  large  covered  boats  moored  in  the  Seine,  to  which 
washerwomen  go  and  wash  their  clothes  in  cold  running 
water  by  rubbing  with  soap  on  a  board,  or  beating  with  a 
wooden  club  or  mallet.  The  second — the  "lavoirs  pub- 
liques" — are  located  in  every  part  of  the  city,  and  supplied 
with  hydrant  water  from  the  municipal  water  mains.  These 
are  private  business  establishments,  open  to  the  public  on 
payment  of  a  fixed  rate  or  tax  per  hour.  This  entitles  the 
women  to  the  use  of  tubs,  hot  water,  wringing  machine, 
and  a  drying  room  in  which  the  washing  is  dried  by  artificial 
heat.  The  sign  of  this  kind  of  a  laundry  is  generally  a  large 


176 


Laundering. 


tin  flag  painted  with  the  national  colors.     These  laundries 
are  subject  to  the  visitation  and  inspection  of  the  police,  who 
in  such  matters,  are  under  the  control  of  the  sanitary  authori- 
ties or  council  of  hygiene.  j^K 
In  Rome  and  in  other  Italian  cities,  we  find  the  com- 


PUBLIC  WASH-HOUSE 


mercial  "lavatojos"  similar  to  those  found  in  Mexico. 
These  are  usually  roofed  over  to  protect  the  workers  from  the 
hot  sun.  Row  after  row  of  these  Italian  women  are  washing, 
each  working  in  the  divided  trough.  In  some  places  in  Italy 
they  have  their  wash-day — "bucato" — every  two  weeks,  and 
often  a  conca,  or  large  earthen  jar,  is  used  as  a  tub. 


Methods.  177 

The  communistic  idea  is  thus  emphasized  by  many  of  these 
countries,  giving  opportunity  to  the  poor  people.  Baltimore, 
Chicago  and  Philadelphia  have  most  satisfactorily  proven 
the  good  of  such  public  wash-houses  and  laundries.  Every 
city  should  make  such  facilities  possible. 

In  a  municipal  wash-house  the  room  is  divided  into  stalls 
or  compartments,  and  each  is  furnished  with  two  set  tubs 
and  a  wringer.  Here  the  woman  may  take  her  clothes  and 
wash  them  in  privacy,  and  comfort  of  good  equipment  with  an 
abundance  of  *hot  and  cold  water.  Soap  is  supplied  for  a 
few  cents  or  women  may  bring  their  own. 

The  public  laundry  is  steam  equipped,  and  the  work  is 
done  by  power  machines.  The  individual  family  wash  is 
placed  in  bags,  and  as  the  washers  have  four  or  five  com- 
partments, as  many  bundles  may  be  done  at  a  time.  An 
expert  washman  does  the  work,  and  the  owner  calls  for  it 
at  the  close  of  the  day.  The  cost  per  family  bundle  for 
washing  the  clothes  is  about  ten  cents  in  the  wash-house 
and  thirty  cents  in  the  laundry. 

In  the  rural  districts,  co-operative  or  community  laundries 
may  be  established  in  conjunction  with  creameries.  This  is 
possible  through  planning  a  building  with  two  distinct  ends. 
In  each  end  the  machinery  for  either  operation  may  be 
established  and  one  power  house,  rental,  manager  and 
oftentimes  delivery  does  much  to  reduce  the  cost  and  to 
increase  the  prospect  of  getting  some  of  the  work  away  from 
the  already  too  busy  farmer's  wife.  Old  barns  or  even  old 
mills  have  great  possibilities  towards  being  remade  into  a 
laundry. 

SUGGESTIONS  FOR  TEACHERS 

Various  suggestions  are  given  with  the  thought  that  no 
one  rule  will  help  all  who  may  be  planning  to  teach  laundry 
work. 


178  Laundering. 

The  teacher,  especially  if  she  is  a  teacher  of  several  sub- 
jects, as  in  a  grade  school  or  rural  school,  may  like  to  bring 
into  her  work  history  of  laundering,  suggesting  that  the 
students  read  about  foreign  women  and  their  methods.  It 
is  a  most  fascinating  way  to  collect  material  which  repre- 
sents primitive  methods  and  customs,  correlating  with  his- 
tory, geography  and  physics. 

If  the  teacher  of  cookery  wishes  to  give  little  or  much 
laundry  work  to  her  students,  and  must  give  uyn  her  kitchen 
class  room,  portable  benches  which  fold,  camp-chair  fashion, 
and  papier-mache  tubs  can  be  used  to  good  advantage.  If 
there  seems  to  be  no  room  for  this  quantity  of  equipment, 
enamel  pans  or  small  wooden  tubs  of  the  toy  size  may  be 
stood  on  the  table  tops.  Napkins,  handkerchiefs,  students' 
hand  towels,  caps  and  sleeves,  and  the  small  uniform  apron ; 
ribbons,  laces  and  knit  goods  or  gloves  can  easily  be  done 
with  this  equipment.  For  individual  boiling,  the  enamel 
pans  which  have  been  used  for  the  tubs  may  be  placed  on 
the  individual  burners.  Or,  if  time  does  not  warrant  this, 
the  boiler  may  be  placed  on  a  large  cook  stove,  and  each 
student  may  soap  her  own  garment  and  put  it  in  the  large 
class  boiler  to  boil.  At  the  table,  with  these  same  agate  pans, 
or  even  the  small  wash  tubs,  each  student  may  do  her  own 
bluing  and  may  heat  her  irons  on  the  individual  burner 
used  as  a  cook  stove. 

Many  teachers  will  have  to  plan  to  leave  the  clothes  hang- 
ing in  the  laboratory  after  the  class  has  gone,  appointing  one 
student  to  return  to  take  down  all  the  washing  for  this  one 
section.  The  sprinkling  should  be  individual  work  and  may 
be  done  at  the  individual  cooking  table  which  will  afford 
sufficient  ironing  space  for  small  articles.  Small  boards, 
like  dough  boards,  can  be  covered,  to  illustrate  a  large  skirt 
board,  which  may  not  be  possible  to  use  because  of  its  size. 


Methods.  179 

This  gives  an  individual  ironing  space  for  each  student. 
Skirt  boards  may  be  used  by  attaching,  with  a  hinge,  a 
wooden  leg  to  one  end  of  the  board.  When  in  use  one  end 
rests  on  the  table  and  the  leg  supports  the  other  end.  In  this 
way  the  student  may  use  the  individual  stove  for  heating 
the  irons,  and  still  as  many  use  the  table  as  when  cooking. 
The  author  has  found  that  good  work  may  be  done  by  giving 
each  student  a  square  of  padding  and  a  square  of  muslin, 
and  with  a  table  which  has  an  unvarnished  top,  these 
ironing-board  covers  may  be  fastened  by  thumb  tacks  to 
the  table.  It  makes  the  lessons  where  only  small-  articles 
are  used  for  illustrations  possible  and  at  the  same  time 
practical. 

GROUP  WORK 

A  teacher  may  have  older  students,  and  feel  that  she 
would  prefer  to  use  the  larger  articles  just  as  would  be  found 
in  the  family  wash.  This  necessitates  larger  utensils,  and  as 
space  is  still  a  problem  the  alternative  seems  to  be  group 
work,  three  or  four  washing  at  one  tub,  using  perhaps  one 
wringer  for  the  group  and  one  boiler.  This  work  must  be 
carried  on  as  in  any  group  work,  with  each  student  having  a 
special  part  of  the  whole  process  for  which  she  is  responsible. 
This  can  be  done,  but  can  be  easily  understood  to  be  unsatis- 
factory because  naturally  no  one  person  is  responsible  for  the 
whole  garment,  and  no  one  is  likely  to  acknowledge  careless 
washing  or  ironing.  If  the  washing  of  one  week  waits  over 
to  be  the  ironing  for  the  next  week,  as  is  usually  found  neces- 
sary, perhaps  the  room  space,  the  time  of  the  lesson  and 
the  thought  of  keeping  the  students  busy  can  be  best  brought 
about  by  having  half  iron  and  half  wash  the  first  part  of 
the  lesson.  As  each  group  finishes  the  process  they  were 
doing  first,  they  may  go  directly  to  the  second. 


180  Laundering. 

Often  in  planning  a  building,  or  where  room  for  a  laundry 
is  being  sought,  it  may  be  possible  to  use  a  part  of  the 
basement ;  or,  from  experience,  the  upper  part  of  the  school 
(the  attic  of  the  home)  will  make  a  practical  laundry, 
because  this  often  is  unused  space,  and  in  a  school  is  usually 
well  lighted  and  can  be  well  ventilated.  In  this  kind  of  a 
room  it  would  be  possible  to  put  several  stationary  tubs, 
one  or  two  benches  with  several  portable  tubs,  a  small 
laundry  stove,  some  small  machines,  hand  driven  if  neces- 
sary ;  and  with  all  the  other  usual  accessories  such  as  baskets 
and  hampers,  various  irons  and  sprinklers,  there  is  really 
no  part  of  the  process  that  cannot  be  easily  and  well  done. 
Be  sure  that  in  either  case  the  floor  is  so  finished  as  always  to 
represent  a  dry,  clean  laundry. 

Where  a  special  room  for  the  laundry  is  planned  in  the 
building,  the  first  thought  for  the  teacher  is  what  sized  class 
can  be  comfortably  handled,  and  it  will  be  found  imprac- 
tical to  attempt  as  large  a  group  in  laundry  as  in  cookery. 
Sixteen  to  twenty  is  a  much  better  number  than  twenty- 
five  or  thirty.  The  work,  unlike  cooking,  can  rarely  be 
carried  on  on  exactly  the  same  time  for  each  student,  because 
the  stains  of  some  garments  take  longer  to  remove  than 
others,  or  the  ironing  of  certain  garments  may  be  more 
complicated,  and  hence  take  longer.  All  this  irregularity 
increases  the  work  of  supervision,  because  of  the  uneven 
stages  of  the  class-room  work,  and  because,  with  the 
laundry,  the  students  usually  furnish  their  own  working 
material,  which  if  lost  would  often  mean  a  great  sacrifice. 
Two  students  can  do  good  work  at  one  tub,  even  though 
they  each  have  a  garment.  Often,  for  the  sake  of  greater 
variety,  the  two  students  in  the  group  may  have  different 
garments;  but  for  the  sake  of  the  point  of  the  lesson,  both 
garments  should  represent  the  same  principle. 


Methods.  181 

t 

INDIVIDUAL  WORK 

Individual  work  requires  a  much  larger  expenditure  of 
money,  because  of  the  many  pieces  of  equipment.  It  is 
the  best  work  because  each  student  may  be  held  responsible 
for  her  own  efforts  and  results.  Individual  work  can  be 
carried  on  by  having  each  girl  at  a  tub,  both  girls  washing 
in  one  tub  and  rinsing  in  the  other,  and  by  this  alternat- 
ing of  tubs,  much  time  is  saved.  A  steam  valve  may  be 
attached  to  every  other  tub,  which  permits  live  steam  to 
enter  the  tub,  thus  converting  it  quickly  and  easily,  with  less 
danger  than  lifting  the  boiler,  into  a  clothes  boiler.  This 
steam  valve  should  be  like  an  arm  that  reaches  down  into 
the  bottom  of  the  tub,  and  may  be  lifted  arm  fashion  up 
out  of  the  way  when  not  needed.  It  is  possible  with  indi- 
vidual tubs  to  show  a  good  variety  of  equipment,  as  the 
soap  dishes,  some  expensive  and  some  cheap;  the  wash- 
boards, wringers  and  clothes  sticks  may  represent  different 
makes;  the  individual  work  also  makes  possible  different 
kinds  of  starch  and  blues  used  in  the  same  lesson,  students 
making  comparison  as  they  work  side  by  side.  For  arrange- 
ment of  tubs,  the  aisle  between  two  double  rows  will  be  found 
very  easy  to  supervise,  because  by  standing  at  the  head  of  the 
aisle,  the  teacher  may  direct  two  rows  or  even  four  rows  of 
students.  This  placing  of  the  tubs  is  done  by  standing  the 
tubs  back  to  back,  and  if  the  classes  or  the  ages  of  the  stu- 
dents vary  to  such  an  extent  that  two  heights  of  tubs  should 
be  considered,  one  row  of  tubs  may  be  set  lower  than  the 
other  row.  This  is  quite  necessary  for  grammar  school 
children  and  for  those  students  in  first-year  high  school. 
For  training  schools  and  colleges  it  will  hardly  be  necessary 
to  have  the  row  of  low-set  tubs ;  the  occasional  short  student 
may  have  a  small  platform  upon  which  to  stand. 

The  hollow-square  arrangement  is  not  so  satisfactory  for 


182  Laundering. 

laundry  classes  as  for  cooking  classes.  The  teacher  may 
walk  on  the  inside  of  the  hollow  square  and  demonstrate  how 
to  stir  or  measure,  but  to  show  a  student  how  to  wash  or  to 
wring  a  garment,  the  arrangement  is  not  so  satisfactory. 
The  plumbing  is  in  the  way  of  the  wash-boards,  so  the 
instructor  must  walk  out  and  around  in  order  to  assist  the 
student. 

Ironing  boards  or  tables  should  be  as  nearly  individual  as 
possible.  For  students  who  are  training  to  teach,  it  would 
seem  advisable  to  have  variety  in  equipment,  as  its  use  will 
better  prepare  them  for  various  localities  and  types  of 
work.  For  example,  choose  a  plain  skirt-board,  to  rest  on 
two  chairs,  one  with  folding  standard  and  one  with  its  own 
burner  and  sleeveboard  costing  about  $15  to  $20.  Such  a 
board  is  most  suitable  for  laboratory,  but  is  too  expensive 
to  use  with  classes  representing  poorer  homes. 

In  this  day  when  so  many  machines  and  devices  are  used, 
it  would  be  wise  to  choose  washing  machines  that  represent 
different  principles,  as  well  as  to  have  machines  that  may 
be  of  service  in  rural  homes  where  perhaps  electricity  is  not 
possible.  Oftentimes  the  manufacturers  are  glad  to  loan 
the  machines  for  the  instruction  of  the  class,  or  they  may 
send  demonstrators  to  show  the  working  of  the  machine 
or  device.  This  is  a  co-operation  between  manufacturer 
and  teacher  which  can  be  of  service  to  both. 

If  the  plan  is  to  wash  the  clothes  in  one  lesson  and  iron 
the  next,  the  rough  dry  clothes  will  have  to  be  stored  for 
over  night  or  more  often  for  one  week.  Washable  bags,  each 
marked  with  the  student's  name,  or  individual  lockers,  about 
a  cubic  foot  in  size,  each  with  its  own  key,  will  be  found  the 
most  convenient,  as  well  as  the  safest  way  to  keep  the 
clothes,  the  student  being  held  responsible  for  her  own 
locker.  The  instructor  has  a  master  key,  so  that  supervision 


Methods.  183 

is  possible.  These  lockers  should  be  ventilated  by  wire 
netting  in  the  door. 

A  two-shelved  supply  table  on  a  wheeled  truck  will  be 
found  of  the  greatest  value  for  the  collecting  and  replacing 
of  supplies  and  small  equipment. 

The  storage  of  equipment  should  be  given  great  considera- 
tion on  the  part  of  the  teacher.  The  most  satisfactory  way 
will  be  literally  to  build  the  closet  around  the  equipment. 
Folding  skirt  boards  may  be  stood  on  end  in  a  'closet  built 
especially  for  them.  In  this  same  closet  above  the  ironing 
boards  there  may  be  two  shelves  for  sleeve  boards.  A  closet 
may  be  shelved  so  that  wash-boards  may  stand  on  the 
shelves  book  fashion.  The  same  sized  closet  that  takes  the 
skirt  boards  and  sleeve  boards  will  hold  three  tiers  of  wash- 
boards. It  is  best  that  all  this  equipment  be  kept  in  closed 
closets  so  that  it  will  be  clean  and  ready  for  use.  In  this 
storage  room  there  may  be  tiers  of  drawers,  one  tier  of  deep 
drawers  for  the  storage  of  new  material,  and  a  tier  of  shallower 
drawers  for  ironing-board  covers,  for  ironing  pads  and  iron 
holders. 

From  the  outlines  of  lessons  given  in  this  book  a  teacher 
may  combine  her  lessons  in  any  way  she  wishes,  but  it  should 
be  her  thought  to  combine  various  articles  to  be  washed  to 
illustrate  the  principle  of  the  lesson.  For  instance,  if  there 
must  be  cutting  down  of  work,  because  of  limited  number  of 
lessons  or  shortness  of  hours,  it  would  seem  best  to  thoroughly 
impress  the  fact  that  alkalis  yellow  or  dissolve  wool,  that 
boiling  shrinks  it,  by  performing  these  tests,  or  having  the 
students  do  it  individually  if  possible;  and  then  for  the 
practical  work  use  two  garments  which  represent  the  knitted 
and  woven  type  like  a  shawl  or  a  sweater,  and  a  petticoat 
or  a  shirtwaist.  To  carry  the  principle  further,  one  of  these 
garments  might  be  white  and  the  other  colored.  In  the 


184  Laundering. 

same  way  starching  should  be  taught  by  laying  stress  upon 
the  various  kinds  of  starch,  how  to  make  and  use  the  starch 
paste,  and  then  choose  two  or  three  garments  which  would 
need  different  kinds  of  starching.  For  example,  a  man's 
collar  or  cuff,  stiff  starch;  an  apron  for  medium  starching; 
and,  for  thin  starching,  some  garment  of  sheer  material, 
such  as  organdy,  dimity,  dotted  swiss,  and  the  like. 

To  introduce  various  kinds  of  soaps  and  blues,  a  different 
soap  and  blue  could  be  used  each  lesson,  having  the  students 
make  individual  observation  as  to  the  points  which  are  to 
be  brought  out  later  when  soaps  and  blues  are  used  as  the 
subject  of  a  lesson.  Suggest  looking  for  variety  of  color, 
stickiness,  and  for  odor  of  soap ;  for  blues,  have  them  notice 
their  solubility  and  color  tint.  All  of  these  observations 
make  a  splendid  preparation  for  any  chemical  work  which 
is  to  follow. 

Too  much  time  can  hardly  be  spent  on  stains  and  their 
removal.  To  remove  various  stains  on  different  fabrics  is 
an  excellent  laboratory  lesson  for  work  early  in  the  course. 
It  develops  confidence  for  stain  work  which  is  constantly 
arising.  It  brings  about  a  very  close  correlation  of  chemistry 
of  cleansing  and  chemistry  of  textiles,  and  it  also  brings 
before  the  student  in  a  practical  way  the  economies  of 
stain  or  dirt  removal.  It  is  this  lesson  which  should  be  the 
practical  illustration  of  the  theoretical  work  which  has  pre- 
ceded, concerning  solvents,  absorbents,  detergents  and 
bleaches  as  soil  removers. 

From  the  viewpoint  of  economy,  some  discussion  should 
be  introduced  about  the  comparative  time  required  for  the 
ironing  of  plain  versus  elaborate  garments;  of  the  cost  of 
doing  by  one's  self  as  compared  to  the  washer  woman's 
rates,  and  commercial  versus  home  laundry. 

A  second  problem  where  economics  and  laundry  should  be 


Methods.      .  185 

correlated  is  the  comparison  of  cost  of  machine  and  of  hand 
work  in  the  home. 

The  equipment  may  be  taught  by  having  the  students  go 
to  house-furnishing  stores,  collect  various  advertisements 
from  magazines,  or  perhaps  write  to  manufacturers  for  their 
printed  material.  The  cost  of  equipment  is  clearly  shown, 
and  much  can  be  learned  concerning  variety  of  principles 
of  machines  and  their  general  utility.  For  classes  of  teachers, 
illustrated  card  catalogues  may  be  worked  up,  which  will  be 
of  great  service  in  the  new  field  of  work.  Such  work  also 
assists  in  making  out  the  departmental  budget. 

RURAL  WORK 

The  rural  worker  has  many  possibilities  to  help  relieve 
the  drudgery  which  has  so  long  been  considered  a  part  of 
laundry  work  in  the  rural  home. 

Instead  of  the  old-time  wash-board  method,  simple  and 
effective  hand- washing  machines  might  be  suggested. 
Hand-washing  machines  have  the  great  advantage  of  doing 
a  larger  quantity  of  soiled  clothing  in  a  given  time  than 
could  be  done  if  done  on  a  wash-board.  Instead  of  using 
the  hand  machine,  it  might  be  connected  by  a  belt  to  a 
gasoline  engine.  Many  of  these  engines  are  doing  farm 
work,  so  why  not  apply  two  or  three  hours  a  week  and  help 
the  housewife  ? 

In  homes  where  fuel  is  plentiful,  the  washing  may  be 
done  by  a  washing  device  in  the  boiler.  Start  the  clothes  in 
cold  water  with  soap  and  boil  five  minutes,  rinse,  blue  and 
hang  to  dry.  One  good-sized  boiler  would  take  all  the 
towels,  bedding,  and  some  body  clothes.  Perhaps  nearly 
the  whole  washing  of  a  small  family,  after  the  table  linen  has 
been  washed,  could  be  done  in  this  way.  While  the  boiler  is 
heating  the  housewife  may  be  doing  something  else. 


186  Laundering. 

Any  wash  tub  can  be  piped  to  deliver  soiled  water,  if  by 
no  other  means  than  a  hose  reaching  to  an  outside  drain. 
It  need  not  be  attached  other  days  than  wash  days.  Some 
tubs  have  been  well"  drained  by  boring  a  small  hole  in  the 
side  of  the  house,  through  which  a  hose  is  inserted  from  the 
outside.  This  hose  conducts  the  water  to  the  garden.  It  is 
no  more  work  than  putting  on  a  hose  for  sprinkling  the 
garden.  If  carried  far  enough  away  the  water  will  irrigate 
the  garden. 

After  the  clothes  are  washed,  roll  flat  pieces  down  when 
half  dry  to  save  sprinkling.  In  taking  from  the  line,  fold 
so  there  will  be  fewer  creases  to  need  ironing  out.  For  six 
to  eight  dollars,  a  hand  mangle  can  be  bought,  and  with  it 
one  can  press  all  the  bedding  and  towels,  table  linen,  knitted 
underwear  without  buttons,  and  stockings. 

In  regard  to  teaching  aids  for  the  rural  worker,  methods 
and  general  suggestions  as  found  in  the  previous  chapters 
of  the  laundry  book,  would  apply  alike  to  rural  and  city 
workers.  The  equipment  facilities  are  the  only  differences 
between  the  rural  and  city  problem.  With  the  possibilities 
of  purchasing  by  mail,  even  the  remote  rural  housekeeper 
can  increase  her  working  facilities. 

Some  suggestions  upon  which  rural  teachers  might  lay 
emphasis  are  the  following : 

A  study  of  stains  and  their  removal;  how  to  make 
good  neutral  soap;  to  make  starch  and  use  it  to  better 
advantage. 

Various  helps,  such  as  a  funnel  washer:  substitution 
of  a  home-made  one  by  the  fastening  of  a  tin  funnel  on 
a  shaved-down  broom  handle. 

How  colors  can  be  set ;  how  flannels  can  be  kept  from 
:  shrinking. 

How  to  choose  the  materials  for  the  clothing  to  save 


Methods.  187 

money:  to  show  economy  by  the  much  greater  use  of 
crepe  in  underwear,  night  dresses,  house  dresses  and 
pajamas. 

Greater  saving  in  steps  and  energy  by  the  use  of 
a  better  equipment;  to  teach  saving  by  having  all 
house  furnishings  of  such  material  that  they  may  be 
more  easily  cleaned. 

Such  talks  as  these  would  help  in  institutes  and  grange 
meetings.  As  important  a  topic  as  any  to  the  county  agent, 
is  that  she  study  ways  and  means  to  get  water  in  and  out  of 
the  kitchen,  and  the  tactful  method  by  which  she  may  show 
to  the  farmer  that  a  mechanical  help  in  the  kitchen  for  the 
wife  is  as  good  a  farm  investment  as  a  new  churn. 

SUGGESTIVE  OUTLINES 

The  following  topics  may  help  the  teacher  in  outlining 
her  work. 

The  practical  work  of  the  course  should  be  varied  to  suit 
the  needs  of  the  neighborhood  and  should  be  adapted  to 
the  type  of  school  and  to  the  need  of  students.  The  lesson 
on  dry  cleaning  may  be  omitted  unless  the  teacher  demon- 
strates. If  this  lesson  is  given,  the  fire  laws  of  the  town 
should  be  noted  and  every  precaution  urged. 

The  cost  problem  will  often  come  spontaneously  from  a 
student  appreciating,  for  the  first,  the  physical  stress  of 
work.  Wages,  hours  and  labor  will  almost  always  follow 
in  discussion. 

I.  Reasons  for  the  course:  for  housekeeper;  for  personal 
use — economy,  practice,  cleanliness.  The  laundress,  her 
appearance,  duty,  knowledge  of  purifying  aids,  types  of 
soil,  removal  of  stains,  caution  necessary  in  use  of  chem- 
icals, methods  of  washing  all  garments,  knowledge  of  various 


188  Laundering. 

fabrics  and  the  effect  of  chemicals  on  same.     Spotting  and 
cleansing  reagents  and  solutions  made. 

II.  The  laundry:   cost  and  time  problems  of  commercial 
vs.  home  laundries.     The  home  laundry,  including  the  type 
wall,  floor,  lighting  and  equipment.     The  care  of  the  cloth- 
ing while  waiting  to  be  washed  and  after  ironing.     Prepara- 
tion of  irons  and  boards  for  work. 

III.  Methods  of  laundering:   including  sorting,  removing 
stains,   washing,   rinsing,   bluing,   starching,   tinting,   sprin- 
kling and  ironing.     Water:  kinds,  methods  of  testing  hard- 
ness, purifying,  cleaning  and  softening. 

IV.  Soaps:     kinds,    quality,    adulterants,    making    and 
economical  use  of;    making  soaps,  soap  jellies,  detergents; 
bleaching  fat  and  making  alkali  for  soap  recipe. 

V.  Blue:    solubility,  value,  color,  composition,  use  and 
abuse,  removal  of  over-amount,  the  decomposition  of  blues 
and  iron  deposits  on  clothes. 

VI.  Starch:  kinds — rice,  wheat,  corn — their  relative  value 
for  stiffness   and   color;    testing   starches   by  microscope; 
cooking;  the  use  of  starch  for  glazing  and  making  garment 
less  absorbent.     Recipes  for  making  stiff  starch,  starch  jelly, 
clear  starch,  cold  starch;  effect  of  starch  on  blue. 

VII.  Woolens  in  form  of  flannel;   knitted  and  crocheted 
articles.     The  wool  fiber;    its  reasons  for  shrinkage;    the 
effect  of  friction;   effect  of  change  of  temperature  on  fiber; 
methods  of  washing  to  prevent  shrinking  and  stretching; 
use  of  frames;   recipes  for  flannel  washes. 

VIII.  Embroideries:    care  in  washing  various  colors  and 
kinds ;  method  of  washing,  drying,  and  ironing.     The  effect 
of  salt  and  of  heat  in  preventing  or  promoting  fading.     The 
use  of  extra  padding  on  boards  and  how  pads  may  be  made. 

IX.  Laces:    including  their  washing,  bleaching,  making 
an  ecru  tint,  basting  to  keep  shape;  pinning  as  a  substitute 


Methods.  189 

for  ironing.  Lingerie  material,  as  jabots,  collars,  ties, 
stocks,  embroidered  waists;  illustrate  both  embroidery  and 
lace. 

X.  Colored  goods:  including  ginghams,  prints,  cretonnes 
and  stockings;  the  use  of  salt  or  acid;  effect  of  heat  and 
long  soaking  for  fading;  brightening  of  colors  by  salt  or 
acid  rinse,  by  tinting  starch  for  plain  colors;  hanging  in 
sun;  use  of  starch  or  bran  water  in  place  of  soap;  use  of 
starch  substitutes  for  blacks  or  browns. 

XL  Dry  cleaning:  meaning  of  term;  wet  cleaning  vs. 
dry;  care  in  use,  storing  and  buying  of  gasoline;  fire  laws; 
necessity  of  great  care  in  working  away  from  all  fire; 
working  in  open  air;  gasoline  used  as  water  as  regards 
quantity  and  rinsing;  use  of  cloth  and  brush;  use  of  gaso- 
line as  a  moth  or  vermin  exterminator;  removal  of  odor 
by  warmth. 

XII.  Disinfecting    clothing    by    bichloride    of    mercury, 
Platt's  Chloride,  formaldehyde,  burning  sulphur,  utensils  to 
use;    care  in  preparation  and  isolation  from  the  household. 

XIII.  Bleaching:   its  use  and  abuse;   methods,  materials 
used ;  destroying  chemical  action  after  bleaching  is  complete. 

LESSON  OUTLINE  No.  I 
Sixth  Grade,  Seventh  Grade,  or  Eighth  Grade 

Time:  4  lessons,  1$  hours  each. 

Lesson  1. 

Discussion  on  clean  clothes. 
Why  necessary. 
How  obtained. 
Effect  of  boiling, 
sunning, 
ironing. 


190  Laundering. 

Discussion  on  soap. 
Why  and  how  it  cleans. 
How  to  economize  its  use. 
Practical  work:  Make  soap  from  kitchen  grease. 

Make  soap  solution  from  scraps  of  left-over  soap. 
Remove  stains:  coffee,  egg,  cocoa,  grease. 

Lesson  2. 

Discussion  on  fibers. 

Practical  work:  Wash  towels  or  napkins  (alternate  these  for  lesson 
in  folding). 

Lesson  3. 

Discussion  on  starch  and  starching. 
Practical  work:  Iron  towel  or  napkin. 

Wash  and  starch  apron  or  petticoat  (alternate). 

Lesson  4. 

Discussion  on  wool  fiber. 

Practical  work:  Iron  petticoat  or  apron. 

Wash  woolen  garment,  mittens,  or 
gloves,  or 
stockings,  or 
sweater  for  class. 


LESSON  OUTLINE  No.  II 

6  lessons,  3  hours  each. 
Lesson  1. 

Methods  of  washing. 

Making  solutions. 

Stains — their  removal. 

Wash  tablecloth;  fringed  napkins ;  napkin. 

Lesson  2. 

Iron  unstarched  goods. 
Wash  starched  goods. 
Make  starch. 
Wash  one  of  three  pieces:  Corset  cover,  apron,  skirt. 


Methods.  191 


Lesson  3. 

Iron  starched  goods. 
Wash  tailored  shirtwaist ;  collars. 

Lesson  4. 

Iron  tailored  waist;  collars. 
Wash  knitted  or  crocheted  piece. 

Lesson  5. 

Wash  lingerie  waist. 
Clear  starching. 
Wash  embroidery;  lace. 
Finish  lesson  of  day. 

Lesson  6. 

Wash  flannels;  colored  goods. 
Finish  flannels;  colored  goods. 

LESSON  OUTLINE  No.  Ill 

16  lessons,  3  hours  each. 

One-third  lectures  and  two-thirds  practical  work. 
Lesson  1. 
Lecture:  General  outline. 

Study.     Prepare  equipment. 

Lesson  2. 

Lecture:  History  of  development  of  laundry. 

Foreign  methods.     Stereopticon  lectures. 
Reasons  for  laundry. 

Lesson  3. 

Lecture:  Cleansing  reagents. 

Practical  work:  Making  cleansing  solutions. 

Lesson  4. 

Lecture:  Effect  of  chemicals  on  fibers. 

Stains.    Removal. 
Practical  work:  Removal  of  stains. 


192  Laundering. 

Lesson  5. 

Lecture:  Equipment,  various  machines. 
Practical  work:  Stains  and  spotting. 


Lesson  6. 

Lecture  :  Methods  of  washing. 
Practical  work:  Washing  table  linen,  bed  linen. 

Lesson  7. 

Lecture:  Methods  of  washing  reviewed. 

Starch.  Starching. 

Practical  work:  Washing  drawers,  corset  covers. 
Ironing  table  linen,  bed  linen. 

Lesson  8. 

Lecture:  Methods  of  ironing  starched  clothes. 

Irons. 

Practical  work:  Washing  nightgowns,  aprons. 
Ironing  drawers,  corset  covers. 

Lesson  9. 

Lecture:  Soap.    Analysis. 
Practical  work:  Wash  petticoat. 

Iron  nightgown,  apron. 

Lesson  10. 

Visit  commercial  laundry. 

Lesson  11. 

Lecture:  Stiff  starching. 
Practical  work:  Wash  tailored  waist,  lingerie. 
Iron  petticoat. 

Lesson  12. 

Lecture:  Blues.    Analysis. 

Practical  work:  Clear  starch  lingerie  waist. 


Methods.  193 


Lesson  13. 

Lecture:  Wool,  silk  fibers. 
Practical  work:  Wash  woolen, 
knitted, 
woven. 
Press  garments  in  lesson. 


Lesson  14. 

Lecture:  Washing  laces,  colored  clothes. 

Practical  work:  Wash  and  finish  garments  of  the  lesson. 

Lesson  15. 
Special  problems,  representing  review. 

Lesson  16. 

Cleaning  laundry  eqiiipment. 
Review. 
Examination. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 

I.  METHODS — FOREIGN. 

"Daily  Life  in  Italy. "  Journal  of  Home  Economics,  Febru- 
ary, 1911. 

"Along  French  By-Ways."     Clifton  Johnson. 

"Open  Air  Wash  Days."     The  Craftsman,  June,  1906. 

"Modem  Sanitation. "  Standard  Mfg.  Co.,  Pittsburgh,  Pa. 
January,  June,  1909;  May,  October,  1910;  February, 
June,  1912. 

II.  CHEMISTRY. 

"Dictionary  of  Applied  Chemistry,"  Vol.  IV.     Thorpe. 
"International  Chemical  Encyclopedia." 
"The  Science  of  Laundry  Work. "     Margaret  C.  Rankin. 
1 '  Household  Chemistry. ' '    Vulte"  and  Goodell. 
"Removal  of  Stains  from  Clothing  and  Other  Textiles." 
Farmers'  Bulletin  861,  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture. 
•'Soap  Manufacture."    W.  L.  Gadd. 

III.  TEXTILES. 

"Methods  of  Textile  Chemistry."     Frederick  Dannerth. 
"Textile  Fibres."     J.  Merritt  Matthews.     Woolman  and 

McGowan. 

Hints  on  "Choosing  Textiles."     Cornell  Reading  Course. 
"  Cottons  and  Linens. "    E.  B.  Thompson. 

IV.  TEXT-BOOKS. 

"The  Art  of  Laundry  Work. "    Margaret  C.  Rankin. 
•'The  Science  of  Laundry  Work."     Margaret  C.  Rankin. 
"  Laundry  Work. "     Jum'ata  Sheppard. 
"Approved  Methods  for  Home  Laundering. "     Mary  Vail. 

Proctor  and  Gamble,  Cincinnati,  Ohio. 
"  Dry  Cleaning,  Scouring  and  Dyeing. "    William  T.  Brannt. 
"Foods  and  Household  Management. "     Kinne  and  Cooley. 
"Laundry  Work. "     E.  L.  M^rsh. 

"The  Laundry."     Flora  Rose.     Cornell  Reading  Course. 
"Simple    Directions   for   the    Laundress."      Caroline    R. 

Wadhams. 

"A  Guide  to  Laundry  Work. "     Mary  D.  Chambers. 
4 '  Handbook  of  Cleaning. ' '    Sara  McLeod. 
"The  Home  and  The  Family."     Kinne  and  Cooley. 
(194) 


Bibliography.  195 

V.  EQUIPMENT — DOMESTIC. 

"Equipment  for  Teaching  Domestic  Science/'  Chap.  IV. 
Helen  Kinne. 

"Machinery  for  Women. "  L.  R.  Balderston  in  Good  House- 
keeping, October,  1913. 

"Cost  of  a  Home  Laundry. "  E.  R.  Peyser  in  Good  House- 
keeping, February,  1912. 

VI.  EQUIPMENT — INSTITUTIONAL. 

"Equipment  for  the  Small  Institutional  Laundry."  Clara 
O.  Noyes,  Journal  of  Home  Economics,  November,  1910. 

' '  The  Launderer . "  D .  H .  B  en j  amin.  Starchroom  Pub .  Co . , 
Cincinnati,  Ohio. 

VII.  MARKING. 

"Methods  of  Marking  Linen  for  Home  and  Institution. "  L. 
A.  Parker  in  Household  Arts  Review,  Teachers  College, 
New  York,  November,  1910. 

VIII.  MANAGEMENT  OF  INSTITUTIONS. 

"Laundry  Accounts."     L.  J.  Liversey. 

"The  Small  Hospital  Laundry. "     Clara  Noyes  in  American 

Journal  of  Nursing,  Volume  VI. 
"Municipal  Laundry  Problem."     D.  B.  Armstrong,  M.D., 

Journal  of  Home  Economics,  July,  1916. 

IX.  WAGES. 

' '  Women  Laundry  Workers  in  New  York. "  S.  A.  Clark  and 
E.  Wyatt,  in  McClure's  Magazine,  February,  1911. 

"Report  on  Condition  of  Women  and  Children  Wage-Earners 
in  U.  S. "  Charles  P.  Neill,  Com.  of  Labor,  in  Employ- 
ment of  Women  in  Laundries,  Vol.  XII. 

X.  MAGAZINES. 

Suds.    Syracuse  Chemical  Company. 
American  Laundry  Journal,  Troy,  N.  Y. 
Starch  Room  Laundry  Journal,  Cincinnati,  Ohio. 
American  Outlook.     American  Laundry  Machinery  Co. 
Good  Housekeeping.     September,  November,  and  January, 
1916. 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

Absorbents 18 

Acetic  acid 64 

Adulteration  of  fabrics 14 

Agents  for  washing 38 

Alcohol.  v 64 

Alcohol  irons 148 

Alum 59 

America,  municipal  laundries , 177 

Ammonia 42 

Aniline  blue 54,  56,  161 

Animal  fibers 11 

Silk. 12 

Wool 11 

Aprons 83,  84 

Arrangement  of  laboratories 181 

Bed  linen 78 

Benzine 63 

Bibliography 194 

Bichloride  of  mercury 114 

Blankets,  to  wash , 95 

Bleaches 20 

Ammonia 21 

Borax 21 

Chloride  of  lime 22 

Hydrogen  peroxide 22 

Hydrosulphite  of  soda 22 

Oxalic  acid * 22 

Potasium  permanganate 22 

Sulphur 21 

Sunshine 21 

Bleaching  woolens 97 

laces 1 04 

(197) 


198  Laundering. 

PAGE 

Blues,  effect  of 57 

kinds 53 

properties  of . . . ; 55 

solubility 55 

to  make 55 

to  remove. .* .  * . .  •• 57 

to  test •. 57 

to  tint 57 

to  use . . . . » 56 

Blues  and  bluing 52 

Bluing 71 

Body  linen,  white 80 

Boiling  of  body  linen 80 

table  linen 75 

Care  of  machinery 155 

Caustic  potash 60 

Chamois  and  doe-skin  gloves 102 

Chemical  history 169 

Chiffon  and  chiffon  cloth 110 

Chloride  of  lime 22 

Chloroform . 62 

'Citric  acid 64 

Classification  of  stains 16 

Cleaning,  dry 25,  63,  96,  116 

gold  and  silver  lace 107 

lace  yokes  and  sleeves 106 

velvet 101 

woolens 96 

Cleansing  agents 59 

Cleansing,  methods  of ! 16 

Clear  starching ^ 50 

Clothes  driers .  149 

sprinklers 150 

hampers  and  baskets 150 

pins 151 

Clothing,  fumigation  and  disinfection 112 

Clothing,  gloss  removed Ill 


Index.  199 

PAGE 

Cold  starch 51,  72 

Collars  and  cuffs 50, 72, 88 

Colored  clothes 90 

hanging . : 92 

ironing 92 

soap  substitutes  for 93 

stains 91 

starch  substitute 93 

starching 92 

to  set  colors 90 

washing 91 

Colored  woolens,  washing 98 

Community  laundries ' 175 

America 177 

England ; 175 

France 175 

Germany. ' 175 

Italy : 176 

Switzerland 175 

Corduroy,  white,  washing 101 

Corset  covers,  folding  of 81 

Corsets 108 

Cotton  fibers 13 

Counting  clothes 67 

Courses  in  laundry 189 

Curtain  stretchers 152 

Detergents, ... 19,  98 

Detergent  recipe 46 

Diapers 89 

Disinfection 112 

Down  quilts . . .  • 109 

Drawers 83,  84,  86 

Drawn  work 107 

Dresses 83, 84 

Dress  shields '. 107 

Dry  cleaning 25,  63,  96,  116 

danger 116 

object 116 


200  Laundering. 

PAGE 

Dry  cleaning,  to  use 117 

Drier 149 

Drying 72 

Drying  woolens : 95 

Economic  reasons  for  laundering 165 

Effect  of  blue 57 

Elastic  goods •. 107 

Electric  irons 146 

Embroidered  centerpieces 78 

Embroidery,  ironing  of 84 

England,  municipal  laundries 175 

Equipment / . . . .  121 

clothes  driers 149 

clothes  hampers  and  baskets 150 

clothes  pins 15 1 

clothes  sprinklers 150 

curtain  stretchers 152 

for  home  laundry 121 

for  laboratories 178 

irons 145 

iron  holders 151 

ironing  boards 144 

machines,  washing 129 

mangles 141 

pieces  of  equipment 127 

starching  outfit 152 

stoves 152 

testing  outfit 152 

wash  tubs 139 

wringers 140 

Equipment  for  stains 23 

Equipment  list 121 

Equipment  for  teachers 182 

lockers .'....  182 

storage  closet 183 

wheeled  truck ' 183 

Ether ". 62 

Extractors,  to  load .  .                                                       159 


Index.  201 

PAGE 

Fabrics 11 

Animal 11 

Mixed 14 

Vegetable 13 

Feathers  from  hats 108 

Folding 74 

Folding  of  bed  linen 79 

body  linen 84 

chemise 82 

corset  cover , . .  81 

drawers 86 

napkins . . . 77 

nightdress 85 

pillow  slips 79 

sheets 79 

shirts 87 

table  linen 76 

towel 8S 

Formalin 114 

Formulas,  wash, 161 

France,  washing  in 172 

France,  municipal  laundries 175 

Fumigation 112 

Gas  irons 147 

Gasoline 63 

General  laundry,  equipment 121 

Germany,  municipal  laundries , .  175 

Germany,  washing  in 173 

Gloss  removed  from  clothing Ill 

Gloves,  chamois  and  doe-skin,  washing 102 

Gold  and  silver  lace 107 

Gum  arabic  water 52 

Hand  washers 1 34 

Handkerchiefs,  ironing  of 88 

Hanging 72 

aprons 83 

bed  linen .  .  79 


202  Laundering. 

Hanging—  PAGE 

colored  clothes 92 

corset  covers. 83 

drawers 83 

dress 83 

nightdress . 83 

skirt ' 83 

table  linen 77 

waist ... 83 

Heavy  starching 50 

History,  chemical . . . . 169 

mechanical - 166 

Holland,  washing  in 173 

Home  laundry  equipment 121 

Hydrochloric  acid v 66 

Hydrogen  peroxide ^ 22 

Hydrosulphite  of  soda 22 

Imitation  fibers 15 

Indigo 53 

Inorganic  stains 16 

Institutional  machinery 153 

Irons 145 

alcohol 148 

electric 146 

gas '..'.; 147 

care  of  irons '.  '. '. ......  148 

cost  of  irons 148 

to  choose  an  iron 148 

Iron  holders 151 

Ironing 73 

Ironing  boards 144 

Ironing  of  aprons • .. . 84 

bed  linen. . . . . " 79 

collars  and  cuffs 88 

colored  clothes 92 

corset  covers 84 

drawers 84 

embroidered  centerpieces 78 


Index.  203 


PAGE 

Ironing  of  embroidery 84 

handkerchiefs . 88 

nightdress 84 

shirts 88 

silks 100 

skirts , .  84 

table  linen 77 

towels. 88 

waists k 88 

woolens 98 

Italy,  municipal  laundries 176 

Javelle  water. . . . •. . . . . 26,  104 

Kerosene 61 

Kinds  of  blues 53 

Kinds  of  soap 40 

Kinds  of  starch 47 

Knitted  underwear,  washing 89 

Lace  yokes  and  sleeves 106 

Laces 103 

bleaching 104 

pinning . . 104 

stains ......  1 03 

washing , 103 

Laundering,  reasons  for 165 

Laundry  courses,  outlines  of 189 

Laundry  outlines  for  teachers 187 

Linen  fibers 14 

Loading  extractors :..........:;  v \ ...  159 

Lockers .......:......;:...:..  182 

kysoland  creoline : .............:..  114 

Machinery,  institutional 153 

Magnesium 60 

Making  soap ... ..:...... 44 

Mangles '. 141 

Marking  clothes .• . , 67 

Mechanical  history >.  ...•,,, .... ...... . .  166 


204  Laundering. 

PAGE 

Mending  clothes 67 

Method,  foreign 172 

primitive 166 

Method  of  removing  stains 25 

washing  silks 100 

woolens 95 

Methods  of  cleansing 16 

Mixed  fabrics 14 

Moulding  soap 44 

Municipal  laundries 175 

America 177 

England 175 

France 175 

Germany 1 75 

Italy 176 

Switzerland 175 

Neckties,  washing 1 10 

Nightdress 83,  84,  85 

Normandy,  washing  in 173 

Norway,  washing  in t 174 

Object  of  dry  cleaning 25, 1 16 

Organic  stains 16 

Outlines  for  laundry  courses 189 

Overalls  washed Ill 

Oxalic  acid 22,  26,  65 

Paraffin 63 

Pillows 108 

Pinning  lace 104 

Plumes  (or  feathers) 108 

Potassium  permanganate 22,  26,  60,  104 

Preparation  of  the  wash 67 

Primitive  methods 166 

Process  of  washing  all  white  clothes 69 

Prussian  blue 54 

Public  laundries            . 175 


Index.  205 

PAGE 

Quality  of  soap 41 

Rain  coats,  washing 109 

Reasons  for  laundering 165 

Recipes: 

aniline  blue 56 

blanket  wash 45,  97 

bran  water ' 93 

detergent 46,  98 

gum  arabic  water 52 

Javelle  water 26 

oxalic  acid 26 

potassium  permanganate 26 

soap 44 

soap  bark. 93,  99 

soap  solution 45,  98,  160 

starch 52,  83 

starch  water 93 

Removal  of  stains '. 27-37 

from  wool 91 

Ribbons 100 

Rinsing 70 

Rinsing  of  body  linen 80 

table  linen 75 

Rules  for  removing  stains 25 

Rural  work 185 

Sanitary  reasons  for  laundering 1 65 

Setting  color 90 

Shirts 86,  88 

Silk 100 

Silk  fibers 12 

Silks,  method  of  washing 100 

Small  washers 134 

Soaking  clothes 69 

Soaking  of  bed  linen 78 

body  linen 80 

table  linen . .                                  . . .  .  > 75 


206  Laundering. 

PAGE 

Soap 39 

for  blankets 45 

kinds  of 40 

Soap  making 44 

moulding 44 

quality  of 41 

recipes 45,  46 

soda  solution  for  soap  making 43 

solution ....... 160 

solution  for  cleaning  woolens 97 

storage 45 

substitutes 46 

substitutes  for  colored  clothes. 93 

weight  substances 42 

Solubility  of  blues '. 55 

starch 48 

Solvents 18 

Sorting  clothes 68 

Special  cleansing V 1 03 

Sprinkling 73 

body  linen 83 

table  linen 77 

Stains 23 

colored  clothes 1 04 

laces 103 

removal  of 27-37 

rules  for  removal 25 

Starch. '. 46 

Accessories 51 

Clear  starching 50 

Cold  starching f 51 

Heavy  starching 50 

Kinds  of 47 

Recipes 52 

Starch  grains 48 

Substitutes '. 51 

Tinting 52 

To  make 48 

To  starch..                                                                         49 


Index.  207 

Starch—  PAGE 

To  use 49 

Uncooked 51 

Starching 46,  71 

Starching  of  aprons 83 

body  linen 83 

collars  and  cuffs 50,  72 

colored  clothes 92 

corset  covers 83 

drawers 83 

dresses 83 

nightdress 83 

shirts 50 

Starching  outfit 152' 

Stockings,  washing 89 

Storage  closet '. 183 

Stoves '. 152 

Substitutes  for  starch 51 

Suggestions  for  teachers 177 

Sulphur 21 

Sunshine ......  21 

Switzerland,  municipal  laundries 175 

Switzerland,  washing  in :  174 

Table  linen ; 75 

Teachers,  suggestions  for ' 177 

Teaching  outlines 187 

Testing  outfit 152 

Tinting  starch 52 

To  bleach 20 

To  choose  an  iron 148 

To  make  blues 55 

To  make  soap 44 

To  make  soap  solution : 45 

To  make  starch 48 

To  operate  machines 137 

To  remove  bluing 57 

To  remove  polish  from  collars 88 

To  remove  stains  from  wool 91 


208  Laundering. 


PAGE 

To  remove  stains  without  water 25 

To  set  color,  colored  clothes 90 

To  starch 49 

To  steam  velvet 101 

To  test  blue 57 

To  tint  with  blue 57 

To  use  blues 56 

To  use  starch 49 

Towels 88 

Turpentine 62 

Ultramarine  blue 54 

Uncooked  starch 51 

Vegetable  fibers 13 

Veils,  washing 109 

Velvet 101 

Velvet  collars,  washing 102 

Velveteen,  washing 101 

Voile 110 

Waists 83,  88 

Wash  tubs. 139 

Washers,  care  of 158 

Washing 69 

Washing  agents 28 

Washing  formulas 161 

Washing  in  France 172 

Germany 1 73 

Holland 173 

Normandy 173 

Norway 174 

Switzerland 174 

Washing  machines 129 

capacity 136 

cost  of 138 

materials 136 

small  or  hand  washers 134 

to  operate 137 

to  set  up 137 


Index.  209 


PAGE 

Washing  of  bed  linen 78 

body  linen,  white 80 

chamois  and  doe-skin  gloves 1 02 

chiffon  and  chiffon  cloth 110 

colored  clothes 91 

colored  silks 100 

corsets 1 08 

down  quilts 109 

drawn  work 1 07 

dress  shields 107 

elastic  goods 107 

embroidered  centerpieces 78 

feathers  from  hats 1 08 

knitted  underwear 89 

lace  yoke  and  sleeves 106 

laces 103 

neckties . . . . 110 

overalls Ill 

pillows 108 

rain  coats 109 

ribbons 100 

silk 100 

stockings 89 

table  linen 75 

veils 109 

velvet 101 

velvet  collars 1 02 

velveteen 101 

voile v. 110 

white  corduroy 101 

woolens 95 

woolens,  colored 98 

Washing,  preparation  for 67 

counting 67 

marking 67 

mending 67 

sorting 68 

process  of 69 

Washing  soda 61 


210  Laundering. 

PAGE 

Water 38 

Waxes 65 

Weight  substances  in  soap 42 

Wheeled  truck 183 

White  clothes,  process  of  washing 69 

White  corduroy 101 

Wool  fibers. 11 

Woolens 94 

Wringers 140 


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